I can see the advantages of cleaning firearms using a boresnake, but there's one question that I have: how do you know when you're done? When using a cleaning rod and patches, so I have been told, you're done when the last dry patch comes out clean, but when using a boresnake...?
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Cleaning with a boresnake
- Thread starter dburkhead
- Start date
I think of the Boresnake more as a quick cleaning solution at the range so I can keep shooting, not the final cleaning solution for when I get home. You're kind of dragging the fouling back through the bore every time you pull the snake through and I can't believe it will get the bore as clean as a jag and patch on a rod can.
I use a boresnake for every gun I have and love them. It takes about 2-3 times down the barrel after shooting alot of rounds. They hold the fouling and dont deposit it back in the barrel because of the material they use. All you have to do is look down the barrel from the reciever end to check that its clean. When they get real dirty you can throw them in the washer.(dont tell the wife) or hand wash them and they last forever. If you want, You can wrap a couple patches around the brush part to make sure its clean if you cant eyeball the bore. For the 15 bucks they cost its well worth it.
Okay, so the snake is for quick cleanings between good scrubbings. Got that.
Now, I am wondering about that thorough cleaning.
Being new to the field of gun ownership, I did an online search to try to find instructions on how to properly clean my guns. The procedure I more-or-less settled on was from (IIRC) guns magazine:
- Run 2-3 patches with solvent through the bore and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. (While it's sitting, I use the time to scrub the bolt and the inside of the receiver with a toothbrush and more solvent--using Hoppes #9 Bench Rest at the moment.)
- Run a brush through the bore several times
- Run patches through the bore, alternating wet (with solvent) and dry. When the dry patch comes out clean, you're done. If after several times it's still coming out dirty, go back to the beginning and start over.
I've modified that to running 2 or three dry patches after each wet one since the first dry patch _always_ come out with solvent on it making it hard to tell if it's also picking up residue.
Since, following those directions, I always end up going back to the beginning at least twice, I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong.
Advice?
Now, I am wondering about that thorough cleaning.
Being new to the field of gun ownership, I did an online search to try to find instructions on how to properly clean my guns. The procedure I more-or-less settled on was from (IIRC) guns magazine:
- Run 2-3 patches with solvent through the bore and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. (While it's sitting, I use the time to scrub the bolt and the inside of the receiver with a toothbrush and more solvent--using Hoppes #9 Bench Rest at the moment.)
- Run a brush through the bore several times
- Run patches through the bore, alternating wet (with solvent) and dry. When the dry patch comes out clean, you're done. If after several times it's still coming out dirty, go back to the beginning and start over.
I've modified that to running 2 or three dry patches after each wet one since the first dry patch _always_ come out with solvent on it making it hard to tell if it's also picking up residue.
Since, following those directions, I always end up going back to the beginning at least twice, I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong.
Advice?
You're probably getting off layers of copper fouling - is any of it blue or green in color? If it is, you can speed up the process with a stronger copper solvent like Sweets 7.62 (only in the bore, not the bolt or receiver). I personally only use the brush first time - after that I'll just use the solvent and let it sit for a few minutes between patches until it comes out clean. I prefer the original Hoppe's #9, I don't think the Bench Rest formula cleans powder fouling as well as the original formula, and the original formula will dissolve copper too if you let it sit for 15 minutes or more in the bore. If I have a lot of copper I break out the Sweets.
You probably know this already, but in case you don't - you should be cleaning from the breech end if it's a bolt rifle. Be sure to use a rod guide in the bolt to protect your chamber from cleaning rod damage. If you have to clean from the muzzle end, use one of the brass cone type guides to protect the crown. Many rifles are damaged by cleaning rods.
You didnt' say what kind of firearm this is and the caliber - the above procedures apply to centerfire rifles - if it's a .22LR you really shouldn't clean the bore very often at all IMO.
You probably know this already, but in case you don't - you should be cleaning from the breech end if it's a bolt rifle. Be sure to use a rod guide in the bolt to protect your chamber from cleaning rod damage. If you have to clean from the muzzle end, use one of the brass cone type guides to protect the crown. Many rifles are damaged by cleaning rods.
You didnt' say what kind of firearm this is and the caliber - the above procedures apply to centerfire rifles - if it's a .22LR you really shouldn't clean the bore very often at all IMO.
Invest in a good synthetic rod and use plastic tips and you dont have to worry about barrel damage if used rite. +1 for the Sweets cleaner and rod guide. I just bought a bottle of the Gunslick copper out to see how it works and its supposed to be great on copper fouling.
If your having a hard time cleaning, I suggest running a bronze brush thru it a couple times with a patch wrapped around it soaked in solvent. The bristles pop thru the patch and the patch removes the fouling loosened from the brush.
If your having a hard time cleaning, I suggest running a bronze brush thru it a couple times with a patch wrapped around it soaked in solvent. The bristles pop thru the patch and the patch removes the fouling loosened from the brush.