Cold Blue Question

[briang2ad]

Bluing problem:

I have a CZ 75 which was finished as “glossy blue”. If you have seen one, it is a VERY dark black/blue on a very brightly polished surface. BUT – that surface has little ‘scratches’ in it that get there from the final sanding/polishing. This particular gun has probably been sitting in a drawer un-oiled for years with no care and only occasional handling – mechanically like new. Over time, the bluing has lightened considerably, but is still shiney. Those micro scratches have gotten a little rust in them, and this has lightened the whole finish evenly – in the metal. The only real surface “rust” you would normally notice on the backstrap. I intend to DARKEN the entire gun’s bluing with Oxpho-blue.

All I want to do is darken the original blue - evenly.

My question is: which process do I use on the instructions? “Touch up” or “reblue”. In touch up, there is really NO metal prep, for it says that oil does not hinder the process. In reblue, the process has you clean the metal with alcohol – I guess because the gun is white – I don’t know(?) My main concern is it be EVEN with no blotches. Anyone do this? (Please only those with OB experience – I know it is good stuff).

Thanks.

 

[Romulus]

For color matching existing blue (and as a cold blue in general) nothing in my experience beat Van's. I just dipped into a ten year old bottle I got at a gun show and it blended in beautifully a scratch on my 870's receiver.

 

[James K]

I don't know if all of them are, but the ones I have seen have what appears to be a painted finish, though it may be something like epoxy or Gun Kote. Best make sure what you are dealing with before you try to fix it.

Jim

 

[auburnboattail]

Reblue

Alcohol is used as degreaser. It is essential to acheive a good finish.
Blueing process is actually rusting of the metal. And oils including hand oil from your skin, causes the metal to not take the solution easily.
The result will be unveven,patchy appearance.
Specifically gasoline or benzol used to be used as a degreaser but in my opinion is much too dangerous. An effective alternative is a strong alcohol, 5to 10% caustic soda lye and the subsequent rinsing with hot water. Be sure to oil breech and bore and plug to prevent water from entering barrel.
Be sure not to touch and surafces with your uncloved hand after degreasing.

When applying blueing put on in thin even coats and let dry. A rag dipped in blueing and rung out almost dry and then applied to surface works well.

The results are strictlu dependent on preparation of surfaces prior to blueing.