Coupla factoids from the range today

D

Doc Hoy

New member
1) This is a first! I took the ROA along and DID NOT shoot it. Too busy playing with the short barrel 1858 Remington and the Walker.

2) I shot six cylinders in the Remington. I deliberately did nothing between cylinders. I use half and half Crisco and Toilet donuts for bullet lube and over the bullets in the chambers. I load with a press so the cylinder comes out after six shots. (I always load all six). I don't use wads. But I did not wipe the pistol down, I did not spray it with lube...Nothing. I had zero binding, zero sluggish operation....Very smooth....In fact this .36 is the closest Remington I own to being able to swap out the cylinders like Eastwood did in Pale Rider.

3) I used CCI 10s in the Remington and the Walker with not one misfire.
 
Heh, heh, heh . . . . what did I tell ya Doc? You're gonna looooooove that .36 Remy . . . . . and I do mean Looooooooooooooooooooooooooove it! Glad you had a good time shooting it . . . . the only difference is that in mine, I use either lubed wads or leather wads soaked in the crisco/beeswax (just because I always have) . . . I use the same formula that you do . . . 1 pound of Crisco to 1 toilet ring. I don't have a loading press so I just load it the conventional way and my experience with mine matches yours. I love my '51 Navy but sometimes I'm "unfaithful" and shoot the Remy just because it's so much fun! :)

How did your other "cannon" perform?
 
As Ronald Reagan always said, "Well....."

I was not aware of this....But I found that the Walker does not shoot very high at 25 yards. POA is very close to POI...I would say not more than three inches max. Other Walker shooters, chime in please.....Have I uncovered some new and revolutionary development that virtually everyone else in the western hemisphere already knows about?:o
 
Interesting report, It is nice when things go smoothly and you can just injoy shooting. I went to the range yesterday and used the balls that I cast a couple of weeks ago. Just shot my 1858 Rem. and for the first time I used Crisco instead of Bore Butter. I stopped using the felt wads and I changed from CCI #11 caps to Remington #10 caps and I too did not have any misfires or lockups. Last weekend I had a problem with the gun getting stiff. The caps also fit better and all of them fired the first time. I think not using the wads under the ball gave me nore consistancy and accuracy.
 
I might try rhe toliet ring + Crisco also but fyi toilet rings these day don't contain much if any bees wax.
 
mrappe, The current toilet bowl rings do not contain beeswax but the material they do contain is from ?low? enough in the cracking tower to be compatible with black powder. It works well.
 
NOZ and MrAppe

Regarding the toilet rings, I became aware of this as a result of diligent reading of the posts of the experts on this forum. I think this is a hanger on from earlier days in shooting BP. Another myth is the use of weather stripping for wads as it is made of wool. Weather stripping has not been made of wool since Kitty was a cat. It may still work okay for wads but not because it is wool.
 
One thing I've found with the 58 Rem is that if you use any kind of oil on the axis pin it'll tighten up after a single cylinder.

Conversely if you use grease it'll run for 4~5 cylinders before tightening. Based on that I use grease, any grease as it doesn't seem to matter whether it's the expensive factory stuff, or the home brewed el-cheapo kind.:D
 
I found the same thing in regards to the cylinder pin. On mine, oiling it just didn't cut it - it soon fouled and caused problems. I have tried several different things from heavy grease to my crisco/beeswax (toilet ring whatever it is made of) and that seems to work the best on mine. When target shooting, I've just developed the habit of removing the pin/cylinder after three cylinders are shot, cleaning it and regreasing it from a tin I carry of the crisco/wax mix. I've read and heard of some who have taken their Remington cylinder pins and carefully ground a spiral groove or a series of grooves around the pin to act as "grease grooves" (for want of a better word). I haven't done that to mine as I just remove the pin and cylinder after shooting three cylinders through it. In Doc's case, where he is used to using a loading press, I would imagine that a swipe with a cleaning rag on the pin and/or running a brush through the cylinder pin hole in the cylinder would insure that a person wouldn't have any binding problems.

Doc - I found your findings of the POA and POI on the Walker interesting and hope that others will share their experiences with their's as well. Someday, I'm going to "graduate" to the .44 caliber - probably a Remy first but I sure like the looks of the Walker as well. In my case though, with my "shooting ability", I'd probably score better if I just threw the revolver at the target than I would throw lead downrange! :D
 
I do pretty much the same, but I use a Q-Tip to run fresh grease through the hole in the cylinder then wipe the axis pin & cylinder face (in that order) so I don't get too much "goop" but do remove & soften most of the build up & re-lube at the same time. It takes about 10 seconds to do this way.
 
Some info on ASM Walkers

I had one off-sized nipple in the Walker and it required me backing the nipple out a quater turn in order to get the hammer to contact the nipple. Otherwise the chamber misfired each time.

I went to all of the ASM parts sources and was not able to find any nipples. I could not even get them to tell me the specs on the nipples. VTI, DeerCreek, DGW, Taylors. All were a dry hole.

Finally wound up at "October Country Muzzleloading". Bought six nipples for 3.96 a piece. Got them in two days. Perfect fit.

Treso 11-50-13 "Italian Walker" is marked on the pack.
 
Try using bullet lube on the arbor/basepin. It works better for me than any of the "lighter" lubes.
 
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