Cleaning that pesky titanium. . .?

4

45 Long Colt

New member
My feeble resistance to spending money was overcome by my natural lust for nicely machined gun metal and I bought an S&W 360. That's the J frame 12 ounce Airlite .357 with the titanium cylinder.

I'm reluctant to simply go after powder residue on the titanium cylinder with a brass brush and cleaning solvent. I started to do that, but a close inspection of the cylinder after a few light passes indicates this process might scratch the metal.

So I'd appreciate some advice. How do those of you who own titanium guns clean 'em?

Incidentally, the recoil with 130 grain Federals has to be described as stout, but manageable. The gun groups well, considering it's got a pipe less than 2" long. And it is a sheer joy to pack at that weight. I'll be working on the double action pull, which is a bit heavier than I like, but otherwise this is a clear keeper.
 
I have no experience with Titanium firearms, but can it really be that Titanium is softer than Brass?? I don't get it... :confused:

StrikeEagle
 
I'm reluctant to simply go after powder residue on the titanium cylinder with a brass brush and cleaning solvent. I started to do that, but a close inspection of the cylinder after a few light passes indicates this process might scratch the metal.
Click to expand...

You're right to be reluctant. What you're scratching is not the metal, but the coating that S&W applies to the titanium to retard flame cutting. Myself, I just leave the cylinder face on my 296 all gnarly, but the manual states that "normal gun cleaning procedures are okey-dokie." If the residue on the face of the cylinder is just bugging you, I'd recommend the least abrasive cleaning methods; vigorous buffing with a Hoppe's-soaked patch and such.
 
I just use Hoppes #9 and a nylon brush on the outside. Anything that doesn't come off... just stays. In the chambers I use a brass brush if I've been shooting lead. Just go easy and don't get too agressive. I figure the violence that's going on in the chamber when fired is going to make short work of the coating anyway. But so far mine has held up fine.

325pd_r.jpg


Joe
 
tooth brush

will also work, and I second the Hoppe's 9... The 325PD too :D

You don't want it to look like it's never been fired !
 
To remove the carbon on the cylinder try a non-abrasive pencil eraser. I'v been told that Leadaway clothes work but I haven't tried them yet. Don't use the cloth on a blued gun as it'll remove the bluing.
Jeff
 
I have a S&W PC 646 and after reading the "don't scrach" clause in the manual, I actually contacted them about cleaning the titanium cylinder.

They were very clear about never scraching that stuff because it is only case hardened (or coated?). But, he stated that brass brushes wouldn't harm anything if used correctly. Still, I only use them in the chambers to be on the extra safe side.
For the external, I have excellent luck with the nylon gun cleaning brushes from Brownells and Hoppe's #9. The tech also said that any "gun safe cleaning solvent" was safe on the cylinders. Since Hoppe's #9 works, I figured why change....
 
k in AR -

Calling S&W was a good move. When I read the manual, it seemed like the instructions were to clean as usual. Since most of my arsenal is stainless, that means a brass brush and solvent.

For now, I intend to avoid the brass brush on the outside of the cylinder. Hoppe's #9 and nylon will have to serve.

Thanks to all who replied.

Keep your powder dry and good shootin' to you.
 
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