Curious if I would gain some spark?

S

Sure Shot Mc Gee

New member
Been toying with the idea of changing out my T/C Hawkens original Flint Lock to a L&R near drop-in replacement lock. My question: Would I gain any better flint spark off the frizzen? L&R Locks verses T/Cs?--Any knowledge of? would be appreciated.:)
 
I am assuming you are having a problem with the ignition and before going throught the trouble and expense of changing the lock try different flints. Track of the Wolf has a nice selection and I am sure you will find something that works well. Flints do not last forever and when they wear that is when you have ignition problems. Flints are cheaper than a new lock.
 
Try the different flints first as suggested.

Also, every lock is different. The big question . . "bevel up or bevel down". Most install their flints with the bevel up. However, every once in a while, a lock seems to work better with the bevel down - install one that way, take a look at the geometry of the lock and slowly release the cock and see how it strikes on the face of your frizzen.

I don't have any experience with the lock you are using but I have had experience with L & R - they have always proven to be top notch.

You don't state how old or how "used" your rifle is either. I am assuming that the face of the frizzen is in good shape?

If you're not getting a good shower of sparks in to the pan, I'd look at the flints first. As already stated, they don't last forever. You can knap the edge and sharpen it some which will extend the life of it a little. If you've ruled those things out, then make sure that the face of the frizzen is hardened like it should be. If not, it can always be rehardened with Casenite. Years ago, Dixie used to carry this just for this purpose.

If you've ruled all of these things out and have your mind made up to replace the lock, I'm sure you would be happy with a L & R. They are good quality lock and good folks.
 
My Thompson Center Sparks Pretty Good

HammTest3.gif
 
KWHI48@KC.rr.com: No way do I have a Thompson lock that showers like yours. In fact when my hammer falls onto its frizzen I can hardly see any spark at all >in the day light. As far as flints? I've been using T/C Premiums a for time. Lock doesn't have a lot of use time on it and the frizzen is in really good shape as I have recently changed it out with a new T/C part. In doing so, I was hoping to improve its anemic behavior. NO Go!! But there is one thing I haven't tried as mentioned by Bedbugbilly? I have never tried turning its flint bevel downwards. I'll give it a try first thing tomorrow. Thanks guys, :)
 
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Early T/C flintlocks had a geometry problem; the hammer doesn't present the flint at the right angle. This can be solved two ways: remove, heat and bend the hammer or call Thompson Center and ask for a new lock. They will replace it at no cost.

Changing the bevel may solve the problem but flint life will be affected.
 
mykeal: Just caught your thread before calling it a night here. Interesting info. You said: "Early T/C flintlocks had a geometry problem."
How early a rifle are you taking about? Thank you,
 
I don't have a specific time frame or serial number reference. Give T/C customer service a call and explain your problem to them.
 
fineredmist//bedbugbilly I have now gone the course of trying to figure this one out.:( I fliped the flint over and nothing seemed to change all that much in its spark shower? So I'm headed out the door later with Lock in hand over to Track of the Wolf to see if they can fix me up. :)
 
TC designed a replacement hammer/cock and not an entire replacement lock.
And they may have added or improved the vent liner.
The original cock was shorter and more curved, while the replacement cock stands taller with less of a pronounced "S" curve.
The main issue with the original cock was that it rapidly consumed flints, with reports of only being able to obtain 10 - 20 shots per flint. The newer cock can produce somewhere between 50 - 80 shots per flint.
 
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Well I thought you guys would like to know how my T/C Locks problem was cured? After a reasonably close inspection by a Pro. Here's what was thought:> When cleaning my rifle I always add a coat of #13 T/C Gun Oil (spray) over the entire rifles stock & barrel area for storage reasons. Over time it was thought that I must have sprayed close too or inadvertently smeared that T/C Gun Oil onto the locks Frizzen surface. We, couldn't actually see a oily film of it ? But it appears even a small amount can affect a Frizzen's performance. After wiping the Frizzen Face clean with some denatured alcohol. And changing out its flint with a brand new handy dandy English? --"It now works like a Champ!!! and I can actually see its Spark in the daytime now!!!:)"-- You guys were right about its >maybe flint problem!!< Sorry to say, I never got to call Thompson Center asking about a new Hammer for it. As it turned out doing so wasn't necessary. I'd like to Thank you all for your comments and recommendation on how to cure this embarrassing:o problem. Really appreciate it folks, SSMcG aka tom :D
 
Well, this is a little late and a moot point now, but I DID change the T/C percussion lock on my hawken to a L&R cap lock. I will say that the performance was distinctly different and superior at that. For one, the mainspring on the L&R is much more stout than the T/C and, secondly, the hammer travel is significantly shorter. The end result, given those improvements, was very surprising! I recommend those L&Rs if you are so inclined to make the change.

Oh...BTW, since the original post was referring to performance of a flintlock, there is a guy, Rich Pierce, somewhere in MO that produces the best flints I've ever used. They are WHITE in color, spark like no english flint can and last much longer. That is my experience anyways. He can be reached at RPIERCE@DOM.wustl.edu. I think I last paid him $13.50/dozen -- delivered.
 
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I second the reference to Mr. Pierce. He is my only source for flints - they are excellent quality and a bargain price. You email him, tell him how many and what size and your address and he mails them back to you and THEN you pay him.
 
Hey dlbarr: Thanks for the L&R info. I was wondering just how hard they are to fit? As I was told some wood removal is necessary to accomplish there proper installation? Kind of worried, that doing so might weaken my stock? As you know there isn't a whole lot of wood in that area to play with to begin with. --Also thanks for the link to your flint guy. Will definitely give his a try.-- "Always on the scout for a better flint?" --I am. :) BTW does Mr. Pierce know your members name from TFLF? As I would put a good word in for you at the time of my contact. Again Appreciate the info. SSMcG
 
Hey McGee...

....yes there is some stock removal to be done. I have never done that sort of thing before but handled OK I guess. I don't believe the stock has been compromised - I'm sure that's your concern, as it would also be mine. One thing I did need to do was to shorten and re-thread the lock screw as it would bottom out and the new lock would be loose. Didn't take too much, but it was necessary in my case. It may not be in yours, just have to see....

As far as my handle here, I doubt Rich knows it and that's OK...no need to mention it, I'm happy to help both you & him. You WILL appreciate the quality of his product, I'm sure.
 
One thing I did need to do was to shorten and re-thread the lock screw

dlbarr: Not a problem for me either. A neighbor of mine is a retired machinist by trade. He would do it in a heartbeat for me if asked too. (good friend) Besides He's got a better Tap & Die set than I do.>:D
 
Change up of flint.

dlbarr/mykeal: Flint has been ordered. Just waiting on their mail delivery now. Looking forward to trying one piece out guys. Powder & primmer horns filled. Rifle is ready to grab & go.:D
 
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