Cracked forcing cone? (see pic)

C

Carmady

New member
That looks like a crack to me. What do you think?

Edit: on second thought, it might be the edge/corner of the flat part of the of the bottom.
 

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  • a 13 fc crack.jpg
    a 13 fc crack.jpg
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I can't tell; more info on the gun and ammo involved would help. Example: A medium frame .38/357 (Model 19) with very hot loads of jacketed bullets is almost a recipe for a cracked forcing cone. A heavy frame (Model 28) with mild loads would be extremely unlikely to see any damage like that.

Jim
 
It's a S&W 13 on GunBroker, don't know anything about the ammo used.

When the picture is enlarged it's easier (for me) to see the flat spot they machine around 6:00, and I thought it was a crack. Something looks iffy around 12:00-1:00, but that might just be lead or something.
 
Doubt it. They usually crack right at 6 o'clock. Gun is filthy so can't tell anything. Before doing anything thoroughly clean.
 
Sorry, you have to provide a much better photo.

Something with better lighting that is in focus.

This is what a typical cracked forcing cone looks like. Notice it runs right down the center of the forcing cone, right down the center of the relief cut for the cylinder gas ring. This is the spot where the forcing cone is the thinnest.


crackedm19forcingcone2kg3_zpssnheifzh.jpg
 
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I've cracked my share of forcing cones on the K-Frame S&Ws. Caused by using a lot of lead ammo. You really need to get the lead out using a Lewis Lead Remover from time to time. This helps.
 
I've cracked my share of forcing cones on the K-Frame S&Ws. Caused by using a lot of lead ammo.
Click to expand...
That's the first I've heard of lead causing throat cracking. How many have you cracked? I've shot predominantly lead alloy bullets through my Smiths, with loads ranging from mild to wild, for over 50 years with no cracking. I'd be interested in your source of that bit of information. Thanks in advance, Rod
 
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Rarely, continuing to shoot a revolver with a cracked forcing cone or even an attempt to remove the barrel will crack the frame and that, boys and girls, is finis for the gun.

Jim
 
Could do. Would it work to cut the barrel tenon off flush with the inside of the frame before trying to unscrew? There are some other machinists' tricks that could salvage the frame.
 
Rarely, continuing to shoot a revolver with a cracked forcing cone or even an attempt to remove the barrel will crack the frame and that, boys and girls, is finis for the gun.
Click to expand...
But - - if you can't shoot it or try to replace the barrel isn't that the same thing as fini?
 
Poor photo, indeed.

However, it is reported that cracked or eroded/pitted/damaged forcing cones related from the use of smaller grain projectiles (example, 110 - 125 grain in 357) being pushed with heavier charges of slower burning powders. However, I've also read reports of forcing cone damage even with the use of heavier projectiles as well.
 
welding supply shop

Welding supply shop should have some dye penetrant which could be used to determine if it is a crack. You will need to get the developer also. A can of penetrant will last a long time unless you are a welder.
 
I would resolve my doubt about that crack by forgetting about that Model 13 and looking for one with a better looking forcing cone. If that's the seller's photo you are showing us, why do you suppose he left it dirty when posting it for sale? Perhaps to cover up a crack? I would look elsewhere for a nicer gun.
 
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