If I'm not in the proper area for this post, I apologize. I have a Ruger Super Redhawk in stainless steel and was wondering if it would be ok to clean the exterior of the cylinder with a scotch brite pad and windex (or similar cleaner) or even possibly some fine steel wool? The front exterior of the cylinder is starting to get a bit funky and I'm not sure if it's heat discoloration or something that will clean off.
Cleaning Stainless Steel
- Thread starter Dgremlin
- Start date
Whoa... I would have to recommend against that. If the powder burn bothers you, I would recommend using Lead-Clean Gun Cloth from Pro-Shot Products. It will remove the blackening.
Two things to note if you use it:
1) Keep the cloth away from any firearms with any sort of finish as it will reportedly remove the finish (including blueing). The cloth should only be used on stainless steel.
2) I would recommend using nitrile gloves when using the cloth. Anything that is powerful enough to take out the burns is certainly not something I want to come into contact with my skin.
Finally, if you use a steel wool pad or any other such product on your guns, I have read that they can leave behind microscopic particles of rust-prone particles which can encourage the rusting of the metal of the gun itself. Stick to products designed for gun care and you will be fine.
Two things to note if you use it:
1) Keep the cloth away from any firearms with any sort of finish as it will reportedly remove the finish (including blueing). The cloth should only be used on stainless steel.
2) I would recommend using nitrile gloves when using the cloth. Anything that is powerful enough to take out the burns is certainly not something I want to come into contact with my skin.
Finally, if you use a steel wool pad or any other such product on your guns, I have read that they can leave behind microscopic particles of rust-prone particles which can encourage the rusting of the metal of the gun itself. Stick to products designed for gun care and you will be fine.
BigBoreKindaGuy
New member
Seed is on point in his suggestion to use Lead-Clean Gun Cloth from Pro-Shot.
The use of any gloves when using the cloth is unnecessary however because the palmer skin surfaces of the hand are quite thick and resistent to that particular cloth. I have repeated used that cloth on my SS revolvers and the removal of the burns and grit are just fantastic. I have not used any gloves and have never had a problem with skin irritation of any kind.
The use of any gloves when using the cloth is unnecessary however because the palmer skin surfaces of the hand are quite thick and resistent to that particular cloth. I have repeated used that cloth on my SS revolvers and the removal of the burns and grit are just fantastic. I have not used any gloves and have never had a problem with skin irritation of any kind.
I'll agree that pro-shot lead away does a great job. I tried all sorts of crap to clean off the black marks on the front of the cylinder without success , then when I tried this lead away I was amazed how this cloth works took it right off. Its almost like an pencil eraser type material. very impressed with it.
You might also consider trying a little Flitz on a cotton cloth too - great stuff for SS. I use it periodically to remove blackening on the cylinder face of my GP-100 and it literally wipes away with very little effort. Get it at any hardware store...
Flitz Metal Polishes
Flitz Metal Polishes
An alternative to Lead Away is Hoppe's Rust & Lead remover cloth...>
...most likely a very similar product. I just used Hoppe's cloth for the first time recently to clean the fouling on the forcing cone area and the front of the cylinder of a stainless Taurus .357. I also ran it in patches through the chambers to take care of the buildup of fouling from shooting the shorter .38spl rounds. It took a bit of scrubbing but it completely removed the fouling. Talking of fouling, the cloth itself is quite foul smelling but didn't irritate my skin. It's inexpensive and there's enough cloth for many cleanings.
...most likely a very similar product. I just used Hoppe's cloth for the first time recently to clean the fouling on the forcing cone area and the front of the cylinder of a stainless Taurus .357. I also ran it in patches through the chambers to take care of the buildup of fouling from shooting the shorter .38spl rounds. It took a bit of scrubbing but it completely removed the fouling. Talking of fouling, the cloth itself is quite foul smelling but didn't irritate my skin. It's inexpensive and there's enough cloth for many cleanings.
For the record, my concern about skin contact had less to do with skin irritation and more to do with potential solvent penetration through and beyond the skin. I have NO proof that any ingredient in these cloths are indeed harmful, however I have my fears and suspicions. I figure it is wise to be on the safe side when handling any solvent-containing chemical mixtures (or cloths) and wear gloves. Of course, MANY gun care products contain solvents and so I often sport gloves when cleaning. An example of a product with which I am not too concerned about this issue is FP10, which has no solvent in it.
BigBoreKindaGuy
New member
seed...interesting point about chemical infusion through the pores. 
....never thought about that !
....never thought about that !I use Proshot 1 step cleaner and lub, spray or wipe on let sit 5 min and wipe off,some spots you may need a small BRASS brush.I love the stuff but can be hard to find.Also just a good cleaning with a good gun oil works and the BRASS brush 
If you don't get the black all off it just gets harder to remove.
If you don't get the black all off it just gets harder to remove.I ran by my local gun shop this morning to pick up some polish. They didn't have anything by Pro Shot but I picked up a Lead-Clean cloth from Bore Kleen and WOW! This thing took all the carbon and discoloration off the cylinder like it was dust .I was really impressed. It didn't even smell that bad. The shop owner did warn me about it taking off bluing if you're not careful.