Colt Walker Mainspring

M

MoGas1341

New member
Hey everyone, I have a 2nd Gen Colt that I disassembled today for cleaning and upon doing the normal breakdown, I left the hammer in the full cock position so that I could clean the face of and underneath the hammer. I placed the frame with the hammer cocked off to the side, soaking in cleaning solvent, as I proceeded begin cleaning the barrel and cylinder. No longer than 10 minutes later I heard a "clack" :eek: but nothing on my cleaning bench moved, fell to the floor or otherwise, so I continued about my business.

Upon going to reassemble the revolver, I went to decock the hammer and it was extremely loose and upon recocking it there was no resistance or tension (mind you the pistol was not reassembled). I thought merely that somehow the mainspring became disconnected but much to my dismay when I removed the handle/housing from the receiver 3 pieces fell onto the bench :mad: The mainspring broke into 3 pieces! I couldn't believe it.

Has anyone else had this happen with a Walker or similar model? and if so, because it is a Colt blackpowder 2nd Gen type revolver which are no longer made, what is the proper mainspring to buy to replace the broken one? I am very familiar with Brownells, Midway, Numrich etc I'm just a rookie or novice when it comes to the blackpowder world on these old model firearms. I saw a Uberti mainspring and am unsure if that will fit correctly, as I don't know if all reproductions of the same model adhere to the original dimensions, or if Uberti, Colt, or Pietta etc use different specs.

Any help/education on the matter is greatly appreciated!
 
Taking an educated guess, I'd say that there is a very good chance that a Uberti mainspring will fit since Uberti is the company that made the Colt Blackpowder line. Those leaf mainsprings have been known to break.
 
Yap,
I keep telling y'all they are way over sprung! Lol
When you get your new one, take some material off each side to relieve some tension. I usually keep going till I get to about a 4lb. hammer draw . You can take mine out and put them back in with your hands.
If you use a bench grinder, hold it with bare hands (so you won't get it too hot), dip in water after each pass. It's easy to do and you will enjoy a lighter main spring.

Be aware that lightening the main will lighten the trigger pull. You may add some tension by slightly bending the trigger spring. Just go little by little to increase the entire arc of the spring.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
Awesome info fellas, I really appreciate the help. I just had to make sure I was buying the correct part before I placed the order and ended up disappointed. 45 Dragoon, thank you for the tip on lightening the spring, I will definitely try that out when I get it, and if it lightens the trigger pull that is a definite plus! Thanks again everyone!
 
45 Dragoon, what would you use to remove material if you don't have a bench grinder? I had been planning on using something like a jeweler's file, but if there's something more effective, I'd love for some tips.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the info Dave, and you too, Goon. I have a whetstone, so I'll end up going that route. None of my neighbors appear to be 'tool people,' unfortunately, so belt grinder isn't looking too likely.
 
Working down a mainspring with a whetstone? Sounds like a lifetime job to me. If you can't set up a bench grinder, hand grinder or a Dremel tool with a sanding drum will do if used with care and not let run away.

Jim
 
The stone is definitely slower but it can be done (I've done more than a few that way). A belt sander will heat the spring up very fast so if that ends up being a choice, go at it a tiny bit at a time. I use a belt to thin down a thick spring but I've done a bunch of um. Always use your bare hands and keep the water right by the machine. If it's too hot to hold, it's too hot !!!!!!

See to me , the drum sander on a dremel would be slow. I can do one faster on a stone.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top