Cleaning shotguns (and other types)

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fishblade2

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ive read that shotguns should use grease instead of oil when cleaning. what about cleaning the shotgun barrel? Shouldn't you use oil on/in it? I have learned from others that even on pistols you don't use oil except on the barrel and dab some on other places. Would you recommend using grease on the pistol blowback slides? What about oiling the gun at all to help preserve it while it rest in a case? If oil would be used then would you dry it off throughly before use? What about stainless steel guns for cleaning and storage?
 
If you have a O/U or S/S shotgun the forces on the hinge pin and locking wedge are quite high .There's where you use grease and in fact there are special greases for high pressure applications . I use RIG +P but I don't think that's still available but there are others.

To remove plastic deposits from the bore there are special compounds for that too.

Other places need only typical gun oils.
 
Just to be clear - you don't use either oil nor grease when cleaning. You use it after cleaning.
 
Please note there is no one universal cleaner lubricant, you use cleaning solvents just for removing powder/wad fouling, and then apply oil/grease were required.
 
Brake cleaner inside the barrels and on the choke threads will clean those areas immediately. Grease on choke tub threads when reinstalling and on the hinge pin. Wipe down the metal areas with a good gun oil to prevent rust
 
There is no consensus on lubes ....even among experienced shooters...

On O/U's, I use Rig grease on the barrel to receiver connection.../ no lube anywhere else on receiver ( except a light spray oil on the internal mechanism inside the butt stock - on springs and firing pins ..and I mean light.

On Semi-autos and pumps ...I use "Break Free" as a lube on the rails, internal sliding components ( never any grease).

On all my shotguns - regardless of type ...I use Break Free oil on the threads and choke tubes ( never grease).

I always run an oiled patch down the barrel - after the barrels are clean. I will often spritz the outside of the gun after its cleaned and fully assembled and ready to go back in the safe ...with some WD 40 and wipe it down with a couple of paper towels ...to get the finger prints, hand oils, any sun screen, etc off of the stocks - or outside parts of the gun.
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On all of my handguns - I don't use any grease on rails, etc ...but I do use Break Free oil or Wilson Ultima lube on rails, barrels, bushings, hammer strut springs, recoil springs, etc ...
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so we all debate this stuff ....but we're talking about lube after cleaning ...not cleaning !!
 
There are a myriad of very good high-load / extreme pressure greases.

This is one area where the industial or automotive application for EP grease translate perfectly to the firearm application.

Almost any lithium or moly EP grease will work fine.

Be carefull with brake cleaners / engine degreasers. Actually I would stay away from brake cleaners altogether. A lot of brake cleaners contain chlorinated esters. Chlorinated esters are very reactive and make great cleaners, however they also react with steel to create micro-fissures. The brake cleaner application is for metal that is going to be ground down. It is no big deal to have chlorinated ester on your rotor... the first few microns of the surface that have the chlorinated ester on them wears down through the braking action anyway. Shotgun barrels are not meant to be worn away by degree... I wouldn't put brake cleaner in it. For other products like carb cleaner / engine degreaser - if you do decide to use cleaners like that - make sure you only buy the stuff that says "NON-CHLORINATED".
 
okay so oil is after cleaning. Gotcha. So how does the lube differ from the oil? Does it clean better? I have also noticed that with oil I find that gunpowder residue sticks to it like crazy and it's even worse to clean after. How does this differ in lube? Would you use lube or oil to clean down the inside of the barrel? With either one should it be throughly dried afterwards (I mean if it's going to be shot soon again). Lastly, I know you guys said that there are cleaners to remove plastic deposits as well. Could I just use an oiled patch and send it down the barrel to remove the deposits or would this not work? (just don't want 50 different cleaners and stuff to clean my gun :) Thanks for all the help by the way guys! Most appreciated.
 
oh and I forgot one thing. What about rubbing alcohol? Would that damage the gun or could that be good for cleaning? If not what about in pistols? Oh and for the oiling part can I use ballistol? The reason I'm not sure is so many companies now make lubricants that are suppose to oil the gun too and I don't want that. I just want a oil and a lubricant for the cleaning part.
 
Kind of like waking into the auto parts store looking at the different engine oils. Each tells you it's the greatest oil since sliced bread. One way or another they(oils) all come out of the ground and lube machinery, engines, and guns.

Oils and lubricants don't clean, they prevent metal to metal contact.
 
There is no consensus on lubes ....even among experienced shooters...​
Amen, Brother Jim. But, there is an agreement that you clean then lube.
 
You can buy a gun cleaning kit that has everything you will ever need in it. They come complete in a 6" X 12" or so box with cleaning rod, bore brush, patch holder, jag, a box of patches, a small bottle of oil, and a small bottle of solvent.

Solvent is for cleaning. It dissolves grease, oil, powder fouling, metal fouling, hand/skin oils, and lifts (floats) salts. You disassemble, scrub, wipe off solvent, then oil to prevent rust.

Bore brushes are for cleaning the bore. You put solvent on them, and push them through the bore repatedly to scrub any fouling loose.

Patches are for wiping and swabbing the bore. After scrubbing the bore, you soak a patch with solvent, then run it through the bore on the cleaning rod using the patch holder loop, then run several dry patches through the bore to dry it. An oiled patch to lightly coat the bore with oil is recommended.

Wipe down the exterior of the gun with a patch or small brush soaked with solvent. Wipe with a dry patch. Wipe with an oily patch or a larger rag to leave a light coat of oil behind. This helps prevent rust.

That is all you really need, but as you can tell, many people do other stuff because they want to or have learned that it helps. Except for WD40, I do a lot of the same things. It will not take up a lot of space nor fill up shelves with "stuff".

And then there are the people who turn cleaning into a ritual . . .:rolleyes:

Rubbing alcohol is 50% propanol and 50% water. I try to avoid putting anything onto metal that is 50% water.
 
So how does the lube differ from the oil? Does it clean better?
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You still aren't getting the point. Neither oil nor lube cleans anything. They are there AFTER the cleaning to protect and lubricate.

As to getting powder in your oil, that is because it is on too thick. Having excess oil while your gun is stored doesn't really hurt anything. However, when you go to shoot it that layer of oil should be only microns thick. The exception to that is on auto slides and a very few pivot/wear points. Field strip your well-oiled guns just before you hit the range and give them a really good wipedown with a dust-free cloth. Wipe the bore too.
 
You're making this way too hard on yourself fishblade...

Just get a solvent - like a 4oz bottle of Hoppes ( that will last a lifetime)...
and a 4oz bottle of Break Free clp for lube ...and your done...

stay away from household chemicals, automotive chemicals...etc ...
 
One thing about Breakfree CLP is that it passed the Army's tests and was adopted by the Army for Cleaning, Lubricating and Protecting.
 
A lot of brake cleaners contain chlorinated esters.
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Which is why you use only the non-chlorinated stuff (which is basically the same solvent as half the gun cleaners) and ONLY INSIDE the barrels and on the choke tubes. That is the only stuff I have found to clean the grit from the choke tube threads immediately. Since it is a powerful solvent - it strips everything off the metal - regrease/lubrication is essential afterwards
 
Either brake cleaner inside the barrels and choke tubes or something like Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's cleaner

Save the oil and lube for afterwards
 
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