Consolidated Omnibus Pre-Season Hodgepodge Smorgasbord of hunting questions

F

FirstFreedom

Moderator
:D

OK, I'm gonna have a lot, as usual. Others may too. Couple to start with...

1. I made some scent killer from local flora. I put it into a Windex spray bottle. Before I poured it in, I ran hot soapy water several times through the bottle & sprayed it a dozen or more times, then repeated with just hot water until seemingly clean/rinsed. But the windex had ammonia in it, which deer can sense very well. Will there still be trace amounts of ammonia in the tube, making the whole exercise of spraying myself counterproductive, even though I cleaned & rinsed it pretty thoroughly?

2. I just bought a "Hunter's Hand Auger", for starting holes in trees, in order to put screw-in steel tree stand climbing steps. Anyone have one - do they work? I'm assuming cottonwoods are soft enough that I won't have to haul a cordless drill & extra battery pack into the woods..

3. Those drip-scrape hanging bottle thingies that you can buy and hang in trees, that only drip during daylight hours, but not at night - they supposedly 'train' the deer to visit the scrapes during daylight hours. Do they work as advertised?

4. Gerber's new "Carnivore" blood trail handlamp thingy - does it work to make blood stand out as bright red much better than other products, as advertised?

Answer by number please. :)
 
I think you used up your limit of words in the title.:D

1- Possibly, but I doubt it. Ammonia smell is comon in urine. As long as you don't smell like full strength ammonia you should be OK.

2- Cottonwoods are soft enough you shouldn't need the auger. Just make sure you get through the bark and into the wood before you put any weight on the step.

Don't know anything about the other gizmos, sorry.
 
FF - I am curious about the headlamp thing as well. We still haul a white gas lantern with us just for night tracking, as it makes the blood stand out for some magic reason. I don't know it it works with propane lanterns, because the tradition is the gas one. I would love to ditch that old stinking pain in the *** if the headlamps do the same thing.
 
About that hunters hand auger, I assume you are talking about the T-handled, drill bit looking one. When you buy steps, look at the points. There is a big difference between brands and types. When I'm setting up a semi-permanent hanging stand, I use the heavy steps with the large screw points. You need a hand auger or portable drill to get these in or you are going to sweat. When I'm just going up a random tree for a couple of hours or an afternoon, I use the lighter, quick start type. These aren't quite as secure as the big ones, but you don't need any extra tools to put them in a tree, even in a hardwood tree. Extra tools means more weight, something I try to minimize every chance I get. I've never had one of these pull out on me, but I'm only using it twice, going up and coming down.
I had one of the t-handled augers. I only used it a couple of times and it helps, but it's still alot of work. Since I usually setup my stands preseason, I've gotten into the habit of using a drill. They also make a tool that you put the step in that acts like an extension handle. These work pretty well, too. Other than that, I use the quick start ones. You'd be suprised how quickly and quitely you can monkey up a tree with a little bit of practice.

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In the above image the steps on the left are the quickstart type. The green one is the sturdiest, but it is also the hardest to get in. The ones on the right I use a drill.

When I climb up and down any of these steps, like a rock climber, I only move one limb at a time. That way, if my foot slips or one of the steps pulls out, I'm still anchored with two limbs, if that makes any sense.

You can use a quickstart step to tap the hole for the heavy duty steps, btw.

42 days to go :D
 

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FF,

#1 No problem if you rinsed them first.

#2 Strap on pegs, seem to me to be a little easier to manage, while hanging from a tree with one hand. Just wrap them around, and synch them tight. These can also be put on while wearing gloves, so it keeps the scent off of your hands from being on the steps.

#3 I caught some pee from a couple of does that we raised, about 3 years ago, and put the pee in some camera film holders, filled with cotton. Drilled a hole in the bottom, and ran a string through it, so they could be tied, upside down. When I got to the woods, I simply tied them up on branches, and took the lid off,(cotton held the pee inside the holder, but lets the scent out.) Do not over fill or you will get it all over you. When you leave the woods simply put the lid back on, and take them back to camp with you.

This sounded like a good idea to me, but I really can't say it did much for my hunt that year. I tried this for 7 days in a row, and I don't think it really helped a whole lot, since I didn't see any bucks throw their head up and smell any of them (saw 4 bucks and none of them seemed to notice them)

#4 No info here. But sounds good in the sales catologue. If you buy one and use it, post the results, as I have a hard time seeing blood spots at night anymore.
 
as for the blood trailing, I take a spray bottle of hydrogen peroxide as alot of the leaf litter and standing grass has red speckles and can get confusing when the trail starts to run out. The spray will tell the truth, blood will foam up when sprayed.
~z
 
zeisloft said:
as for the blood trailing, I take a spray bottle of hydrogen peroxide as alot of the leaf litter and standing grass has red speckles and can get confusing when the trail starts to run out. The spray will tell the truth, blood will foam up when sprayed.
~z
Click to expand...


Also I've heard that a UV(blacklight)flashlight will make blood glow brightly.

Like these.

http://www.theledlight.com/UV.html



Michael.
 
Just posted another thread about lights and blood, and evidentally, the UV light will turn blood to black without spraying it first with Luminol. But a BLUE light is what you want to make blood actually glow on its own.
 
1) Ammonia is a base - wash with vineagar then soap and water, maybe distilled water?
2)I don't climb trees. ?
3) blue filter, I think I have seen them some where for mag-lites, Cabelas etc.
 
Found out yesterday that the Hand Auger works great for the tree stand screw-in footsteps, at least on cottonwoods. Dunno about harder wood. It's also advertised as doubling as a hole-maker in hard ground for your turkey decoy stake. So definitely pleased with that $8 purchase. :) And thanks, swampdog & others. I was using the thicker steps like the ones on the right in your picture. They are sturdier and thus preferable to me. At least on a soft tree like a cottonwood, the T-auger worked like a charm to get a hole started enough (say 1.25") to allow even the large steps to finish drilling in by hand turning the rest of the way.

Here's another question. If I'm out in the woods and am touching trees here and there with my hands, either accidentally or to help myself up a hill, my scent is planted there, and obviously a deer can come along and smell that. My question is, at what point is that no longer a concern, time-wise? How long does it take before the smell particles are so diluted that the deer can no longer detect it? I guess it would depend on whether & how much it rains, but in general - A day? Two days? A week? Two weeks? Longer?
 
I read a study one time, done at a university, that claims, the human oder is set down by skin cells that are continually falling from your skin. The scent on them can be detected up to 48 hours, after being placed on an object. I think that if you have a rain or even a heavy dew, that the time is cut down considerable. In dry weather like we're having this year, I think the deer are even more sensative to smell since food is going to be scarce.
It will be something I will be sure to think about when I start scouting this year, and will try to make sure I don't go to my area for at least 3 days before I hunt.
 
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