Complete AR Platform and FL Forum newbie...be gentle

R

RICE ETR

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I finally made the plunge on this....but after reading some threads on here, I am beginning to have second thoughts.
Anywho, I originally want a savage varmint rifle in 308 but then got a wild hair in me and had to have a DPMS LR 308 as soon as I saw it in person...I wanted a do it all type gun, deer hunt, varmint, mild-ish long range and just plain fun to shoot. I also wanted accuracy and these overall seem to perform quite well with the right ammo.
With all that said, any of you DPMS guys that did the barrel break-in, did you actually pull the top half apart so you could clean from breech to muzzle each time or did you use a bore snake? I use bore snakes on my shotguns and rimfires but would think rod/jag would be best for this....no?
Which bore guide, one-piece rod and solvent did you use on the SS barrel?
Did I make a mistake getting this model? I wanted it bare bones to save cost and then accesorize it myself. Does not having the fluted barrel hurt anything besides weight and maybe more surface area for cooling? I guess it would be a little stiffer...I dunno.
Sorry for the blabbing, love the forum, thanks for any input.
-Jarrod
 

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Welcome to the site!

Nice rifle. It should serve you well. :D

I'm not a proponent of "break in". Just shoot your rifle normally and clean it well at the end of the day.

I pull the bolt carrier group and charging handle and clean from the breach using this bore guide and a Dewey cleaning rod. I use Butch's Bore Shine as a solvent.

If your trigger is stiff (many DPMS triggers are), consider this trigger group. It is the best value (reliability/cost) in a trigger for AR style rifles on the market.

If you reload, try 175 SMKs over 41.5gr of IMR-4895 or 42.0gr of Varget. You will be impressed by the small groups.
 
Wow!! Slam dunk on the response....thanks for taking the time to get the links for me....so easy a caveman can do it now :) Ordering as I type this.

I don't reload as of right now but am going to get a complete set-up from a guy at work so I can start. Thanks for the load info, I will for sure try it out.
From what I have read on the net, the DPMS seems to usually be gentle on the brass so it will be a good time to get into the reloading world.

Did I say thanks yet? lol..thanks!

-Jarrod
 
And don't sweat the fluting. it's a fashion accessory more than anything. I read it does help with cooling some, but they've been making AR barrels for a very very long time without them and people still love 'em.
 
ndking1126... Good point and that makes me feel better, thanks.

AKsRul.e.... Thanks for the link,...being male, I failed to even look through the hard copy I got with the gun, I couldn't wait to unwrap the expensive part of the case...aka the rifle itself, lol. Yea the manual explains a lot, especially when you read it..doh!
 
I have a new DPMS Oracle and as far as "breaking in" the weapon you just need to shoot it and then clean it. For me I clean it like I did my service weapon. If you don't do a good job then you will (down the road) have problems. Find a cleaning method that you like and get comfortable with breaking your weapon down and get to know each part. This way you will learn to clean it faster and know which areas get the most dirty. Also you will learn to notice any type of wear and tear and you can head of any problems ahead of time. Happy shooting.
 
Well I got the trigger mentioned above....wow what an easy install, these guns are great to tinker with. It took me longer to find my 1/8" punch. I like the two stage feature and it is much lighter and crisper than the factory trigger, not to mention a mucho cleaner break.

I also put on a hogue rubberized grip, what an improvement.

You guys recommend break free CLP on all the appropriate internals? I have seen everything from syn motor oil, grease, slip 2000 mentioned...but then not to use penetrating oils...now I'm confused.
 
Break Free CLP will be fine, I use a little gun oil on the bolt assemble and down the barrel after cleaning, just for rust pervention (but CLP will do that also). I am just anal when it comes to rust. But your SS barrel should not need it. I can't speak to the 308 but the 15's bolt assemblies should be run wet (little oil).

Jim
 
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