Creating my own Rifle Stock

S

seananamous

Inactive
I'm looking into creating my own rifle stock and just trying to get as much information to do it the right way.
I have most of the tools needed.
Now when purchasing a blank... that's is the rough part I'm trying to figure out. I do know that it has to be either walnut or maple and dried over 2 years.
Will this do? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/184F-KD-Blac...-/252687895234

Some helpful tips I've seen are:
embedding a steel/graphite core into the wrist of the rifle for strength
using steel pillars embedded in the wood stock (30-06)
What else would you suggest?

Over the months I will show progress photos.
 
PM me and we'll exchange phone numbers.
Whole books are written on this subject, and I type slowly, so we should talk.
I make stocks by hand all the time. In fact it's the largest part of earning my living, so I am sure I can give you some good tips.


All of these, and a whole lot more were made by hand from blanks.










 
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"...and dried over 2 years..." A very decided, maybe. Has to dry to a specific moisture content not for a specific time. That E-Bay thing is kiln dried too. Just a different thing.
Stock making is a very ambitious project. There are tons of books. None of which teach the patience stock work requires.
Pillar bedding doesn't require steel. Al will do as well. Nothing is necessary to be added in the wrist of the stock either.
 
Have you considered starting from a semi-inletted blank rather than just a block of wood? It will be more expensive but will save you some time and certain key features (like action screw alignment and spacing) will be done for you, saving you from some potentially bad errors. If you don't have a mill of your own, it will put you ahead on starting. It will still be a fairly extensive process even if you do it this way, with a lot to learn.

I'm sure there are members here who can turn a blank into a beautiful stock with just a couple of hand tools and they might get you started on the right path, but I believe you'll find that very trying to your dedication on the task.

Steve, I have to agree with Bill that those are some stunning stocks. Muzzleloaders seem to be your forte.

EDIT: Wanted to add, I am far from a professional having just completed my first stock from a semi-inletted and rough shaped stock myself. As far as book recommendations, this is one I referred to frequently and which was highly recommended by my stocks instructor who kept a copy available to us at all times for reference. It helps a lot with clarifying and laying out the artistic flow lines of the stock which you may not be accustomed to looking for (I definitely wasn't, having about the artistic talent of an elephant with a paintbrush). This book lays out a lot of processes in a very straightforward manner with lots of pictures (my copy was black and white, I don't know if color versions are available)

https://www.amazon.com/Professional...rd_wg=Dx3dV&psc=1&refRID=G5V2BYJ22WMR3TNBQKKN
 
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"...and dried over 2 years..." A very decided, maybe. Has to dry to a specific moisture content not for a specific time. That E-Bay thing is kiln dried too. Just a different thing.
Stock making is a very ambitious project. There are tons of books. None of which teach the patience stock work requires.
Pillar bedding doesn't require steel. Al will do as well. Nothing is necessary to be added in the wrist of the stock either.
Click to expand...

so I assume there's hardly a difference between kiln dried & air dried when using for a rifle stock? Yes I know stock making is ambitious but this wouldn't be my first woodworking project. I have all tools necessary.
Do you know where aluminum tubing 1/4 ID can be found?
Also yes the wrist stock doesn't NEED to have the reinforcement but seeing how its done, it takes about 10 minutes and not a lot of effort. Plus it gives me ease of mind. I don't want to spend 50+ hours on this to then later have it crack at the weak spot.

Have you considered starting from a semi-inletted blank rather than just a block of wood? It will be more expensive but will save you some time and certain key features (like action screw alignment and spacing) will be done for you, saving you from some potentially bad errors. If you don't have a mill of your own, it will put you ahead on starting. It will still be a fairly extensive process even if you do it this way, with a lot to learn.

I'm sure there are members here who can turn a blank into a beautiful stock with just a couple of hand tools and they might get you started on the right path, but I believe you'll find that very trying to your dedication on the task.

Steve, I have to agree with Bill that those are some stunning stocks. Muzzleloaders seem to be your forte.

EDIT: Wanted to add, I am far from a professional having just completed my first stock from a semi-inletted and rough shaped stock myself. As far as book recommendations, this is one I referred to frequently and which was highly recommended by my stocks instructor who kept a copy available to us at all times for reference. It helps a lot with clarifying and laying out the artistic flow lines of the stock which you may not be accustomed to looking for (I definitely wasn't, having about the artistic talent of an elephant with a paintbrush). This book lays out a lot of processes in a very straightforward manner with lots of pictures (my copy was black and white, I don't know if color versions are available)
Click to expand...

Yes I have considered it but I want to test myself and have that ability to say, "Hey I made this" but that's just my way of thinking.

I did see another block of wood - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Walnut-Rifle-Gunstock-Blank-Dry-Aged-32-years-39-nice-X3/201693766402
Is this a better choice?
 
As far as a book,Kennedy.I think its Monte Kennedy,something like "The Carving and Checkering of Gunstocks"
Now,whether it is available???.

I have messed with precarved stocks,90%,etc. Frankly,I was usually disappointed.Somehow they manage to screw something up.

And a precarved stock has no square,flat,or straight surfaces to work with.
A gunstock blank may not,either,but step one is to establish those,and a centerline.(In a rough blank you have the wood to mill or plane) Think of the flat,square wood as fixturing .

When you select your blank,look very carefully at grain layout.Unfortunately most of the sawyers want to get a maximum number of blanks out of a tree.That is way different than trying to saw proper blanks out of the tree.

I am quite particular about how the grain flows through the wrist(think strength) and the forend(think stability).

I have only made a few,as an amateur.
 
I don't have a lathe but I'm pretty good at finding things. If I cant find aluminum I'll surely find steel. Having an inch long hollow piece of steel wont make a difference at all with weight.

I did find a blank that has grains running through the wrist. Its a "claro walnut" for $100
 
"...difference between kiln dried & air dried..." Mostly the time it takes to get to the desired moisture level. However, it's also one of the many 'depends' things that'll start an argument.
https://www.doublegunshop.com/phiatt4.htm
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...topics/8822063/Gunstock_blanks_moisture_conte
"...where aluminum tubing 1/4 ID can be found..." Industrial fastener supply shops. Try to forget retail and think in terms of industrial suppliers. Very few will refuse to sell to anybody with money. Some of 'em will apologise about having to charge you sales tax, if that applies where you are. Downside is you'll get to the point where you hate paying retail for anything. snicker.
In any case, between Al or steel it's and either/or thing.
"...a steel/graphite core..." Isn't going to help if the wrist area isn't carved just right. The stock will still break and be turned into pistol grip blanks. Graphite has to be the right 'alloy' too. Graphite isn't strong stuff by itself. Think pencil lead.
As much as I dislike anything to do with E-Bay, a $30 blank is probably a good idea. Not so much money if you wreck the thing.
 
Air dried vs kiln dried,one is colors and contrast.Air dried will be more vivid.
Brownells sells pillars

Pillar bedding means different things to different people.On something like a Mauser or Springfield or M-70,with a flat bottom receiver,those sleeves prevent crushing wood.and maintain the space between the guard and receiver.Think of the magazine.They serve a valuable purpose,but its not really pillar bedding.You really DO NOT want the guard screws contacting the ID of the sleeves when the guard screws are tight.

Pillar bedding is one approach for tubular receivers.The idea is the receiver is suspended on the two pillars,and the recoil lug controls fore and aft.
Its not my field of experience.

I'd be careful about over-engineering.With good grain layout,no need to re-enforce the wrist.Clearance behind the upper tang.A good place to use gel the front of the mag box back up the wood behind the recoil lug.Let the recoil flow through the guard assy to the lower tang.There is good,supported wood there.A little gel behind the lower tang,no clearance.
 
I've done quite a bit of stock work over the years, but would never recommend using a blank for the first one. Semi-inletted is a good way to start with stocks and is more fail-safe.

I like plane-sawed stocks for both appearance and strength. Slab sawed may be good for target rifles, but not for pretty sporters.

Some folks don't know how to shape a buttstock to minimize recoil, but I consider it very important. Correct length, drop, and comb shape are the three things to stress. (There are a lot of pretty rifles that kick you in the cheek.)

IMHO, it's got to be correctly pillar-bedded and adequately free-floated, or I don't want the rifle. Of course, I want to do that work myself.

Best of luck with your first project. Do it the way you want. Your next one will probably be better, as will the next, etc.

JP
 
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