Howdy Folks,
I'm looking for some advice on a repair project I'm about to tackle.
I have a Colt Trooper with poor cylinder timing. It is a sixties vintage (I think), with the flat V mainspring, rather than the coiled mainspring. As the hammer is retracted, the bolt drops down just enough to allow the cylinder to start rotate. It pops back up as the cylinder has moved just enough so the bolt doesn't go back into the locking lug it just left. The bold continues to drag on the cylinder all the way to the next lug,
leaving that really "attractive" ring. I can live with the ring, but the next symptom has me worried.
If the hammer is retracted slowly, the clinder stops rotating just short of the bolt fully engaging the new locking lug. I have to manually bump the cylinder that last tiny bit before the bolt goes all the way home.
However if the hammer is retracted smartly, everything locks up fine. I'm guessing the extra speed of rotation gives the cylinder enough momentum to rotate fully.
The questions I have at this point are:
1) The assembly/disassembly manuals I have on hand, contain directions for Pythons and Officer Models. Is it safe to assume these are close enough to my Trooper, or do I need to get the Kuhnhausen manual for "I" frames?
2) Once I have it apart, if nothing is obviously broken, what do I look for? I'm guessing I check the bolt, hand, rebound lever, and ratchet for wear. I'm just not sure how to determine when the "wear" is too
much, or should I just start replacing all the usual suspects.
3) If I'm lucky enough to get to the point of identifying the offending parts, where do I get replacements? Brownells sells Python parts. Would these fit? Do I need to try and order them from Colt, or will I have to hit the used parts vendors?
4) I'm not a pro. I have had many pistols and a few revolvers (Dan Wessons and Rugers) detail stripped before, but never a Colt revolver. My skills could be described as a "hobbyist" level. Is this lockwork
more complex than I should be attempting?
I'm sorry this is so long, but once I got started with details, it was hard to know when to stop. Any insight or advice would be very much appreciated.
Joe
------------------
Go NRA
I'm looking for some advice on a repair project I'm about to tackle.
I have a Colt Trooper with poor cylinder timing. It is a sixties vintage (I think), with the flat V mainspring, rather than the coiled mainspring. As the hammer is retracted, the bolt drops down just enough to allow the cylinder to start rotate. It pops back up as the cylinder has moved just enough so the bolt doesn't go back into the locking lug it just left. The bold continues to drag on the cylinder all the way to the next lug,
leaving that really "attractive" ring. I can live with the ring, but the next symptom has me worried.
If the hammer is retracted slowly, the clinder stops rotating just short of the bolt fully engaging the new locking lug. I have to manually bump the cylinder that last tiny bit before the bolt goes all the way home.
However if the hammer is retracted smartly, everything locks up fine. I'm guessing the extra speed of rotation gives the cylinder enough momentum to rotate fully.
The questions I have at this point are:
1) The assembly/disassembly manuals I have on hand, contain directions for Pythons and Officer Models. Is it safe to assume these are close enough to my Trooper, or do I need to get the Kuhnhausen manual for "I" frames?
2) Once I have it apart, if nothing is obviously broken, what do I look for? I'm guessing I check the bolt, hand, rebound lever, and ratchet for wear. I'm just not sure how to determine when the "wear" is too
much, or should I just start replacing all the usual suspects.
3) If I'm lucky enough to get to the point of identifying the offending parts, where do I get replacements? Brownells sells Python parts. Would these fit? Do I need to try and order them from Colt, or will I have to hit the used parts vendors?
4) I'm not a pro. I have had many pistols and a few revolvers (Dan Wessons and Rugers) detail stripped before, but never a Colt revolver. My skills could be described as a "hobbyist" level. Is this lockwork
more complex than I should be attempting?
I'm sorry this is so long, but once I got started with details, it was hard to know when to stop. Any insight or advice would be very much appreciated.
Joe
------------------
Go NRA