Bill Akins
New member
Just a few musings, reflections, tips, pictures and ideas of mine here. First I'll start with the crazy inflated prices currently on black powder revolvers.
As some of you already know, there are only a small number of BP revolver manufacturers. There may be a few more than I list here, but the main ones are Uberti, Pietta, EMF, Navy Arms, CVA and I think Dixie Gun Works makes their own too. Armie San Marcos is out of business. Cimmeron cherry picks their guns from Uberti's (as do some other distributors) so they don't really count as a separate manufacturer even if they do some cleaning up and slicking of the actions. If I made any mistakes or left any major ones out I apologize, but I think those represent the main bulk of the BP revolver manufacturers.
Recently Uberti merged with Beretta and I have heard that they plan to scale back on their BP production. In fact I heard that the Uberti 2011 production may be held up until April. Pietta is still trucking right along and might benefit corporately if Uberti lags behind due to their new merger with Beretta. But what has me amazed is the prices I am seeing for BP revolvers both brand new from the dealers and used at auction.
I remember back in the '70's, '80's and '90's when folks at gunshows had to practically give away a black powder revolver to move it. First everyone wanted a "Dirty Harry" mdl 29 Smith & Wesson. Then everyone wanted one of those "new" hi cap 9mm's (even though the hi cap Browning hi power had been out since 1935). Even as late as the late '90's I remember passing tables at gun shows where it was common to see a usually brass frame, 1851 or 1860 colt clone or 1858 Remington clone, for around $50 to $75 dollars.
Back then most of the general shooting public other than those like myself who just dug it, weren't interested that much in BP revolvers. Too much trouble to load, too many accessories and too messy many told me. My first one was a .44 cal Walker back in the mid '70's. Also the first time I ever shot it (which was my first time ever shooting a BP revolver) was my first experience with one rd chain firing along with the purposely fired rd. I bought my Walker used but in like new condition for $75.00
Black powder guns just didn't move much. It was a great time to be into it because stuff was CHEAP! You could also easily pick up a BP revolver at a yard sale for $25 or $30 dollars. Half the time the used one you bought hadn't even ever been fired! Most shooters didn't know much about how to load and shoot them and as a result they weren't expensive or popular with the general shooting public back in those days in spite of the Uberti supplied revolvers used in the Spaghetti westerns.
Then came CAS and SASS and everything changed. I saw formerly $50.00 brass framed (and steel framed) BP revolvers just skyrocket in price and stay there in spite of everyone buying so called "assault rifles" just before the anointed one's election. Trying to find a good deal on used BP revolvers these days is getting harder. Ruger quit making their fine Old Army just after they made a few of the CAS styled ones in blue and stainless with the 5.5 inch barrel and the Vaquero style fixed sights for CAS shooters.
I just saw a stainless, Vaquero sighted, 5.5 inch barrel ROA go on a major auction site a few days ago for OVER $700.00. Insane. You can put together an AR15 for that! A similar stainless 5.5 inch barrel Uberti or Pietta Remington can be bought new for about $380.00 but even that's insane. The smart thing to do is to buy a used stainless Remy for about the going rate of $175.00 (seen a lot of the stainless Remys going at that price) and then cut the barrel and loading lever down to make it a 5.5 inch barrel.
Re-dovetail the lever latch and front sight on the shorter barrel.
That's much cheaper than buying an over $700.00 stainless, 5.5 inch barrel, Vaquero sights, Ruger Old Army. The Remy is still stainless and looks a lot like the ROA. Are ROA coil springs really worth that many hundreds of dollars more compared to a stainless leaf springs Remy? Not to me. I can replace a lot of Remy leaf springs for that $575.00 in difference in prices.
I really would like a brace of those stainless ROA's, but again....insane inflated prices also driven by their now being out of production. Bill Ruger said his BP Old Army was the finest BP revolver in the world and that there would always be a ROA as long as he was alive. And he was right. Only then Bill Ruger died and the Old Army died with him even though I think Ruger corporate heads made a big mistake discontinuing the ROA since CAS and SASS is growing and the demand for ROA's is increasing, artificially driving ROA prices up because they are discontinued.
Also the Italian (most of the BP manufacturers are) manufacturers are afraid of the decreasing and unsure fluctuation value of the dollar. Many are requiring their distributors to pay for their shipments up front now rather than pay for the shipment later when the dollar may not be worth as much as it would be prior to shipment to the distributors. And they are charging MORE for their products than they were before simply because our dollar is not worth as much as it used to be. All that factors in to a higher cost to us.
Now for my tips on getting good deals on BP revolvers.
So what do I and we do to get a good deal on BP revolvers? Several ways. Sometimes you get lucky at a yard sale and find one whose owner doesn't realize how much they have gone up in value. Sometimes we just luck up finding someone who just wants to quickly get rid of one cheaply at a forum classifieds. Then there's several other ways I have been looking into. Buying parts at auction that just need a few other inexpensive parts to complete an entire revolver. Or buying a rusty or neglected revolver that most people will turn away from because it looks bad....but you and I can fix that up easily with a wire wheel, polishing wheel, a few screws or inexpensive parts and some cold blue to get a nice revolver that most others didn't realize it could again be.
A pitted barrel as long as it isn't REAL bad doesn't really throw off accuracy that much. Pure lead will quickly fill in most pits in a barrel and the rifling is deep enough so that a few pits won't harm much IF you DO get a pitted barrel on an otherwise good deal. Everyone seems to want a steel frame vs a brass frame because the steel is stronger and they have been told that brass frames can eventually come loose from the cylinder pin or stretch.
That is true if you shoot hot loads. But if you stick to 15 grains in a .36 cal, or 25 grains in a .44 cal, or even a little less, you likely will never have that problem. I have both brass and steel frames. But the brass framed ones will usually be less expensive so the best bang for your buck, and if you stick to light loads, the brass frame will usually do just fine. Steel frames are better, but brass is the cheaper deal and works fine with light loads.
Case in point. Here's a Navy Arms copy of the Confederate Griswold & Gunnison, half round barrel copy of the .44 cal 1851 Colt, that I have a low pre-bid of $55.00 on at a little known online auction. Nice looking aftermarket stag grips. It appears the revolver may have been a kit gun that was neglected to be blued and has a lot of surface rust on it making it very esthetically unappealing and undesirable to most people. The average person might not want an ugly revolver all rusted looking like that and might think "it's a piece of rusted junk!" But I look at it and think "cool all or most of the parts are there" and I see what easily can be done to clean it up and have a nice looking revolver again.
Many of the entrepreneurs at smaller less well known auctions, will be buying to re-sell and make a quick flip profit on larger more well known auctions charging more such as GunBr**er. They will pass up on a revolver if it looks like they will have to work on it to flip it. Too much trouble. That's where you can get a good deal on a shooter for you.
A little time with the bench grinder wire wheel and dremel wire wheel, then onto the polishing wheel and some cold blue should clean that right up. Not sure what is going on with that strange looking hammer, but if it needs replacement, hammers are not expensive and easily obtainable cheaply at online auctions. Take a look at this below. Would you turn away from it or realize what you can easily do to fix it and have a great deal? (The stag or fake stag grips alone will cost you around $40.00 or more). If you think most people wouldn't want it because of the rust, that's exactly what you and I can be counting on so we can get a good deal. We can look past the surface aesthetics and know how to easily fix it while many do not.
Another thing I have learned is to not be in a hurry to buy a BP revolver.
Resist the urge to "get it right now". Don't impulse buy. Take your time and look in the many forum's classifieds, yard sales, scour the auctions and don't be afraid to get a fixer upper. There is no hurry. You aren't going to be likely using this for self defense. You have other modern guns for that. It's a fun gun. So no rush.
Next an idea I have on improving the cylinder locking bolt so that it minimizes the scoring of the cylinder lead in grooves and any cylinder "ringing" in general.
In responding to another thread about revolver timing issues where we were talking about the bolt scoring and "ringing" the cylinder, this idea suddenly stuck me about how cylinder lead in groove scoring and cylinder "ringing" could be further minimized.
Modify a bolt head so that it has a teeny free rolling, ball bearing, peen captured in the top of the bolt head so that it not only won't fall out, but can only rise to the normal height of a normal bolt head. The bolt head is re-contoured so that the very tip edge of the top of the ball bearing is at the top of the bolt head. The ball bearing would roll across the cylinder instead of the bolt normally dragging across the cylinder. The sides of the bolt are still the same so it doesn't affect engagement with the side of the cylinder slots. There are already very small set screws manufactured, that are made to hold a spring loaded, tiny, peen captured, ball bearing. You can screw this set screw into threads tapped into the bolt head after you first re-contoured the bolt head so that the ball bearing was the furthest most sticking up part of the bolt head.
Now instead of the bolt head dragging across the lead in grooves or ringing your cylinder, the ball bearing just rolls into the lead in grooves and or rolls across the cylinder minimizing scoring and ringing. (The difference between dragging a stone block to the pyramid or rolling it on bearings.) The sides of the bolt would remain unchanged so that firm slot lockup remained the same.
I wonder why no one makes bolts like that? It seems like a good idea to me.
The other idea I have had that goes back 30 years (to a wooden mockup I built) is a chain fire prevention plate that would obviate the need to use greased wads or grease over the projectile.
We know that most chainfires are caused by loose caps on the rear of the cylinder rather than from the front of the chambers of the cylinder. Where fire from one cap enters past the loose or missing cap on another nipple and sets that chamber off too. This usually happens when you have fired a round or two and don't realize some of your caps have come off because you were using looser #11 caps instead of #10's, or because you neglected to pinch your #11 caps so they would fit the nipples tighter. So that when you fire again, the fire from your percussion cap enters into an adjacent nipple that has become uncapped.
It is not exactly rare, but it is an infrequent occurrence and can be dangerous. It did happen to me back in the '70's on the very first time I ever fired a BP revolver. Luckily I had just loaded only two cylinders on my first BP revolver, a Walker clone. I fired once and then when I fired the second loaded cylinder, it was just a "snap" of the percussion cap.
After pointing the revolver downward to ensure it wasn't a hang fire, at an angle away from my face, I inspected the chamber and saw it was empty. The flame between the barrel to cylinder gap had entered into the adjacent chamber (because I hadn't used a greased wad or greased over the ball) and set it off along with the chamber I meant to shoot. Luckily that adjacent chamber was not blocked by anything and the round just fired out alongside the barrel. But an unnerving experience on my very first shot of a BP revolver so many years ago. After that I used greased wads or grease or crisco or bore butter over the balls.
So although most occurrences of "chainfiring" occur from the nipple end, as you can see, they can easily also occur from the cylinder chamber end too.
So back then in the mid '70's I started thinking about how this could be prevented without having to use greased wads or grease over the balls and came up with this idea. I made a wooden prototype that I still have that you can see in the below pics. To this day I have questions about if it would work as I envision it should. It still leaves the bottom cylinder chamber exposed (for loading) and if not fitted tightly against the cylinder, it could still allow chamber end chain firing. But if made correctly and from the proper fire and explosion proof materials, I think it could have possibilities.
With no mods to the revolver in any way. It fits over the cylinder pin and also fits over the forcing cone so it will not rotate. My idea was to have some sort of asbestos material on the rear of this plate that could be greased. That way it would be lubricated so the cylinder would turn against it and also the grease would help prevent fire from one cylinder from entering behind and between the plate and into another cylinder. The problem is, the force and flame coming from the front of the cylinder may cut through any such material just as it will cut through the material of a sandbag rest from the barrel to cylinder gap explosive force.
The force and flame may prevent this idea from working like I would hope it should. But that is unproven because I never continued my experiments on it and I never progressed past making a wooden concept mockup to make a steel one or even hard plastic one with greased material on the back side of it. A durable material other than steel for the plate might be better just in case it did fail and a chainfire occured. That way the chainfire would destroy the plate without blowing up the cylinder whereas a steel plate holding in a multiple chainfire behind it could be a nasty little bomb. Gotta think safety here.
The proper flame proof material on the back of the plate that could withstand the cutting force of the explosion may work. Maybe some type of kevlar or something similar. Maybe I'll get the time to play around with it again sometime. But I'll be sure to tie the revolver down and pull the trigger with an extended lanyard cord in a cheap BP if I do, just in case.
Anyway, here's a few recent pictures of my old wooden mockup so you can see how it worked and fit.
Wooden top edge broke off over the many years since the 1970's of clattering around in one of my parts drawers.
The wooden mockup was made to fit my old 1851 colt clone which is long gone. When I put it on my current 1860 clone, the barrel would not go all the way back to the frame. (See the gap at the bottom of the barrel to frame engagement). But you can still get the basic idea and this could be remedied if I made another one to fit.
Ah well, that's enough of my bored musings for one day.
Hope I didn't bore you. Sometimes I tend to write long ones.
.
As some of you already know, there are only a small number of BP revolver manufacturers. There may be a few more than I list here, but the main ones are Uberti, Pietta, EMF, Navy Arms, CVA and I think Dixie Gun Works makes their own too. Armie San Marcos is out of business. Cimmeron cherry picks their guns from Uberti's (as do some other distributors) so they don't really count as a separate manufacturer even if they do some cleaning up and slicking of the actions. If I made any mistakes or left any major ones out I apologize, but I think those represent the main bulk of the BP revolver manufacturers.
Recently Uberti merged with Beretta and I have heard that they plan to scale back on their BP production. In fact I heard that the Uberti 2011 production may be held up until April. Pietta is still trucking right along and might benefit corporately if Uberti lags behind due to their new merger with Beretta. But what has me amazed is the prices I am seeing for BP revolvers both brand new from the dealers and used at auction.
I remember back in the '70's, '80's and '90's when folks at gunshows had to practically give away a black powder revolver to move it. First everyone wanted a "Dirty Harry" mdl 29 Smith & Wesson. Then everyone wanted one of those "new" hi cap 9mm's (even though the hi cap Browning hi power had been out since 1935). Even as late as the late '90's I remember passing tables at gun shows where it was common to see a usually brass frame, 1851 or 1860 colt clone or 1858 Remington clone, for around $50 to $75 dollars.
Back then most of the general shooting public other than those like myself who just dug it, weren't interested that much in BP revolvers. Too much trouble to load, too many accessories and too messy many told me. My first one was a .44 cal Walker back in the mid '70's. Also the first time I ever shot it (which was my first time ever shooting a BP revolver) was my first experience with one rd chain firing along with the purposely fired rd. I bought my Walker used but in like new condition for $75.00
Black powder guns just didn't move much. It was a great time to be into it because stuff was CHEAP! You could also easily pick up a BP revolver at a yard sale for $25 or $30 dollars. Half the time the used one you bought hadn't even ever been fired! Most shooters didn't know much about how to load and shoot them and as a result they weren't expensive or popular with the general shooting public back in those days in spite of the Uberti supplied revolvers used in the Spaghetti westerns.
Then came CAS and SASS and everything changed. I saw formerly $50.00 brass framed (and steel framed) BP revolvers just skyrocket in price and stay there in spite of everyone buying so called "assault rifles" just before the anointed one's election. Trying to find a good deal on used BP revolvers these days is getting harder. Ruger quit making their fine Old Army just after they made a few of the CAS styled ones in blue and stainless with the 5.5 inch barrel and the Vaquero style fixed sights for CAS shooters.
I just saw a stainless, Vaquero sighted, 5.5 inch barrel ROA go on a major auction site a few days ago for OVER $700.00. Insane. You can put together an AR15 for that! A similar stainless 5.5 inch barrel Uberti or Pietta Remington can be bought new for about $380.00 but even that's insane. The smart thing to do is to buy a used stainless Remy for about the going rate of $175.00 (seen a lot of the stainless Remys going at that price) and then cut the barrel and loading lever down to make it a 5.5 inch barrel.
Re-dovetail the lever latch and front sight on the shorter barrel.
That's much cheaper than buying an over $700.00 stainless, 5.5 inch barrel, Vaquero sights, Ruger Old Army. The Remy is still stainless and looks a lot like the ROA. Are ROA coil springs really worth that many hundreds of dollars more compared to a stainless leaf springs Remy? Not to me. I can replace a lot of Remy leaf springs for that $575.00 in difference in prices.
I really would like a brace of those stainless ROA's, but again....insane inflated prices also driven by their now being out of production. Bill Ruger said his BP Old Army was the finest BP revolver in the world and that there would always be a ROA as long as he was alive. And he was right. Only then Bill Ruger died and the Old Army died with him even though I think Ruger corporate heads made a big mistake discontinuing the ROA since CAS and SASS is growing and the demand for ROA's is increasing, artificially driving ROA prices up because they are discontinued.
Also the Italian (most of the BP manufacturers are) manufacturers are afraid of the decreasing and unsure fluctuation value of the dollar. Many are requiring their distributors to pay for their shipments up front now rather than pay for the shipment later when the dollar may not be worth as much as it would be prior to shipment to the distributors. And they are charging MORE for their products than they were before simply because our dollar is not worth as much as it used to be. All that factors in to a higher cost to us.
Now for my tips on getting good deals on BP revolvers.
So what do I and we do to get a good deal on BP revolvers? Several ways. Sometimes you get lucky at a yard sale and find one whose owner doesn't realize how much they have gone up in value. Sometimes we just luck up finding someone who just wants to quickly get rid of one cheaply at a forum classifieds. Then there's several other ways I have been looking into. Buying parts at auction that just need a few other inexpensive parts to complete an entire revolver. Or buying a rusty or neglected revolver that most people will turn away from because it looks bad....but you and I can fix that up easily with a wire wheel, polishing wheel, a few screws or inexpensive parts and some cold blue to get a nice revolver that most others didn't realize it could again be.
A pitted barrel as long as it isn't REAL bad doesn't really throw off accuracy that much. Pure lead will quickly fill in most pits in a barrel and the rifling is deep enough so that a few pits won't harm much IF you DO get a pitted barrel on an otherwise good deal. Everyone seems to want a steel frame vs a brass frame because the steel is stronger and they have been told that brass frames can eventually come loose from the cylinder pin or stretch.
That is true if you shoot hot loads. But if you stick to 15 grains in a .36 cal, or 25 grains in a .44 cal, or even a little less, you likely will never have that problem. I have both brass and steel frames. But the brass framed ones will usually be less expensive so the best bang for your buck, and if you stick to light loads, the brass frame will usually do just fine. Steel frames are better, but brass is the cheaper deal and works fine with light loads.
Case in point. Here's a Navy Arms copy of the Confederate Griswold & Gunnison, half round barrel copy of the .44 cal 1851 Colt, that I have a low pre-bid of $55.00 on at a little known online auction. Nice looking aftermarket stag grips. It appears the revolver may have been a kit gun that was neglected to be blued and has a lot of surface rust on it making it very esthetically unappealing and undesirable to most people. The average person might not want an ugly revolver all rusted looking like that and might think "it's a piece of rusted junk!" But I look at it and think "cool all or most of the parts are there" and I see what easily can be done to clean it up and have a nice looking revolver again.
Many of the entrepreneurs at smaller less well known auctions, will be buying to re-sell and make a quick flip profit on larger more well known auctions charging more such as GunBr**er. They will pass up on a revolver if it looks like they will have to work on it to flip it. Too much trouble. That's where you can get a good deal on a shooter for you.
A little time with the bench grinder wire wheel and dremel wire wheel, then onto the polishing wheel and some cold blue should clean that right up. Not sure what is going on with that strange looking hammer, but if it needs replacement, hammers are not expensive and easily obtainable cheaply at online auctions. Take a look at this below. Would you turn away from it or realize what you can easily do to fix it and have a great deal? (The stag or fake stag grips alone will cost you around $40.00 or more). If you think most people wouldn't want it because of the rust, that's exactly what you and I can be counting on so we can get a good deal. We can look past the surface aesthetics and know how to easily fix it while many do not.
Another thing I have learned is to not be in a hurry to buy a BP revolver.
Resist the urge to "get it right now". Don't impulse buy. Take your time and look in the many forum's classifieds, yard sales, scour the auctions and don't be afraid to get a fixer upper. There is no hurry. You aren't going to be likely using this for self defense. You have other modern guns for that. It's a fun gun. So no rush.
Next an idea I have on improving the cylinder locking bolt so that it minimizes the scoring of the cylinder lead in grooves and any cylinder "ringing" in general.
In responding to another thread about revolver timing issues where we were talking about the bolt scoring and "ringing" the cylinder, this idea suddenly stuck me about how cylinder lead in groove scoring and cylinder "ringing" could be further minimized.
Modify a bolt head so that it has a teeny free rolling, ball bearing, peen captured in the top of the bolt head so that it not only won't fall out, but can only rise to the normal height of a normal bolt head. The bolt head is re-contoured so that the very tip edge of the top of the ball bearing is at the top of the bolt head. The ball bearing would roll across the cylinder instead of the bolt normally dragging across the cylinder. The sides of the bolt are still the same so it doesn't affect engagement with the side of the cylinder slots. There are already very small set screws manufactured, that are made to hold a spring loaded, tiny, peen captured, ball bearing. You can screw this set screw into threads tapped into the bolt head after you first re-contoured the bolt head so that the ball bearing was the furthest most sticking up part of the bolt head.
Now instead of the bolt head dragging across the lead in grooves or ringing your cylinder, the ball bearing just rolls into the lead in grooves and or rolls across the cylinder minimizing scoring and ringing. (The difference between dragging a stone block to the pyramid or rolling it on bearings.) The sides of the bolt would remain unchanged so that firm slot lockup remained the same.
I wonder why no one makes bolts like that? It seems like a good idea to me.
The other idea I have had that goes back 30 years (to a wooden mockup I built) is a chain fire prevention plate that would obviate the need to use greased wads or grease over the projectile.
We know that most chainfires are caused by loose caps on the rear of the cylinder rather than from the front of the chambers of the cylinder. Where fire from one cap enters past the loose or missing cap on another nipple and sets that chamber off too. This usually happens when you have fired a round or two and don't realize some of your caps have come off because you were using looser #11 caps instead of #10's, or because you neglected to pinch your #11 caps so they would fit the nipples tighter. So that when you fire again, the fire from your percussion cap enters into an adjacent nipple that has become uncapped.
It is not exactly rare, but it is an infrequent occurrence and can be dangerous. It did happen to me back in the '70's on the very first time I ever fired a BP revolver. Luckily I had just loaded only two cylinders on my first BP revolver, a Walker clone. I fired once and then when I fired the second loaded cylinder, it was just a "snap" of the percussion cap.
After pointing the revolver downward to ensure it wasn't a hang fire, at an angle away from my face, I inspected the chamber and saw it was empty. The flame between the barrel to cylinder gap had entered into the adjacent chamber (because I hadn't used a greased wad or greased over the ball) and set it off along with the chamber I meant to shoot. Luckily that adjacent chamber was not blocked by anything and the round just fired out alongside the barrel. But an unnerving experience on my very first shot of a BP revolver so many years ago. After that I used greased wads or grease or crisco or bore butter over the balls.
So although most occurrences of "chainfiring" occur from the nipple end, as you can see, they can easily also occur from the cylinder chamber end too.
So back then in the mid '70's I started thinking about how this could be prevented without having to use greased wads or grease over the balls and came up with this idea. I made a wooden prototype that I still have that you can see in the below pics. To this day I have questions about if it would work as I envision it should. It still leaves the bottom cylinder chamber exposed (for loading) and if not fitted tightly against the cylinder, it could still allow chamber end chain firing. But if made correctly and from the proper fire and explosion proof materials, I think it could have possibilities.
With no mods to the revolver in any way. It fits over the cylinder pin and also fits over the forcing cone so it will not rotate. My idea was to have some sort of asbestos material on the rear of this plate that could be greased. That way it would be lubricated so the cylinder would turn against it and also the grease would help prevent fire from one cylinder from entering behind and between the plate and into another cylinder. The problem is, the force and flame coming from the front of the cylinder may cut through any such material just as it will cut through the material of a sandbag rest from the barrel to cylinder gap explosive force.
The force and flame may prevent this idea from working like I would hope it should. But that is unproven because I never continued my experiments on it and I never progressed past making a wooden concept mockup to make a steel one or even hard plastic one with greased material on the back side of it. A durable material other than steel for the plate might be better just in case it did fail and a chainfire occured. That way the chainfire would destroy the plate without blowing up the cylinder whereas a steel plate holding in a multiple chainfire behind it could be a nasty little bomb. Gotta think safety here.
The proper flame proof material on the back of the plate that could withstand the cutting force of the explosion may work. Maybe some type of kevlar or something similar. Maybe I'll get the time to play around with it again sometime. But I'll be sure to tie the revolver down and pull the trigger with an extended lanyard cord in a cheap BP if I do, just in case.
Anyway, here's a few recent pictures of my old wooden mockup so you can see how it worked and fit.
Wooden top edge broke off over the many years since the 1970's of clattering around in one of my parts drawers.
The wooden mockup was made to fit my old 1851 colt clone which is long gone. When I put it on my current 1860 clone, the barrel would not go all the way back to the frame. (See the gap at the bottom of the barrel to frame engagement). But you can still get the basic idea and this could be remedied if I made another one to fit.
Ah well, that's enough of my bored musings for one day.
Hope I didn't bore you. Sometimes I tend to write long ones.
.
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