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cleaning rods
- Thread starter NHSHOOTER
- Start date
Mosin-Marauder
New member
There are people that say particles can get "trapped" in anything other than steel and can act as an abrasive. Personally I see this as untrue.After working with steel a long time, I can tell you that an "abrasive" is a lot less harmful than full steel-on-steal contact. There are also some people that say steel rods don't harm bores, again, I find this untrue. Over a long period of cleaning, a steel rod will wear away more than a softer metal or nylon. I'd go with a brass or aluminum or Dewey coated rod. A lot less likely to do damage to your rifle. And bore snakes leave crud in the bore.
Dewey coated one-piece rods are popular with folks producing best results in competition. So's a solid stainless steel rod. None of 'em use soft metal rods such as aluminum or brass. But use a cleaning rod guide in the receiver to keep them aligned with the bore and not lap away the rifling at its origin. Use a rod diameter as big as possible that fits your bore easily; they're stiffer and easier to use.
Best wishes using what you feel most comfortable with.
Best wishes using what you feel most comfortable with.
Lucas McCain
New member
Bart nailed it, he was typing when I was also.
Take a look at the on-line offerings of Sinclair International . They only handle quality cleaning rods. You don't want a jointed rod, definitely not an aluminum or brass rod. The biggest problem with them is that they aren't stiff enough to keep from bending when being run down the bore with a patch and contacting the rifling. IMHO there is nothing wrong with a good quality steel rod with a jewelry finish, that is made out of spring steel that don't bend. They have the proper finish and work excellent.
The other half of proper cleaning rod use is a bore guide, one that fits into the chamber of the rifle and protects the throat in front of the chamber from the cleaning rod rubbing on it. For those rifles that are cleaned from the muzzle you need a bore guide to protect the crown on the rifle from contacting the riflings at the crown. Cleaning from the muzzle is the only way to clean some rifles. But it is the least desirable to clean a rifle. Clean it from the breech if at all possible.
Also you need the proper sized swabs to wipe out the chambers and throat when your done cleaning the barrel. Some of the stuff you scrub out of the barrel can get in the chancre and even the locking lug area. Locking lugs areas (both bolt and breech)are the most neglect items when guns are cleaned. It don't get cleaned then they blame the ammo when it don't close properly.
I also only use brushes and swabs that have bronze twists that are round on the end. To many brushes and swabs sold at LGS have steel twists that are cut and have sharp ends. Something like that is not what I want shoved down any of my gun barrels. Way to much potential for damage to occur to the rifling.
I mentioned Sinclair for cleaning rods. They handle Pro-Shot, Montana-Extreme, Dewey and some others. Their products are high quality and they do cost a fair amount of $.
We pay a good price for a quality rifle, probably put a quality piece of glass to achieve the best accuracy possible from the gun. Does it make any sense at all to go the cheap route when it comes to cleaning equipment. Using proper cleaning equipment and procedures has more effect on long term accuracy of the rifle, than anything else.
Take a look at the on-line offerings of Sinclair International . They only handle quality cleaning rods. You don't want a jointed rod, definitely not an aluminum or brass rod. The biggest problem with them is that they aren't stiff enough to keep from bending when being run down the bore with a patch and contacting the rifling. IMHO there is nothing wrong with a good quality steel rod with a jewelry finish, that is made out of spring steel that don't bend. They have the proper finish and work excellent.
The other half of proper cleaning rod use is a bore guide, one that fits into the chamber of the rifle and protects the throat in front of the chamber from the cleaning rod rubbing on it. For those rifles that are cleaned from the muzzle you need a bore guide to protect the crown on the rifle from contacting the riflings at the crown. Cleaning from the muzzle is the only way to clean some rifles. But it is the least desirable to clean a rifle. Clean it from the breech if at all possible.
Also you need the proper sized swabs to wipe out the chambers and throat when your done cleaning the barrel. Some of the stuff you scrub out of the barrel can get in the chancre and even the locking lug area. Locking lugs areas (both bolt and breech)are the most neglect items when guns are cleaned. It don't get cleaned then they blame the ammo when it don't close properly.
I also only use brushes and swabs that have bronze twists that are round on the end. To many brushes and swabs sold at LGS have steel twists that are cut and have sharp ends. Something like that is not what I want shoved down any of my gun barrels. Way to much potential for damage to occur to the rifling.
I mentioned Sinclair for cleaning rods. They handle Pro-Shot, Montana-Extreme, Dewey and some others. Their products are high quality and they do cost a fair amount of $.
We pay a good price for a quality rifle, probably put a quality piece of glass to achieve the best accuracy possible from the gun. Does it make any sense at all to go the cheap route when it comes to cleaning equipment. Using proper cleaning equipment and procedures has more effect on long term accuracy of the rifle, than anything else.
Dewey rods are popular with me.
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ories/cleaning-rods/coated-rods-prod5641.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ories/cleaning-rods/coated-rods-prod5641.aspx