KS,
Knock the chip off of your shoulder and relax. If I have offended you with my glib statements, I apologize.
Ok, I don't know for certain what is in Green Magic, but I would bet HEAVILY that the only magic in Green Magic is a large proportion of water by weight.
Why?
Because you need water, in one form or another, to remove corrosive priming salts. There's no other way around it.
Potassium chloride is fully soluable only in water, or compounds containing water.
It's not soluable in oil, and depending on the strength is only mildly soluable in alcohol (the less water there is in the alcohol, the more insoluable the NaCL is).
It's also insoluable in acetone and other typical degreasing/cleaning compounds.
Again, I'd bet heavily that you are, without realizing it, putting water in your gun.
Using water to clean a firearm is not the big bugaboo that you seem to think that it is.
Water was the only cleaning solution used in the age of black powder, because it was readily available and it was effective.
The same is true of firearms in the corrosive primer era, even up through the last major use of corrosive primed ammo in American military service. GI bore cleaner, by weight, was over 60 percent plain water.
As long as you clean properly and don't let your guns soaking wet, you're not going to come even remotely close to hurting your gun by cleaning with hot water.
I've been shooting flintlock and blackpowder guns for years, and like Carlyle I have a device that attaches the hot water faucet to the touchhole.
After a day of shooting black powder, which leaves a potassium salt equally as hygroscopic (and rust inducing) as potassium chloride, I hook up the barrel to the faucet and run blazing hot water through it until the exterior of the barrel is hot to the touch.
After that I run several patches through the bore, to get the last of any large droplets of water that may remain, and sit it in the corner to finish drying and cooling.
After that I lightly oil the bore, and I'm done.
With my SKS I follow much the same procedure after firing corrosive primed ammunition. I've got roughly 2,000 rounds of corrosive primed ammo through my SKS, and have never had a speck of rust in the gas system from either corrosive priming OR the hot water that I use to remove the corrosive priming residue.
Ah, look at this, a website that lists Green Magic cleaner.
http://www.parish-supply.com/green_magic.htm
I don't know if this is the stuff that Centerfire Systems is selling, but if it's the same stuff, just repackaged, this is interesting...
Contained are mild organic acids, synthetic wetting agents and emulsifiers, and couplers whose special mixture yields the first Truly all purpose cleaner.
Mild organic acids -- Not sure what they would use, maybe even lactic acid, but I'd actually be mildly worried about those if I were to leave them in the bore too long.
Synthetic wetting agents and emulsifiers -- just another name for detergents.
Couplers -- No clue, but I'd bet that's just another name for water.
Look, clean your guns any way that works for you, but don't be fooled into thinking that you're not using water when you're cleaning after shooting corrosive primers. You're just paying more for it.
