I was looking at the previous thread for the Colt and I am wondering if the Perma Blue is good for doing an 1100 reciever over? If its ok, How many coats should be done to achieve a nice finish. I bought the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and a bottle of blue and rust remover. How good does the remover work and is there anything else I should know or need besides 000 steel wool? Thanks, Mike
Cold blue for 1100 reciever
- Thread starter mikenbarb
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
Yes-you should know that cold blue is for touching up small areas only-regardless what the advertising hype says.
You will not get an adequate finish with it. It will never look right, or wear well. Take the gun to a pro, or paint the receiver with one of the "gun paints."
You will not get an adequate finish with it. It will never look right, or wear well. Take the gun to a pro, or paint the receiver with one of the "gun paints."
Cold Blue
First time to post in order to have someone prove me wrong but I have never found a cold blue that ever gave a good or permanent finish when compared to a hot blue or oxide. Have used it to make spot repairs and if you value your 1100 as I do mine, take it to a smith or ship it off to a shop. There are many and they do a "great" job but get referals. Might ask yourself if it really needs to be reblued.
As far as stripping, there are gels and liquids. Solvent wash the part prior to applying the stripper. Then when you put it on, the bluing goes away and you just wash the residue off with water or a solvent. make sure you wear protective gear and don't get it on any metal you don't want to strip. Follow the direstions on your stripper.
After stripping, soak your reciever in mineral spirits and let dry. Make sure you get all the crud and oil off the surface or the cold blue will not take or leave blotches. You really want to get all the residue off the surface. As stated, you can heat the item but don't exceed 120DEG.F. Again, just follow the directions on the cold blue.
Good luck and if you find something that "really" works, let me know.
Be safe
First time to post in order to have someone prove me wrong but I have never found a cold blue that ever gave a good or permanent finish when compared to a hot blue or oxide. Have used it to make spot repairs and if you value your 1100 as I do mine, take it to a smith or ship it off to a shop. There are many and they do a "great" job but get referals. Might ask yourself if it really needs to be reblued.
As far as stripping, there are gels and liquids. Solvent wash the part prior to applying the stripper. Then when you put it on, the bluing goes away and you just wash the residue off with water or a solvent. make sure you wear protective gear and don't get it on any metal you don't want to strip. Follow the direstions on your stripper.
After stripping, soak your reciever in mineral spirits and let dry. Make sure you get all the crud and oil off the surface or the cold blue will not take or leave blotches. You really want to get all the residue off the surface. As stated, you can heat the item but don't exceed 120DEG.F. Again, just follow the directions on the cold blue.
Good luck and if you find something that "really" works, let me know.
Be safe
Hot blue
What is involved with hot blueing? I remember a long time ago my g-ma getting mad at my g-pa that he had the bathtub filled with blueing compound.
Im looking for the best finish thats easy to do without gunsmithing tubs or ovens. Can I use my house oven for hot blue? I have no idea how its done and thats why im asking.
What is involved with hot blueing? I remember a long time ago my g-ma getting mad at my g-pa that he had the bathtub filled with blueing compound.
Im looking for the best finish thats easy to do without gunsmithing tubs or ovens. Can I use my house oven for hot blue? I have no idea how its done and thats why im asking.
Heating the part to be blued will make cold blue a little more effective, but it will never be good for a whole gun, or look like a hot tank blue.
Setting up to do tank bluing is a very complex job and the material used is highly caustic and very dangerous. If it spills or splashes, it can burn through clothing and skin in a fraction of a second and I don't need to mention what it will do to a kitchen floor.
Jim
Setting up to do tank bluing is a very complex job and the material used is highly caustic and very dangerous. If it spills or splashes, it can burn through clothing and skin in a fraction of a second and I don't need to mention what it will do to a kitchen floor.
Jim
I used the Perma Blue on my 870 a few years ago. I used the oven to heat it and put on many coats. I was pleased with it.
Last fall i couldn't figure out who's gun was in my safe! it looked terrible!
These guys are right, Don't do it.
I might redo that shotgun with the plumb brown. I did a flintlock with it many years ago and it still looks good.
Last fall i couldn't figure out who's gun was in my safe! it looked terrible!
These guys are right, Don't do it.
I might redo that shotgun with the plumb brown. I did a flintlock with it many years ago and it still looks good.
mikenbarb
Don't lose heart and it's your call but with all due respect, does it really need a new face lift? The last time I checked, it would cost me about $150.00 to reblue my 1100. I also did a ceramacoat on a 10/22 and it worked out great. Have seen quite a few powder coats and they a tough and look pretty darn good, so good that you have to look close to make sure it's not blued. Good luck and please keep us posted as to how your project turns out.
Be Safe
Don't lose heart and it's your call but with all due respect, does it really need a new face lift? The last time I checked, it would cost me about $150.00 to reblue my 1100. I also did a ceramacoat on a 10/22 and it worked out great. Have seen quite a few powder coats and they a tough and look pretty darn good, so good that you have to look close to make sure it's not blued. Good luck and please keep us posted as to how your project turns out.
Be Safe
It may sound stupid but i have been considering a thermal spray coating. I have access to these and can do it for free. I can do it any color(black) and I would never have to worry about it again. I just have to practice with stock that is same thickness at a very low temp.
sc928porsche
New member
A cold blue does not work as well as a hot blueing tank, but nonetheless a nice finish can be achieved that will last many years! The best blueing that I have ever used is Super 44. It can be purchaced from brownells.
Keep in mind that the blueing job will only be as good as the prep work. For cleaning I like to use vineagar and ammonia mixed with a little liquid dish soap.
after cleaning, be sure to polish the metal surfaces and wash and rinse again. Lastly use a little Brake Clean and warm the metal to about 90 degrees or so. Then apply the blueing. After rubbing the blueing in to get an even color, wash & rinse thouroughly. Reapply untill desired color is achieved being shure to wash with ammonia and rinse between coats.
Note: The blueing will absorb oil so be sure to coat heavily and keep coated untill it no longer "dries out". This will take many coats of oil. Once it is "set", it will last many years.
Keep in mind that the blueing job will only be as good as the prep work. For cleaning I like to use vineagar and ammonia mixed with a little liquid dish soap.
after cleaning, be sure to polish the metal surfaces and wash and rinse again. Lastly use a little Brake Clean and warm the metal to about 90 degrees or so. Then apply the blueing. After rubbing the blueing in to get an even color, wash & rinse thouroughly. Reapply untill desired color is achieved being shure to wash with ammonia and rinse between coats.
Note: The blueing will absorb oil so be sure to coat heavily and keep coated untill it no longer "dries out". This will take many coats of oil. Once it is "set", it will last many years.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Vinegar is an acid, and ammonia is alkaline. What is the point? Mixing them creates nothing.
Bill DeShivs
New member
And it looks cold-blued......
I use Oxphoblue from Brownells. It does a good job but there is no substitute for hot blueing in my opinion. I just recently cold blued the rear section of a bolt and bolt handle on a Rem 788 which I had to silver solder the handle back on. If you get the metal stripped and clean, you can do small areas and make them look pretty good. I was surprised at how well this turned out. No way would I want to try a whole rifle that way though
The Oxpho blue in liquid is easier to get good results than the Oxpho cream, even though the cream is easier to apply.
I like to put a barrel in the lathe and turn it fast while applying the blue with a fine grade of 3M Scotch-Brite pad No 7448 (light gray).
The blue is rubbed on and rubbed off and the pressure is applied until the blue is very hard to rub off with the abrasive pad. Oil, wait overnight, clean, repeat until as dark and durable as factory blue.
I put a drop cloth down so liquid cannot drip on the lathe ways.
I like to put a barrel in the lathe and turn it fast while applying the blue with a fine grade of 3M Scotch-Brite pad No 7448 (light gray).
The blue is rubbed on and rubbed off and the pressure is applied until the blue is very hard to rub off with the abrasive pad. Oil, wait overnight, clean, repeat until as dark and durable as factory blue.
I put a drop cloth down so liquid cannot drip on the lathe ways.