converting t/C flintlock to percussion

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bamaranger

New member
I have a T/C Hawken rifle (kit gun) that was assembled in PA as a factory flintlock. I have always wanted to convert this rifle to percussion.

It would appear that to do so, one method would be to acquire a T/C percussion lock/hammer and I see those on ebay. Then I believe I would need a T/C snail barrel plug to take a nipple. Those seem very difficult to obtain.
Track of the Wolf lists them...... out of stock. T/C apparently will not sell them according to online chatter.

Am I on the right path for this, or should I look at a drum nipple arrangement?
The T/C rifles were pretty common (many neglected) on the used racks when inlines came out, but I do not see them as much anymore. I suppose I could watch for a used rifle for parts, but I suspect I've missed the boat on that.
 
Your flintlock is more desirable than a percussion, and worth more. Why not make a straight up trade for a percussion, or sell the flinter and buy a percussion?
 
I switched flint/percussion between a CVA pistol and rifle. Going from flint is easy, just drill and tap for a drum/nipple. Going to flint is more work making a vent to fit the drum hole.
 
worth

I've always been of the belief that a flint Hawken style rifle was a replica of nothing........ie, the Hawken rifles were largely percussion. The rifle is a flintlock because PA mandates (still?) flintlocks only for their primitive weapons deer season. So this rifle, purchased up there, assembled by somebody who did a good job, is a flintlock. Many years ago, I paid $100 for it. Recently I saw several T/C percussion rifles in equally good shape, for five times that. I was pretty surprised. What might a fair price be for a used T/C flintlock? Again, many years ago, when I did ponder selling it, I could not get any reasonable offer.

I find the flintlocks hard to shoot well, although when I first acquired the rifle and shot it a bit, I was surprised the accuracy I got. But the idea of the wrong lock goes against what I think a Hawken should be, so I'm pondering converting it. But it's purely a project......more time on my hands these days. Currently, I don't hunt BP. But If I did, it would be with a percussion rifle.

Worth and projects aside......is a lock/hammer and correct barrel plug the correct and easiest path?
 
Best way to convert it is to buy a new barrel and lock.

One thing about these guys is that some of them have a separate breechplug and drum that attaches to the barrel and not a barrel, breechplug and a drum that is screwed into the barrel. It's not that easy to convert.
 
I've always been of the belief that a flint Hawken style rifle was a replica of nothing........ie, the Hawken rifles were largely percussion. The rifle is a flintlock because PA mandates (still?) flintlocks only for their primitive weapons deer season.
Click to expand...

All that is probably true, but when there's a percussion cap shortage and you still need to shoot, a flintlock comes in quite handy.
 
Removing a snail breech can create it's own set of problems. They weren't meant to be removed. If you simply must convert it buy a TC barrel and lock off ebay and sell yours.
 
I change mine out all the time. "Its my 3 barrel gun."
1. (Factory) flint barrel 1-48
2. Custom ordered T/C (Factory) Percussion barrel 1-66
3. G/Mtn LRH percussion quick twist with 1-28.

Frankly: I wouldn't remove the breech plug if I were you. Many times when done the appearance of that fluid match of breech plug flats to barrel hexagon flats is disturbed. Only way I know to resolve such misalignment back to its factory appearance is to re-file the flats from breech to muzzle then re-blue the entire barrel assembly.

My suggestion: Buy a used T/C percussion lock from a Renegade or Hawken model.
Buy complete 15/16s Hawken barrel assembles only.
It's a simple swap then when wanting to change between the two styles of shooting.. Do-not buy Renegade barrels as they are bigger in size.> 1" verses the Hawkens typical 15/16s barrel size.
 
And your are right.
I too won't deer hunt with my Hawken flint barrel installed. It isn't totally reliable. I either use my T/C patch/ball barrel or my G/Mtn quick twist depending on the terrain I'm hunting on.
Field shooting the G/M barrel has a outstanding distant reach where as in close 75 yards or less the Patch Ball barrel has proven to be more than once. A accurate deer get'er that doesn't create much Blood Shot.
 
If I were in your shoes, I'd just pick up another barrel and lock. Simple swap that way and you have the option to switch between the two if the mood strikes you. Buying TC components is sort of an investment these days, as the prices are shooting up quickly since they are not available from TC anymore.
 
true

Thanks so much for replies. I've looked and priced T/C items and cannot believe the prices I see.....but locks and barrels are out there and a guy can still get them.

The advice regards the breech plug is duly noted, and I will not remove it from the flintlock barrel.

When the inline muzzleloaders hit, sidelock rifles, T/C's, were I dime a dozen around here, everybody dumped their traditional rifle for the new breed as a hunting tool. I saw lots of them....many pretty rough.....cheap. I had no idea T/C quit making sidelock rifles. If the beaters didn't get scrapped in the pawn shops, serious BP guys must have bought them up for parts, 'cause T/C's are scarce now.
 
Percussion T/Cs are common and relatively inexpensive. I see them frequently for $250-$350. I would buy a percussion one and keep the flintlock unless you really don't have a use for it anymore.
 
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