Clearing; MisFires

Pahoo

New member
Rather than Hi-Jacking a previous thread, thought I'd share my learning curve on clearing misfire. ..... :(

During out M/L classes, we do not teach any method but rather have them refer to their instruction manual. The are a number of reasons for doing so but the primary reason is to eliminate any liabilities on our part. .... ;)

1) Wait and reinstall up to three fresh caps and try to fire. Regardless, of outcome, this rifle is having some real issues. Rate of success is about 25%.

2) Again, after a reasonable waiting period, I have pulled the nipple and placed a small amount of powder, under the nipple. Rate of success was about 75%.

3) Wait, install screw jag into my "Range-Rod" push it hard into the pure lead RB and screw in at least 9-quarter turns. Too little and you lose the "bight". On the bench, it's important to have a good stout Range-Rod. On the hunt, I replace my Hickory with a Poly rod, just in case I run into a problem. You need to have a rod that will take the torque as you will certainly need it for this method. I have also pulled Conicals and Sabot projectiles, using this method. The sabot rounds, pull the easiest. Regardless of what I pull,, I always squirt a little #13, down the bore. With new M/L shooters who are not are somewhat fearful of encountering this problem, I will purposely cause a Dry-Ball and we learn to de-horn that devil. ..... ;)

4) Co2 dischargers; For years, I carried one and never use it. Then I ran into my first stuck RamRod. One of the new instructors, tried to run a dry patch, down a fouled bore, before I could stop him. Not his fault but mine and glad it happened. Left me no choice but to use my CO2. Again, poured some #13 down the bore let it soak for 15-minuted, pointed it down range and with a "Thunk" out it came. We all had a good laugh on that one. Where applicable, these CO2's will not only push out a projectile, but broken or stuck ramrods. You guys all know about Popping-A-Cap before loading. Well, the Co'2 can also be used for that, with no added fouling. Rate of success to date, 100%..... :rolleyes:

For little or no money and effort, you too can de-horn that devil ..... ;)
Fellows, please share your experience with us, on this subject.

Be Safe !!!
 
I use one of those pocket CO2 things. They work great for pushing out minie balls. Not so sure how well they would work pushing out anything with an interference fit.

They will not blow out a ball in a revolver cylinder.

Steve
 
I've always been close to the house(as in the back yard)when I've dryballed. I just screw in a ball puller and if it's tough I stick the ramrod in a padded vice and snatch the rifle off of it. If your ramrod tip isn't pinned you'll likely snatch the ramrod out of it, so if you use your ramrod make sure the tip is pinned and not just glued.
 
Hydraulically pushed auto chassis grease thru the rifles Snail fitted with a auto Zerk fitting will remove anything that plugs a barrel. Even multiple charges are no problem for that process. I once not only cleared a multiple charge in a guys Renegade barrel but also recovered his ramrod tip and Ball Screw for him. Afterwards he was overly pleased having to pay for only one tube of chassis lube from W/M. {I supplied the 1/4x28 Zerk fitting free of charge.} For my own use I prefer the (discontinued) T/C CO-2 Ball Discharger. So far it hasn't yet let me down when called upon to blow out my barrels. I've used the screw method in the past to remove a projectile or two. To much effort required from for me to like that process of ball removal. Nope not for this guy.
 
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