Colt New Army Revolver

Bonden

Inactive
How much would one of these go for in an auction? Made in 1898, totally functional, terrific bore. I know there are a lot of variables but roughly speaking what would be your max bid. Appreciate it.
 
Could be, this is a C&R forum post, but

I checked the Standard Catalog of Fireams (24th Ed. p.261)

1892 New Army and Navy - $6,000 ex down to $500 poor.
1892 U.S. Army Military version $2500 ex down to $400 poor.
1894/6 Army - $2200 ex down to $400 poor.
New Service Model (Started production in 1898) $1700 ex down to $125 poor.

I think the Internet has had the effect of increasing both availability of firearms and the size of the buying market. But the greater impact is on the size of the market. Consequently upward force is applied to values. I don't know if this is true in firearms but I know it works like this in other collectable genre.
 
And if you are going to reload for it . . 38 Colt Long brass is available (usually) in smaller quantities from Track of the Wolf or Starline if you want to purchase in 500 piece quantities.
 
And if you are going to reload for it . . 38 Colt Long brass is available

Or you can trim .38 special brass. It's not much difference in them. Just enough to keep the special rounds from chambering.
 
You don't need to trim .38 Special brass. Up to around 1903, the chambers have no shoulders at all; even .357 will fit and fire (but don't do it!!).

After that, they were chambered for .38 Special and of course .38 Special will be fine. In either case, keep .38 Special loads to standard pressure levels (no +P or +P+).

Edited to add: The above does not, of course, apply to guns in .41 Colt. All service contract guns were in .38, but commercial guns were made in both calibers.

Jim
 
Jim - Is there a difference in cylinder length between those intended for 38 Colt and 38 Special?

Yes . . . if the 38 Spl. brass (or 357 brass) will work in the chamber, then I'm assuming that the bullet will have to be seated deeper in the casing . . . . and it's important to remember regardless of what case you are using, you'll have to stick to 38 Colt Long (or Short if you use Short brass) Data if the handgun is specifically chamber for 38 Colt Long . . . .

Hawg - You're certainly right on trimming the 38 Spl. back to 38 Colt Long. I load quite a bit of 38 Colt Short, Long and Special . . . enough of it that for me, I'm not going to spend time trimming brass when I can buy it. Plus, with what I load, I want the correct head stamp on it . . . but if a person is only going to load a few, then trimming is a good way to do it if they have the trimmer. I don't even own one and have never trimmed 38 Spl. or 357. . . . . usually in the range brass I use, IF there is a case length difference then it can be sorted by head stamp/length so you get a good roll crimp on it.
 
Remember that a .358 bullet will drop straight through these usually-much-larger bores. A hollow-base wadcutter will work ... sort of.
 
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