Customizing a J Frame?

C

Cesar

Inactive
I currently have a S&W J-frame in .38 (5 shot). I forget the designation but it has a concealed hammer (not shrouded) and as such is DAO. What if anything should I or can I do to it to make it shoot better and who are the preferred gunsmiths for the j-frame if any?

Also, do you guys prefer this model over say the one with the exposed hammer. I saw such a revolver with a bobbed hammer AND magnaport. Isn't having porting done on such a small pistol, especially one that is for S/D and probably shot in unusual positions a liability? Thanks for any input.
 
J-frame...

It sounds like you have one of the Centennial models (concealed hammer DAO).

I have the 649 (the "humpback" model)which has a shroud over the hammer, but still allows thumbcocking.

When you decide what you want to do to the J-frame revolvers, you must remember the mission for which they are intended. They are guns which are meant to be carried concealed (and they're great for that!!), to be shot enough to maintain muscle memory in combat usage and to be used for personal defense at close range. Yes, I know we have a lot of shooters here at TFL who claim that they can shoot tin cans at 100 meters with their J-frame and that's fine for exhibition, but that's not what the gun is for. The J-frames are for down-and-dirty, close range shooting from contact distance out to about 15 meters.

That said, anything you do to modify the J-frame which detracts from its (or your) basic mission is a modification which has potentially negative effects. For example, my wife also has a 649 and she has larger, longer grips on it. This makes it impractical as a carry gun, because the larger grips make it harder to conceal. However, since she does not have a carry permit (welcome to California), she does not carry the revolver and she uses it primarily as a home defense handgun. The larger grips coupled with the 2" barrel make the revolver easier for her to shoot (and she is a true dead-eye with that gun, thank you) and also makes it harder for a bad guy to lever the gun out of her hand, although if a bad guy tried it, he would be multiply perforated before he got a hand on that gun.

My 649, on the other hand, is carried primarily as an off-duty gun which resides in the waistband, the ankle holster or occasionally in a fanny pack. It wears the small rubber "boot grips" to aid in concealment.

Since I am a firm believer that DA revolvers should be shot DA-only in combat and that cocking revolvers into SA mode is asking for trouble (pursuant to advice from Massad Ayoob), I had Bill Davis Gunsmithing here in the Sacramento area render both guns DAO by removing the SA notch. I also had BDG work over the internal smoothness of the guns, but specifically asked the 'smith NOT to lighten or alter any of the factory springs. I also have a spring clip fixed to the right side of my revolver which allows me to carry the gun by clipping the clip over my belt and tucking the gun inside the waistband.

Those are the only modifications. They are specific based on the intended mission of the gun. I recommend that you carefully evaluate how you intend to use your J-frame and then be judicious on how you customize it, being careful to enhance it only to help you "meet the mission" and no more. The J-frames are pretty good guns without any mods at all.

Best of luck. I really like my 649. It's my "grab it and go" gun.
 
Oh yeah...

I forgot. Bill Davis Gunsmithing is now out of business, but there are many, many good gunsmiths out there who do a good job on S&W revolvers, including J-frames. You might want to check with the armorer for your local PD/SO, because at some point in the not-so-distant past, it is likely that they carried revolvers and one or more of the older, more well-established gunsmiths in your area worked on their guns and can still do it for you.

Contrary to popular opinion, round guns ain't dead and in my circle, the coppers who use revolvers tend to be better shots and better tactical thinkers. JMHO.
 
The most effective thing you can do to it is shoot a a few thousand rounds through it. ONE ROUND at a time. It will smooth out and you will become very proficient with it. Each shot should be an entity in itself. Striving for sight picture and smoothness. With practice will come accuracy and speed.

Sam
 
One of my J-frames is a "custom" gun, having received a compensator at the factory. All I added was a good set of boot grips and a trigger job by a good 'smith. The result is a very respectable combat handgun, and I don't feel underarmed when I carry it. The porting makes virtually no difference in perceived muzzle flash in such a short tube anyway, so I don't see any liability issues.

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I carry an 042 about 99% of the time. It, too, is the hammerless version.

I don't think much of porting on a small defensive gun. I feel that it's too much of a liability if you have to shoot from a high retention position. You could end up with an eye/face full of debris.
 
Try different ammo.

I was shooting big groups with my j-frame .38 using Winchester JSP, or Winchester LSWCHP.

When I bought some Federal Hydra-Shoks I shot a nice group.

Until then I was thinking about selling it.
Now I'm keeping it.:D
 
Thanks everyone!

I really appreciate the input. The j frame model 36 on guns america is still calling my name even though I already have the airweight. A meltdown job was done on it and da_mn it, it just looks so good I think I'll have to buy it. What do you guys think about bobbed hammers versus shrouded or concealed?

PS: Anyone interested in a rarely fired blued j frame .38 airweight? Has box and papers.
 
I have carried, used and enjoyed 36s for over 40 years. Stock and bobbed n buffed. Accurate, durable, concealable, reliable, fun guns.

Sam
 
Modifications? Three come to mind:

1. Plastic red ramp insert in front sight to help alleviate stainless on satinless sight picture

2. Trigger job, NOT a spring kit!

3. Maybe Crimson Trace laser grips

As previously stated, the beauty of the 042 S&W series is its weight, size, and simplicity. IMHO anything that detaracts from this (larger grips, funky sights, porting, etc.) defeats the very purpose of carrying it.
 
gumshoe4 wrote:
The larger grips coupled with the 2" barrel make the revolver easier for her to shoot (and she is a true dead-eye with that gun, thank you) and also makes it harder for a bad guy to lever the gun out of her hand, although if a bad guy tried it, he would be multiply perforated before he got a hand on that gun.
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gumshoe4, I don't know either you or your wife so I can't begin to know how much training or knowledge you have in self-defense - could be a great deal more than me! Also, I'm not sure if what you meant about someone trying to wrestle the gun out of her hand. But, if you have never heard of this you might want to give it a try:

Acquire a toy gun, one that when the trigger is pulled the hammer rises & falls - like a cap gun. Even a squirt gun might work. It would be great if the barrel length were about the same.

Have your wife stand about 5 to 10 feet from you, holding the gun on you as she would an intruder. Then tell her when she first spots you moving for the gun, to pull the trigger & "shoot" you.

Get ready, then make your move & grab for the gun.

Chances are, that thing will be pointing at the ceiling, towards a wall or the floor before she pulls the trigger - if she gets a shot off at all.

A good friend who is a Pa State Trooper ran through this exersize with me once - I couldn't believe the results.

Again - there is no argument here and if I am preaching to the choir I apologize! If you are locked in arm to arm combat, no doubt that a short barrel is an advantage over a long barrel. The shorter spout is also less leverage, as you have mentioned. But to make sure leverage doesn't come into play, keep your safety zone 7 yards minimum.
 
Custom J frame

In the days before spring kits I routinely clipped off two coils on the main and rebound springs. Then came a home action job which consists of basic, internal parts polishing. I've never had a misfire that I could attribute to weakened springs. The problem comes when the wrong parts are polished by home gunsmiths or the springs are weakened by clipping too many coils. Today there are spring kits with varying rates. If one is too light for reliable ignition you can try the next heavier.

Something to think about concerning a spurless hammer. They are better for concealment but sometimes a spur is helpful. Consider, many, many men were killed with Col. Colt's single actions. Just my opinion and you know the old saying: Opinions are like .........., everybody has one. Good luck :)
 
i've carried a 642 for several years and found the following work just makes the gun more fun to shoot...

1. action tune, by a qualified smith who understands that it is a "combat gun"...i've also used the davis shop for other smiths but my 642 was done by DM gunsmithing (unfortunately now moved from area)

2. polish off serrations and round face of trigger

3. dehorn cylinder release...your thrumb will thank you

4. a set of grips that extends to the top of the frame,this allows a higher grip and reduces "felt recoil"

i like a internal hammer because i do all my wheelgun shooting DA (i don't hunt) and the shrouded or bobbed hammer both allow additional debris into the action
 
It sounds like you have a model 442 airweight centennial. That is IMHO about the best concealed carry revolver ever made. Put some grips on it that you like and maybe enhance the front sight with a red ramp or even bright paint and you have a real winner. I do not like to lighten main springs in defensive guns. I have owned ones that somebody messed with and went too far. Reliability is paramount in a gun such as this. The action will slick up with use. Don't forget that this is not a target gun. It can be surprisingly accurate, but its main point is to function 100%. Practice with it and you will learn to love it. Watch-Six
 
7-yard zone

Thanks, Kevinch, for the advice.

I'm very familiar with the 7-yard zone, having done a number of live-fire exercises in qualification shoots which essentially duplicate what you're describing. My wife has not done these, but has received direct counselling from me about the 7-yard zone, bearing in mind that this is an HD firearm and there are virtually no places 7 yards or more in dimension inside the house.

Your advice is very timely and I'm going to go again this evening and remind the spouse about that. Thanks for the reminder!!
 
Thanks, Kevinch, for the advice.
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No problem! :)

I just wish my wife took the same interest. She was the victim of a very violent crime many years ago, and while she has no problem with gun ownership & can protect herself, she doesn't have the enthusiasm I would hope for.
 
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