Cleaning Stainless?

G

Guyon

New member
I have a S&W stainless 686 that I've always cleaned after firing. After the last trip to the range, I didn't have time to do a cleaning, and so the gun was put away dirty. Well, let's just say I've had a busy summer, and cleaning the revolver kept getting bumped down the "to do" list.

Now, after couple of months of being stored, the gun just isn't cleaning up as easily as normal. The residue doggedly resists coming off--especially around the forcing cone and on the cylinder. Normally, I just use Hoppes, a toothbrush, and a patch on these areas.

What I'm wondering is if there is a product or method that will get this gummy residue off without scratching up the metal. Any ideas out there? Any products to recommend?

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Guyon
NRA Member

[This message has been edited by Guyon (edited August 03, 2000).]
 
Lead-away cloth wipes lead and carbon residue away from stainless (not blued) revolver cylinders like magic. My gun dealer told me about it. There's a couple of different brands, I use Birchwood-Casey, I think. The cloths are way too big, so cut it off in 1" strips.

Flitz also works good for final polishing.

Regards,

Ledbetter

[This message has been edited by Ledbetter (edited August 03, 2000).]
 
Thanks Ledbetter. Can you get these lead away cloths at WalMart, or will I have to go to a sporting goods or gun store?

Also, I've read a few posts about Breakfree, but I have no idea what it is. Anybody?

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Guyon
NRA Member
 
You might get those cloths at XYZ-Mart, but how about visiting your local gunshop?

BreakFree CLP is a Mil-Spec cleaner/lubricant/protective fluid that is, without question, the best gun lube available.

It is NOT the best cleaner or rust prevention.

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"All my ammo is factory ammo"
 
Have you tried NAVAL JELLY? When I had to carry a M-66, I used it to clean the revolver after shooting the junk ammo we were issued for practice. Just don't use it on blued pistols.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"
 
For stainless steel guns only:
(1) cut 1 inch squares of any lead-free cloth and soak half the patch with Hoppes Benchrest of Shooters Choice
(2) Cut a 4-5 inch piece of 3/8 inch dowel and chisel the end to make a relatively sharp straight edge. This allows you to place a lot of pressure on the surface to be cleaned without scratching the surface.
(3)For lead or carbon build up around the forcing cone use a round Lewis lead free screen
(4) Heat the gun with a hairdryer. This facilitates the chemical reaction between the solvent and the lead/copper/carbon residue
I have been cleaning my 44 magnum guns for years in this fashion. They are spotless.Good luck!
Herb

[This message has been edited by Herb Leventhal (edited August 03, 2000).]
 
Hey fellers,

Don't misinterpret. It's not that I prefer Wally World to a local merchant. In fact, I'd rather be almost anywhere than WalMart--where the lines are plentiful and the service nonexistent. It's just that I wanted to clean the pistol before I go to the range in the morning, and all the gun shops close at 5 or 6. WalMart is open 24-7 (its only good point).

Thanks for the info folks.

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Guyon
NRA Member
 
Try using a cleaner shooting combination. Lead bullet lube, for instance, is nasty.

You can use Scotchbrite scouring pads, but don't go crazy. Takes a bit so do damage and cleans up easily. Does leave scratches on cylinder and other exterior surfaces if you get too energetic.
 
The question should ALWAYS be, "Can I get this at my gun shop or do I ...HAVE ....to go to jobkiller China-Mart?"

I would like to have the time to put flyers on windshields at *** Mart reminding the customers that every purchase kills a job and puts an independent retailer out of business.
 
Point made, I think. All Guyon wants is some advice about cleaning guns. He acknowledged the Walmart issue, and he knows what time the gunshops close. I'm sure he knows what time they open, too. ;)

Regards to all,

Ledbetter
 
I've had great results using Hornady's "One Shot" cleaner on my stainless Mark II Ruger. Takes off the black stuff like nothing I've ever seen! Then again, I've not tried a lot of the other products mentioned here...
 
Ledbetter,

Many thanks for the tip on the lead-away cloths! Worked like a charm. I spent about a half an hour yesterday scrubbing the cylinder with Hoppes on a toothbrush with only minimal results. With the cloths today, the residue was gone in five minutes, and my cylinder once again shines like new. Now I'm no longer ashamed to take the revolver to the range. I highly recommend these cloths to anyone cleaning stainless guns (the package states that they clean nickel too).

BTW: You all will be pleased to hear I wound up waiting until the next day to clean (it had been two months...what's another day?), so I wound up going to my local gun shop anyway.

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Guyon
NRA Member
 
Guyon,

Glad they worked for you. BTW, they keep working after they look filthy. Use them in small strips and that cloth will last a year or two. Don't throw the used strips away too early. They work great inside the cylinder too, and you can use them like floss in small spots.

I did the same thing you did. I cleaned and cleaned with Hoppe's, toothbrush and Breakfree. Result--not too clean. Knew my local gun guy would know how to clean stainless cylinder faces fast and easy, which he did.

Regards,

Ledbetter
 
Ledbetter,

Thanks for the tip. I just retrieved a strip from the garbage. It is still tacky, so I imagine it'll still remove residue. Stuck it in an old film container that seals tightly. That should keep it from drying out.



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Guyon
NRA Member
 
I don't know what it is with my 686-4,but I get a tough residue on the front edges of my cylinder.The forcing cone has been done and the gap between the barrel and the cylinder has been set neatly at 4 thou.The gun is very very accurate with 138gr BNWC's at 4.3 gr of WST--I have tried various solvents and impregnated rags--but it is h-a-r-d work.Finally I took to an aluminium scraper which does the trick.
 
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