riggins_83
New member
I hope people who are considering applying for their permit and purchasing a concealed carry firearm will find this useful.
1. Be realistic with what you’ll carry. Having a smaller caliber on you 90% of the time is better than having a larger caliber on 50% of the time. It’s common for people to purchase a handgun only to realize it’s too big and heavy for the method they wish to carry. Some people are willing to change the way they dress daily for the purpose of concealment, some aren’t. it’s a good idea to check out holsters and carry methods for a gun prior to deciding on a firearm. Be sure it’s a firearm you can operate well; if cycling the action takes all your strength it’s a bad choice.
2. Be prepared to wear a belt. I have many customers who want a paddle holster for concealed carry; the fact is most paddle holsters will wobble quite a bit and may come with the firearm when drawing. Find a good belt (such as the Galco duty belt) or a nice double stitched leather belt if preferred. A cheap cardboard enforced belt really isn’t sufficient. Pocket carrying is a way to bypass this issue.
3. Draw time is critical. I see way too many people carry in a shoulder holster under a zipped jacket or vest who even in an emergency would have a very slow draw. The same can be said for ankle holsters and purse carry in many cases. Many defensive shootings are 6 – 10 feet; if a person is approaching even at a walking pace that ground will be covered quickly. Pick something you can conceal and access quickly. Holsters such as ankle rigs are great for a backup gun however not the best choice for a primary holster.
4. Training is critical. Function testing the firearm and developing muscle memory will shave precious time in a defensive shooting. Ensure the firearm is functioning reliably with the ammo you’re carrying with; you’re used to the feel and can point and shoot. Train for the muscle memory portion at home with snaps caps if needed; practice drawing and pointing. You should be able to pick a target and have a sight picture without searching for the sight. I often practice (with snap caps) by picking a target on the wall and drawing with my eyes closed. If I can consistently have a sight picture of my target I know I’ve trained well.
5. There’s a difference between a gun “printing” and creating a wave or lump in the shirt. A gun printing means the shape of a firearm is noticeable; if concealed well a larger gun may look like nothing more than another wave in the shirt. Choose a carry style and firearm you can conceal and have a good range of motion; few things are more annoying than having difficultly moving about for fear of the firearm showing.
6. Trigger control is critical. When training if you’re flinching and aren’t able to solve it quickly have someone put snap caps (dummy rounds) randomly within the magazine of live rounds. This helps you identify the way you’re flinching (and how to clear a misfire).
7. Don’t trust your life to battery operated accessories, namely laser sights or laser grips. While some have laser grips activated when squeezing the grip (such as Crimson Trace) many (such as those on the Smith & Wesson) require a separate button to be pressed to activate the laser. Develop the muscle memory to shoot your firearm. The problem with using the laser even for training is many people begin to use it as a crutch. I had a customer purchasing a laser equipped handgun once say “this is perfect, I just have to put the laser on what I’m aiming at, no way I can miss.” Even if this was the case such a statement nearly guarantees a slow target acquisitions time (especially if having to turn on a laser). During the day it’s hard to see in bright light, in low light it identifies very specifically where you are shooting from.
Trust your muscle memory once it’s developed and be comfortable with what you carry.
1. Be realistic with what you’ll carry. Having a smaller caliber on you 90% of the time is better than having a larger caliber on 50% of the time. It’s common for people to purchase a handgun only to realize it’s too big and heavy for the method they wish to carry. Some people are willing to change the way they dress daily for the purpose of concealment, some aren’t. it’s a good idea to check out holsters and carry methods for a gun prior to deciding on a firearm. Be sure it’s a firearm you can operate well; if cycling the action takes all your strength it’s a bad choice.
2. Be prepared to wear a belt. I have many customers who want a paddle holster for concealed carry; the fact is most paddle holsters will wobble quite a bit and may come with the firearm when drawing. Find a good belt (such as the Galco duty belt) or a nice double stitched leather belt if preferred. A cheap cardboard enforced belt really isn’t sufficient. Pocket carrying is a way to bypass this issue.
3. Draw time is critical. I see way too many people carry in a shoulder holster under a zipped jacket or vest who even in an emergency would have a very slow draw. The same can be said for ankle holsters and purse carry in many cases. Many defensive shootings are 6 – 10 feet; if a person is approaching even at a walking pace that ground will be covered quickly. Pick something you can conceal and access quickly. Holsters such as ankle rigs are great for a backup gun however not the best choice for a primary holster.
4. Training is critical. Function testing the firearm and developing muscle memory will shave precious time in a defensive shooting. Ensure the firearm is functioning reliably with the ammo you’re carrying with; you’re used to the feel and can point and shoot. Train for the muscle memory portion at home with snaps caps if needed; practice drawing and pointing. You should be able to pick a target and have a sight picture without searching for the sight. I often practice (with snap caps) by picking a target on the wall and drawing with my eyes closed. If I can consistently have a sight picture of my target I know I’ve trained well.
5. There’s a difference between a gun “printing” and creating a wave or lump in the shirt. A gun printing means the shape of a firearm is noticeable; if concealed well a larger gun may look like nothing more than another wave in the shirt. Choose a carry style and firearm you can conceal and have a good range of motion; few things are more annoying than having difficultly moving about for fear of the firearm showing.
6. Trigger control is critical. When training if you’re flinching and aren’t able to solve it quickly have someone put snap caps (dummy rounds) randomly within the magazine of live rounds. This helps you identify the way you’re flinching (and how to clear a misfire).
7. Don’t trust your life to battery operated accessories, namely laser sights or laser grips. While some have laser grips activated when squeezing the grip (such as Crimson Trace) many (such as those on the Smith & Wesson) require a separate button to be pressed to activate the laser. Develop the muscle memory to shoot your firearm. The problem with using the laser even for training is many people begin to use it as a crutch. I had a customer purchasing a laser equipped handgun once say “this is perfect, I just have to put the laser on what I’m aiming at, no way I can miss.” Even if this was the case such a statement nearly guarantees a slow target acquisitions time (especially if having to turn on a laser). During the day it’s hard to see in bright light, in low light it identifies very specifically where you are shooting from.
Trust your muscle memory once it’s developed and be comfortable with what you carry.
