Comments on a S&W M637

Randy C.

Inactive
I just bought a new S&W M637. I have owned and used handguns all my adult life but am in deep respect of the knowledge here. I read about many snubbies but never see anything on the M637. I have a M19 4 in and wanted a 38+p snubbie the style and price got me on the M637. Most of the posts talk about the M 638. What say you all?
 
You see little of them as they are terrible. Sorry. Mine kicked like a mule with +P 38 Specials, the finish peeled like a grape, it developed timing issues, the grip split open and the hammer and trigger were not what I desired. The S&W M637 was the worst POJ J frame 38 Special I have ever had the displeasure to own and shoot. I traded mine off at a gunshow at my gunsmiths suggestion. Horrible revolver. I replaced it with a S&W M10 6 shot +P capable 38 Special 2" and RB revolver in blue.
 
I carry one every day. Put about a thousand rounds through it so far (I know, I know, that's nothing). It does kick, but that's the nature of a 14 oz gun. Tight as the day I bought it, accurate as I could want. Grips are the Uncle Mikes that it came with, and if they split I'll blame Uncle Mikes and buy something else.

I don't know about the finish peeling, but I sure do abuse mine (put handcuff around the frame and behind the trigger when I leave it in my car) and it's not peeling yet.

I think it's a great gun, and I'd buy another.
 
Well, I carry a 442 & don't have any problem with recoil. But when I bought a 637 for range shooting & put Crimson Trace lasergrips on it, I found the recoil on the 637 smashed the trigger-guard into my middle finger. Some how the spacing wasn't right. So I sold it at a gunshow.

Now, checking the S&W site, I find the company is selling them with a grip that eliminates the spacing behind the trigger-guard.
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the finish peeled like a grape

Wait a second... the 637 is not plated. It's an aluminum alloy, so I don't see how it can 'peel'.

I'm not knowlegeable enough to call BS on this one. Perhaps someone could enlighten me on how an alloy gun, not plated, can 'peel'.
 
There is a clearcote on the aluminum, and the use of some solvents on this cosmetic coating cause it to "peel" or "flake" off.
 
I don't have the 637, but I have the 37

blued version, 70's (80's?) manufacture. My first J frame, 'cause I didn't want to spend $600 or more on a 340 and find out I didn't like it. Got the 37, shot it a bit, and like it..and guess what, just bought a 360PD on Gunbroker for $450 slightly used (about five rounds from the looks of it).
Now I'm looking forward to adding a 340PD as soon as I find one in my price range (cheap).
And will probably look for a 60 one of these days...
 
I've had one for about a year now and it has been just fine for me and it goes to the range everytime i do, and is my 90% of the time carry gun. as far as recoil, i have shot winchester silvertips, hydra-shocks and 158 gr lswchp +p's out of it and honestly didnt find the recoild to be uncontrollable, unmanageable, are even close to painful. i will say to avoid Gunscrubber solvent if you want to keep the clear coat on it. mine started to peel after using Gunscrubber for the first time. I now stick to good old Hoppe's no. 9 (and should have never strayed from it :) ). my 2 cents.
 
You see little of them as they are terrible. Sorry. Mine kicked like a mule with +P 38 Specials, the finish peeled like a grape, it developed timing issues, the grip split open and the hammer and trigger were not what I desired. The S&W M637 was the worst POJ J frame 38 Special I have ever had the displeasure to own and shoot.

+1. My experience almost exactly.
 
They were called the "Chief's Special Airweight" before they went to the numbering system that, is.

As such, they are as good as any S&W snubby, which is excellent. My beef with the model is the presence of an external hammer, which I believe is a needless redundancy on the dimunitive sized Smiths.

Through experimentation I have found that for anybody with normal to larger hands the tiny grip does not allow enough of a purchase to use proper single action form. You end up holding the gun with the middle finger and half of the ring, at best, with your index finger precariously trying to reach for the trigger. When the gun recoils, it smacks your middle finger with the trigger guard because it was not properly supported. Adding hand filling grips defeats the concealability of the revolver.

The answer is simple: fire DA only and you'll find your accuracy will surprise you, the gun will recoil less because it is well supported and it will be concealable, except for that pesky hammer. And it works just fine with the factory boot grips - another plus.

After you can fire decent groups DA only with enough speed to satisfy you, then you will probably find yourself looking for one of the hammerless Centennial models - 640/42/342 etc. I think S&W still makes the hammer snubbies as an inside joke; many are bought as badges of rank or nightstand guns that the folks have no intention of ever firing, except - just in case.

Sort of expensive male jewelry. YMMV :)
 
After you can fire decent groups DA only with enough speed to satisfy you, then you will probably find yourself looking for one of the hammerless Centennial models

Well, I've seen the light as far as a hammer spur on a snub goes, and rather then get a new gun, I'm going to get my 637's hammer bobbed at first opportunity. I called my gunsmith today; he'll do it for $40.00. I know, I could do it myself with a dremel, but I'd just as soon have someone do it whose done it before and can make it not look like a hack job. I asked him if it might cause a failure to fire issue, and he said that as long as it had the factory spring, which has more power than is needed, it would not be a problem. Still, I'll test it thorougly after the bob job, and if it's ruined, well, I'll get some spring work done or just have a proper, spur-less hammer put in it.
 
My snubbie-carry is a Taurus 85 Ultra-Lite .32Spl.+p. 2" 15oz's. Black frame, pearl grips, gold trigger, hammer, and cylinder release. I have put about 100 rounds through it using Winchester 125GR +p JHP. It's a nice shooting little gun. Light trigger action in both SA & DA. Oh, It's a little loud... I carry it in warm weather, and on days when I'm too lazy to strap on my CZ P01.

For carry I have tried auto's namely the Sig. 232sl, Browning BDA, and Bersa Thunder. I traded all of them, and I'm pretty comfortable carrying my Taurus 85 in a pocket holster. :D
http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12758
 
340pd distance cousim to the 637 or 638

IMHO the 12 oz .357mag is an outstanding gun for what it was desing for. To shoot little and carry a lot. The distance you are going to use a snobbie is 15' or less. Yes I can be accurate at 25' but I don't want to stand there and take 3 sec to squeeze one shot. It Kicks like a mule, but so what, it's not meant to be a fun gun to shoot besides at the distance you shoot you can get a fast second shot and still be accurate (.38+p). It is accurate, fast, well built, and very very conceilable. Overman is right about the hammer, get a hammerless it perform better all around even from inside a coat pocket. I use hoppe nine for cleaning and never had problem with the finish.

I highly recommend this gun as a snubbie. I'm considering a 638 for my wife.

Double O
 
I had a 637 for a short while. My big problem is that the cylinder would get like smudge marks on it that would not come off. I couldn't stand it and the finish was poor quality compared to the other snubbies with this type of finish.
 
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