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Curious about SW triggers
- Thread starter Shmackey
- Start date
For the record-
I have two of the newer Smith's; a 629-5
.44 magnum and a 686-5 .357 magnum. The
action on the 629 is outstanding, as it
would rival that of the old model 29's
and come damn close to being as slick
as those found on the older model 19's.
The 686's action is not nearly as smooth;
of course, I'm still breaking in both
guns. Heck, both of these fine weapons
laid around on my dealer's shelf for
age's, with no takers; so, I said heck
I might as well give these two a new
home. Hadn't regreted it yet.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
I have two of the newer Smith's; a 629-5
.44 magnum and a 686-5 .357 magnum. The
action on the 629 is outstanding, as it
would rival that of the old model 29's
and come damn close to being as slick
as those found on the older model 19's.
The 686's action is not nearly as smooth;
of course, I'm still breaking in both
guns. Heck, both of these fine weapons
laid around on my dealer's shelf for
age's, with no takers; so, I said heck
I might as well give these two a new
home. Hadn't regreted it yet.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
From my observations..........generaly the Smiths of the last several years have had rougher internal finishing and thus rougher triggers. The switch to frame mounted firing pins has required slightly heavier hammer springs for reliable ignition.
Soooo, most (not all) of the older guns had better triggers than most, (again not all) of the recent offerings.
Moot point for me as I no longer sell new S&W nor will I buy one.
Sam, ex S&W dealer
Soooo, most (not all) of the older guns had better triggers than most, (again not all) of the recent offerings.
Moot point for me as I no longer sell new S&W nor will I buy one.
Sam, ex S&W dealer
Don Mallard
New member
Shmackey----
I think if you own a Smith revolver then it would be a asset--for you handgunning future--to have a qualified person teach you to strip it all the way down--pins, springs,pawls and all.
The only metal I ever remove-for the purpose of smooting the action is the trigger return spring.
All other parts are polished initially and for many, many months afterwards.
I use a polishing wheel which does not remove metal(oh if you consider the 'polishing' process as removing metal then-----)
There is one area -inside- the Smith revolver which is not as smooth as the older ones and that is the bottom of the rebound housing-(that is the housing witch encases the trigger return spring)
That particular part literally slides back and forth on the inside of the frame where it is mounted.
The old guns had the bottom of that part as smooth as a baby's butt! in fact it needs to be literally polished to a mirror finish so there is virtually no friction-which interpets as 'drag'.
I always remove enough of the trigger rebound spring until the trigger 'WILL NOT' return on it's own. Then I polish the bottom of the rebound housing until it is mirror like and then the trigger will return on it's own each time the trigger is pulled.
It is not hard to learn how to work on those guns.
The initial action job from a good gunsmith is only a start.
You should shoot it a whole bunch and take it all the way down after each range session to clean it and to polish the action. The more you polish--the smoother it gets.
It will take only a few times to do the process until it is no effort to do.
I have never used a drop of any kind of oil on my handguns.
That is literally a guarantee that whatever foreign substances which your gun is subjected to will stick to the parts which are oil coated. That means a caked up action and you do not want that if you need to exercise your right to stay alive if a person is attempting to steal your life.
I have rolled down a muddy river bank while on a manhunt and caked up my sidearm so badly that the cylinder coluld not be opened. A vigorious washing in water or peeing on the gun to remove the mud will put you back in action.
Nobody in my circle says that it will always be glamorous and fun!
Hey! start from where you are now and learn to do!
Don Mallard
I think if you own a Smith revolver then it would be a asset--for you handgunning future--to have a qualified person teach you to strip it all the way down--pins, springs,pawls and all.
The only metal I ever remove-for the purpose of smooting the action is the trigger return spring.
All other parts are polished initially and for many, many months afterwards.
I use a polishing wheel which does not remove metal(oh if you consider the 'polishing' process as removing metal then-----)
There is one area -inside- the Smith revolver which is not as smooth as the older ones and that is the bottom of the rebound housing-(that is the housing witch encases the trigger return spring)
That particular part literally slides back and forth on the inside of the frame where it is mounted.
The old guns had the bottom of that part as smooth as a baby's butt! in fact it needs to be literally polished to a mirror finish so there is virtually no friction-which interpets as 'drag'.
I always remove enough of the trigger rebound spring until the trigger 'WILL NOT' return on it's own. Then I polish the bottom of the rebound housing until it is mirror like and then the trigger will return on it's own each time the trigger is pulled.
It is not hard to learn how to work on those guns.
The initial action job from a good gunsmith is only a start.
You should shoot it a whole bunch and take it all the way down after each range session to clean it and to polish the action. The more you polish--the smoother it gets.
It will take only a few times to do the process until it is no effort to do.
I have never used a drop of any kind of oil on my handguns.
That is literally a guarantee that whatever foreign substances which your gun is subjected to will stick to the parts which are oil coated. That means a caked up action and you do not want that if you need to exercise your right to stay alive if a person is attempting to steal your life.
I have rolled down a muddy river bank while on a manhunt and caked up my sidearm so badly that the cylinder coluld not be opened. A vigorious washing in water or peeing on the gun to remove the mud will put you back in action.
Nobody in my circle says that it will always be glamorous and fun!
Hey! start from where you are now and learn to do!
Don Mallard