Crimp question

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passtime

New member
Hello all. I ordinarily load lead bullets in all my handguns. I decided to try some Speer 158gr. Gold dots / Deep curl bullets in my 4" GP100. As I said I usually use lead so my dies are set up to do a roll crimp. I use the Redding Profile Crimp Die. It does a nice roll crimp. The lead bullets I load have a crimp groove to accept the roll crimp. These Gold Dots have a canulure instead of a crimp groove. I have no experience with canulure type bullets. I am guessing it needs a taper crimp. It seems to me that a roll crimp might destroy the jacket. If it does indeed need a taper crimp will the Redding Profile Crimp Die do the trick? I have done some research on these questions but as usual the answers come out about 50/50 either way. Roll crimp, no taper crimp. Redding crimp die will do a taper crimp. No/ it is designed to do a roll crimp. I went to Speer and the Redding website and could not get a clear answer there either. That is how I ended up here. A few years ago when I started loading I got a lot of good advice here. Suggestions/guidance would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
No, just do a medium roll into the cannelure.
That's what the indent is there for.

Standard crimp is perfectly fine, but Redding profile is even gooder. ;)
It does both a slight taper and then roll.
 
Thank you kindly for the info. I thought I remembered something about the Redding Profile Crimp die doing a hybrid / specialized crimp when I was researching it before I bought it. Thanks again and take care.
 
Yep, Mehavey is right. You'll just need to use a little less crimp with a cannalure than a crimp groove as you'll be moving a bit less case metal into a shallower groove (cannalure). BTW, I've used a Redding Profile Crimp Die for my .357 Magnums and .44 Magnums for many years (20+?). Great tool...
 
Thanks to you all. I plan on loading up some of the Gold Dots this weekend. I will let you all know how it works out. I agree, the Redding Profile Crimp Die is a good tool. I have been using it for about two years now. Thanks again to all.
 
A cannelure is a crimp groove. Just isn't as deep. In any case, unless you're driving those bullets fast, you really don't need a crimp at all. If you insist on it or are loading hot, use as little crimp as possible.
 
> use as little crimp as possible.

You'll know if it isn't enough when the bullet on the last round sticks out the cylinder...
 
Thanks for the advice. Crimp or not to crimp is one of those different strokes for different folks kinda things. Both sides of the coin have their pros and cons. I personally like to use a medium to heavy roll crimp on revolver rounds depending on the type of powder and charge weight I am using. Crimping may or may not take some life off the brass. It seems as if it would to me but I have not had any issues as of yet. As far as crimp groove and cannular. I needed a way to distinguish between the two for the clarity of my post. It seemed to serve my intention so I am happy with the way I stated it. Thanks again for the advice.:)
 
Crimp or not to crimp is one of those different strokes for different folks kinda things. Both sides of the coin have their pros and cons. I personally like to use a medium to heavy roll crimp on revolver rounds depending on the type of powder and charge weight I am using. Crimping may or may not take some life off the brass. It seems as if it would to me but I have not had any issues as of yet.
Click to expand...

Seems to me, you've got it covered. The GDs/Deep curls are not really a jacketed bullet, but a "bonded" bullet. Fancy word for plated, but unlike cheaper plinker type plated bullets, the plating on the GDs/Deep Curls is thicker and it is over a harder lead core than used by many plated bullets. It would take a pretty heavy roll crimp to distort the bullets or cut thru the plating. Speer themselves recommends a "heavy roll crimp" when using slow burning magnum handgun powders with these bullets. The heavy crimp holds the bullet in place upon ignition to insure a more complete and consistent burn. The 158s are designed for hunting deer size game and are intended to be pushed hard, and are priced accordingly. If you do not push them hard, you may as well save money and just shoot cheap FMJs or plated RNs because there will be no expansion. You need 1100 fps or more for best terminal performance. This is why Speer changed the name on them from GDs to Deep Curls, to distinguish them from their SD Gold Dot bullet line. While built similarly, GDs are meant to expand more rapidly at lower muzzle velocities, while the Deep Curls are designed for more penetration.....thus the name "Deep Curl". The GDs are generally lighter in weight also, in .38/.357 these are the 125s and 110s. Pushing them hard means more chance of bullet jump, and again, a firm roll crimp is what's needed to prevent this. I personally would rather get one or two less loadings from a case and use the proper crimp as opposed to inconsistent velocities and bullets jumping crimp. .357 mag brass is fairly inexpensive and iffin I was looking to be a cheapskate, I wouldn't be shooting GDs/Deep Curls anyway.
 
Lots of good information there buck. Thanks. I use 2400 for my medium to hot 357 mag loads. I get much better results with a heavy roll crimp when using a stout load of 2400. That is with 158 gr LSWC and 180gr LWNFP. I use the SWC for general use and the 180gr LWNFP for a black bear deterrent. Thanks again.
 
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