crimping target loads ?

[rebs]

If you are shooting target loads with bullseye powder, can you get them to shoot cleaner by adding crimp ? As in would more crimp give a more complete burn of the powder ?

 

[Slamfire]

I have no idea what caliber you are talking about. I basically crimp my 45 ACP loads for function. I taper crimp the case mouth to 0.469-0.470" . I also crimp all other cartridges.

If you are shooting cast bullets the lube leaves a big mess, it gets vaporized during combustion and then condenses when the pressure drops. So called clean powders burn more completely through formulations that raise pressure and temperatures. Those clean powders will make your gun hot and are very spikey. Just Google Titegroup Kaboom's. Exploding Glocks are a common theme with Titegroup.

 

[9x45]

I've run over 350,000 rounds thru various Glocks since 92 in competition and training/practice, all loaded with TiteGroup, and haven't blown up one of them. When the G22 40S&W first came out, we blew a couple up at the academy using factory ammo, because it was simply too hot, having derived from the 10mm. This is not a TiteGroup thing, or Glock thing, I've seen all different models of guns KaBoom competition, most recently a $ 5,000 STI Open Division gun in 9 Major because of bullet setback, not double charge, which is not possible on a auto indexing progressive. When even a light bullet sets back by .100", the pressure doubles, for the same charge weight. So any combination of fast powders (high density, low volume), and especially heavier bullets, is more likely to blow compared to slow powders (low density, high volume) and lighter bullets. Bullseye, Clays VV N310, TiteWad and TiteGroup are just a handful of the faster powders. That's why newbie reloaders should start with high volume powders that nearly fill the case.

OP, you didn't say what caliber you are running, but if it's a semi auto, it has to have a crimp or it won't feed. What caliber, bullet weight and powder are you using? Also what's your OAL?

Course putting pistol powder in a rifle will blow it to smithereeens... A couple of local dumb dumbs loading up a few hundred .223Rem rounds for a 3 gun match, sharing the press, and forgot to dump the powder hopper, which had Nitro 100 in it, instead of the rifle powder, and blew up both guns at the same match! They were on different squads at each end of the range and didn't know of the others KaBoom.

 

[m&p45acp10+1]

I get high carbon from BE regardless of crimp. For clean loads in .38Special I use Trail Boss. Just do not use it for full wad cutters as the low volume will cause a squib.

 

[Ben Dover]

I've been using Bullseye for over 50 years. I've never discovered anything that will make it burn cleanly.

But what the hell? You're supposed to clean your gun every time you shoot it, so who cares if the powder is dirty?

 

[T. O'Heir]

"...get them to shoot cleaner by adding crimp..." Nope. The crimp has nothing whatever to do with Bullseye being dirty powder. You don't need or really want any crimp for target loads anyway. Bad for accuracy.

 

[polyphemus]

but if it's a semi auto, it has to have a crimp or it won't feed.

That is simply nonsense,SAAMI specs for the .45 AUTO cartridge show no crimp,
factory ammo has no crimp,I don't crimp my reloads and they work just fine.
Philip B. Sharpe in The Complete Guide to Handloading has this to say on the subject:

A special note on this cartridge is that it must not be crimped when used in the automatic pistol.
The mouth of the cartridge case seats against the forward shoulder of the chamber and acts as a stop.
If any crimp is applied,this shoulder location is changed more or less,thus dangerously increasing headspace.This may or may not be disastrous to a gun but is inclined to give more or less misfires or hangfires,particularly since the blow of the firing pin tends to drive the cartridge deeper into the chamber before discharging the primer.

 

[rebs]

I am using bullseye powder with 148 gr HBWC's in 38 special caliber. Shooting them in a S&W model 19 with 4" barrel.

 

[Nathan]

I crimp everything to avoid setback and for consistency. I this by setting the seat/crimp die for zero crimp...remove 99-100% of flare. Then in a separate crimp die, I dial in crimp.

In the crimp die, I crimp one test round to touch case + 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1 turn of taper crimp. Then I:
1) measure OAL
2) load in mag
3) drop slide with slide stop
4) measure OAL and determine setback
5) repeat 5 cycles for each crimp amount

Typically 1/2 turn of the crimp die is best.

To me crimp is about 1 thing. Making sure that chambered rounds all have the same OAL. It is about elimating that variable. I'm not 100% sure why, but over crimp performs worse than under crimp. Over crimp Bullets move all over.

Talking taper crimp for semi-autos here only.

 

[polyphemus]

OP indicates in post#8 that he is handloading revolver cartridges.
Revolver cartridges are roll crimped to prevent forward bullet creep,it is not likely that pressing the case more or less into the bullet would change the powder burn characteristics.

 

[Nathan]

Good point. I should learn to read!

Setback is still the issue, but I hav to shoot 5 and check #6 for movement. Still looking for a revolver shortcut!

 

[rodfac]

Nope, it's just a dirtier burning powder...a little brother to Unique [flaming dirt], in my opinion.

No setback is possible with a revolver...bullet jump forward due to recoil may be a problem however...with wadcutters at target velocity levels in a M19, I've never had a bullet move...I straighten out the seating flare and that's all.

Rod