Cleaning your shotgun
- Thread starter TKL
- Start date
Cleaning?
This thread should get plenty of replies, and each one will give different advice.
That said, I usually clean my barrels immediately after shooting with a Tika tool or boresnake. This knocks a lot of the residue and crud from the bores and keeps them from forming rust on the way home. (this happens here on damp Long Island). I usually wipe the outside of the receiver down with one of those silicone rags. When I get home the real cleaning begins. I Clean the bores out with Hoppes #9 and coat them with Remingtons Nitro CLP. I wipe the outside of the barrels and the receiver down with Nitro CLP. I then apply a grease to the hinge pin and other surfaces that can wear after removing the old grease. The grease I use is sold by the Manufacturer of my gun but any good quality gun grease will work.
Before my next shooting session I remove the grease and reapply just before shooting. Since I use my guns for target shooting and they see a lot of rounds my cleaning ritual is necessary to keep the guns in good working order. My guns are O/Us BTW.
My pumps rarely are shot but I thoroughly clean them after I am finished shooting, normally they do not see as many rounds as the O/Us so are not as dirty. If they sit in the safe for a long time I periodically take them out and wipe them down with CLP.
My O/U s are a big investment so I am carefull to maintain them. cleaning supplies are cheap.
Geoff Ross
This thread should get plenty of replies, and each one will give different advice.
That said, I usually clean my barrels immediately after shooting with a Tika tool or boresnake. This knocks a lot of the residue and crud from the bores and keeps them from forming rust on the way home. (this happens here on damp Long Island). I usually wipe the outside of the receiver down with one of those silicone rags. When I get home the real cleaning begins. I Clean the bores out with Hoppes #9 and coat them with Remingtons Nitro CLP. I wipe the outside of the barrels and the receiver down with Nitro CLP. I then apply a grease to the hinge pin and other surfaces that can wear after removing the old grease. The grease I use is sold by the Manufacturer of my gun but any good quality gun grease will work.
Before my next shooting session I remove the grease and reapply just before shooting. Since I use my guns for target shooting and they see a lot of rounds my cleaning ritual is necessary to keep the guns in good working order. My guns are O/Us BTW.
My pumps rarely are shot but I thoroughly clean them after I am finished shooting, normally they do not see as many rounds as the O/Us so are not as dirty. If they sit in the safe for a long time I periodically take them out and wipe them down with CLP.
My O/U s are a big investment so I am carefull to maintain them. cleaning supplies are cheap.
Geoff Ross
There's four shotgun cleaning rods in the closet, set up with a brass brush,patch jag, patch jag, and a wool oil mop.
The brass brush is a little undersized to get through the chokes, and I use a smaller patch on the second jag,same reason. Hoppe's #9,Break Free CLP and oil are the liquids involved, and there's both spray cleaner and lube also,used on the action parts.
After cleaning the internals, the exterior get wiped down with an oily patch.
The brass brush is a little undersized to get through the chokes, and I use a smaller patch on the second jag,same reason. Hoppe's #9,Break Free CLP and oil are the liquids involved, and there's both spray cleaner and lube also,used on the action parts.
After cleaning the internals, the exterior get wiped down with an oily patch.
Most of the time I'm cleaning an over/under.
The first step is spraying the barrels with either G96 or Remington's cleaning solvent and letting them soak a bit. I take a heavy chamber brush, dip it in solvent and scrub the chambers and forcing cones because this is where a lot of build up occurs.
Next step is a vigorous brushing with a brass brush to loosen all the crude in the barrels and then run a wet patch through followed by dry patches. On a gun with choke tubes I leave them in. After the barrels are done, the tubes are removed and the threads are cleaned with a special cleaning tool. I usually don't lube the inside of the barrels.
I generally wipe the action and the hinge pins with a cloth and a little solvent. I use a synthetic lubricant made by Nye Lubricants although I have used STOS and the Krieghoff grease and put a dab on the contact areas before putting the gun back together. I don't lube choke tubes.
I wipe down the outside with a silicone cloth and once in a while might spread a very small touch of oil on the gun.
The first step is spraying the barrels with either G96 or Remington's cleaning solvent and letting them soak a bit. I take a heavy chamber brush, dip it in solvent and scrub the chambers and forcing cones because this is where a lot of build up occurs.
Next step is a vigorous brushing with a brass brush to loosen all the crude in the barrels and then run a wet patch through followed by dry patches. On a gun with choke tubes I leave them in. After the barrels are done, the tubes are removed and the threads are cleaned with a special cleaning tool. I usually don't lube the inside of the barrels.
I generally wipe the action and the hinge pins with a cloth and a little solvent. I use a synthetic lubricant made by Nye Lubricants although I have used STOS and the Krieghoff grease and put a dab on the contact areas before putting the gun back together. I don't lube choke tubes.
I wipe down the outside with a silicone cloth and once in a while might spread a very small touch of oil on the gun.
cleaning sg's
I take the barrel off. Squirt some Remington bore cleaner (the non-toxic stuff) all in the bore. Then take a nylon bore brush and scrub real good. The brush comes out BLACK. Then I spray the brush off and spray the bore out with gun scrubber. Then I wrap a 12ga. patch around the brush and push the gunk out. When the patches come out clean, I wipe the bore with birchwood casey "sheath". I also wipe the barrel, mag and receiver with the sheath. I put a lite smear of moly grease on the rails and bolt. Then work the action a few times to work the grease in.
I take the barrel off. Squirt some Remington bore cleaner (the non-toxic stuff) all in the bore. Then take a nylon bore brush and scrub real good. The brush comes out BLACK. Then I spray the brush off and spray the bore out with gun scrubber. Then I wrap a 12ga. patch around the brush and push the gunk out. When the patches come out clean, I wipe the bore with birchwood casey "sheath". I also wipe the barrel, mag and receiver with the sheath. I put a lite smear of moly grease on the rails and bolt. Then work the action a few times to work the grease in.
I follow a procedure similar to what nedfig posted. I keep a clean rag with me and wipe off all the surfaces in the field and often remove the barell when I'm home and clean it with a Nye solvent and lubricant. I usually don't take out the choke tubes since little particles lossened from the barrel or brush can become incorperated in the grooves.
The only other thing to add is to remove the choke tubes, clean the threads and then lube with choke tube lube. If you do this after every shoot, your choke tubes will most likely never get stuck. Also, when tightning the tubes just snug them. They should not be torqued down real tight.
Once a year take your shotgun to a good gunsmith for a disassemble, clean and oil. John K.
Once a year take your shotgun to a good gunsmith for a disassemble, clean and oil. John K.
Over on the Shotgun Report, there's a new topic about lubes and a test some shotgunner did on them. Breakfree CLP came out the winner, mostly. You might want to check it out, the Shotgun Report gang are fecally cognizant and it's a great place to learn,as well as be entertained.
Sorry, I don't know enough about computers to imbed the link, and the people that do are either asleep or on the way to school(Son,14).
Sorry, I don't know enough about computers to imbed the link, and the people that do are either asleep or on the way to school(Son,14).
FatCat, If you want your 870 to last a long time, it would be best to disassemble and clean once a year. What happens is after awhile, the oil gets gummy and traps dirt and residue from the shot shells. This acts as an abrasive and puts alot of wear on the internal parts. I have seen this time and time again from customers who wait for a malfuntion before bringing their firearm in for service. The wear marks are obvious. It's your firearm, so do as you wish. I just hate to see quality firearms retired before their time. Good Shooting - John K.
Link
http://www.shotgunreport.com/TechTech/TechnoidArchive/14-Dec-00.html
Technoid
14-Dec-00-8:01 PM
RUST PREVENTATIVES
All of us worry about rust on our guns. Manufacturers of rust
preventative products claim all sorts of things in their own
interests. It's hard to get a truly unbiased test. You might wish to
take a look at http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-rust.html
The tests performed here seem pretty good to me. I wasn't surprised
to see BreakFree CLP come out at the top, nor Eezox. But I was
surprised that Birchwood Casey's "Sheath" didn't do very well. I've
always had pretty good luck with it. Still, live and learn. I've also
had good luck with Pachmayr's "PRP" (Pachmayr Rust Preventative).
That one is a waxy die maker's preservative. It's great for rust
prevention, but it is gummy and does attract carbon and other grit.
Mr. Firiollo gets a lot of points for doing these tests. Not all
products were covered. I would have loved to have seen "Clenzoil",
one of my new favorites, tested. Still, I'm glad to see my old
favorite BreakFree CLP vindicated. It's always been a great product.
That's why we carry it at the store. Of all the rust preventative
products listed BreakFree CLP is the only one that is also a powder
solvent, so very perfect for gas guns. No wonder Uncle Sam uses it.
Go to the page and read the test. It's well worth your while.
Best regards,
Bruce Buck
The Technoid writing for Shotgun Report, LLC
(Often in error. Never in doubt.)
http://www.shotgunreport.com/TechTech/TechnoidArchive/14-Dec-00.html
Technoid
14-Dec-00-8:01 PM
RUST PREVENTATIVES
All of us worry about rust on our guns. Manufacturers of rust
preventative products claim all sorts of things in their own
interests. It's hard to get a truly unbiased test. You might wish to
take a look at http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-rust.html
The tests performed here seem pretty good to me. I wasn't surprised
to see BreakFree CLP come out at the top, nor Eezox. But I was
surprised that Birchwood Casey's "Sheath" didn't do very well. I've
always had pretty good luck with it. Still, live and learn. I've also
had good luck with Pachmayr's "PRP" (Pachmayr Rust Preventative).
That one is a waxy die maker's preservative. It's great for rust
prevention, but it is gummy and does attract carbon and other grit.
Mr. Firiollo gets a lot of points for doing these tests. Not all
products were covered. I would have loved to have seen "Clenzoil",
one of my new favorites, tested. Still, I'm glad to see my old
favorite BreakFree CLP vindicated. It's always been a great product.
That's why we carry it at the store. Of all the rust preventative
products listed BreakFree CLP is the only one that is also a powder
solvent, so very perfect for gas guns. No wonder Uncle Sam uses it.
Go to the page and read the test. It's well worth your while.
Best regards,
Bruce Buck
The Technoid writing for Shotgun Report, LLC
(Often in error. Never in doubt.)