Conditioning holsters

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I have read online how holsters should be conditioned with mink oil. My question is, should this be done on the inside as well as the out side of the holster?
 
I use it on the inside. And try to clean it out thr best I can. A tooth brush works well for puting it on and a cloth over the brush to remove what did not rub in.Unless its a suede lined holster and I dont bother the inside... Hope this helps:D
 
Mink oil impact on holster?

I have had better luck with Neetsfoot oil - like used for baseball and softball gloves. I found mink oil sometimes makes the leather so soft that it looses it's pre-form, and while the pistol still fits, it doesn't have the grip it had when new. My experience with Neetsfoot oil is that it's a great conditioner and doesn't adversely effect the leather preform. Anyone here have a different experience?
 
Check with the holster maker - some makers specifically do not recommend applying mink or neetsfoot oil (or other oils) to their holsters because it softens the leather. For example, the Milt Sparks site says:
What can I do to maintain the appearance of my new leather?
Nothing much needs to be done other than an occasional waxing to help maintain appearance. That applies to items with the smooth-out finish only! Rough out finishes such as on our SS-2 and Summer Special holsters, should be left as is except for maybe an occasional wipe down with a damp cloth. Waxing and polishing the rough-out finish only serves to negate the gripping qualities of the rough-out surface of the holster.

You can disregard most of the advice put out on the various internet forums suggesting applications for holsters that are better suited for a pair of boots, or on a saddle. On holsters and belts of our manufacture- do not use silicone, oil, or any leather conditioning product that advertises itself as an aid to help soften leather- Period!

Angelus has a product we use called Lustre Cream and it is available in both cordovan and black. Fiebings, Carnauba wax is also a good protectorate for smooth leather, but will oxidize on the leather surface if not used or buffed occasionally.

One product we recommend wholeheartedly is Renaissance Wax. Renaissance can be purchased direct from the above link, or you can purchase it directly through us. It is the only product we have found that will not permanently discolor our tan colored finish and it works great on black and cordovan finishes as well! You can even use it on metal and wood. We generally stock the small, 65ml tin for resale, as we found that a little bit goes a long way.
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Brommeland:
Holster Care and Maintenance


To remove light dirt, simply use a slightly damp (nearly dry) soft cloth to wipe down your holster. If dirt is severe (such as sweat build up on an IWB) then a small amount of saddle soap on a damp cloth will be helpful. (Be sure to wipe off the saddle soap residue with a damp cloth when finished.)


To moisturize leather, the only products I recommend are Lexol Conditioner, (Do not use Lexol Cleaner or Lexol Neetsfoot Formula) or Propert’s Leather Balm. (Both of which can be found at western boot stores or shoe repair shops.) Simply apply a small amount (a few drops at most) with a soft cloth and rub it in. Wipe off any excess and you’re finished. This should not be required very often - once or twice a year should be sufficient under conditions of normal use.

Never apply shoe polish or oil of any kind to any Brommeland product.
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UBG:
If you desire to shine your leather products, use only a paste wax, such as Kiwi in the flat
cans. Buff to a shine. Never oil molded leather. It will soften the leather and take away retention.
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I have read online how holsters should be conditioned with mink oil. My question is, should this be done on the inside as well as the out side of the holster?
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Most of the makers of quality leather holsters absolutely recommend against using oil on their holsters. Before you put oil of any kind on your leather holster check with its maker and see what they recommend.

I will occasionally put some clear Kiwi wax on my leather holsters, buff 'em up, and let it go at that. Some of my holsters are fifteen years old and still look good and work good.
 
I am not a leather expert.

I read on a luger forum that to care for the old rigid luger holsters you should use Connolly Hide Care.
 
I've used Pecards on holsters for years. Just the right amount of protection without softening the holster. Kiwi works, too.

The trouble with using neetsfoot oil is that most products so marked, now, don't have real neetsfoot oil in them. Not sure that you can buy the real stuff now.
 
I make them...

I make holsters....and rifle slings, piles and piles of them!

Care: Go easy on the oil. VERY VERY VERY easy. A little goes a long way and you can turn a fine piece of leather into a blubbery chunk o' hide easily.

I like lexol, it works. (brown bottle). Again, a little goes a long way. No need to clean your holster and oil it daily. You just want to keep the hide "fed" with some natural oils.

PM or email with any questions!

Andy
 
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