What tools do you folks use to clean the gunk off of the ass end of your revolver cylinders and the breech plug ends of your muzzle loading barrels? I have no problem with cleaning the 'length' of the barrels and cylinders, themselves, however. I do have a problem scraping the bottom dwelling goo clean.
Cleaning Question
- Thread starter Brubaker
- Start date
Bishop Creek
New member
On my .44 Colt and Remington cap and ball cylinders I use a .45 cal copper wire brush on the end of my cleaning rod. Spin it around several times in each cylinder hole with a quick spray of Ballistol (with the nipples off) after soaking in hot water. Then finish with a dry patch or .45 cal bore mop.
Problem is... the cleaning brushes have a wire loop on the end that prevents the bristles from contacting the bottom of the cylinders. I guess that I could remove the nipples and let that wire loop go into the threaded hole where the nipples once were, as mentioned by Bishop Creek (thank you, will do), however. That wont solve the problem with my muzzleloaders and dirty breech plugs. I don't care to remove my breech plugs just to scrub and clean. Any suggestions?
I was thinking about dropping a ball of steel wool into my revolver cylinders, followed by a custom made rod that would grab the steel wool and allow me to spin it around while putting pressure on the wool. I could then flip the rod to the 'other' end with a wool fishing hook that would pull the wool ball out. This would allow me to get down deep without removing the nipples, so I'm thinking (Hmm... maybe chuck it up in a drill motor and spin it like I mean it). What do you think? Good idea, or bad? What do you think about steel wool being spun around in the back of a revolver cylinder, back behind where a ball would rest when loaded?
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Check out the local college store, particularly if they have a good chemistry dept.
There is a brush called a "test tube brush" which is like a bore brush but with a rounded bristled tip for getting to the bottom of test tubes. Its perfect for the job.
http://www.scientificsonline.com/product/test-tube-brush
There is a brush called a "test tube brush" which is like a bore brush but with a rounded bristled tip for getting to the bottom of test tubes. Its perfect for the job.
http://www.scientificsonline.com/product/test-tube-brush
DD4lifeusmc
New member
cleaning
all I have ever used is plain rubbing alcohol on the entire gun.
In cylinder chamber,I never remove nipples let whole thing soak.
then a q-tip wipes all the gunk clean.
could use a small dowel (wood, inkpen, screwdriver) and a patch too.
In a rifle many use the patent breech design which is much smaller than the bore.
Cover the nipple with something non porous let hammer down. pour couple ounces of rubbing alcohol in the barrel. let soak a few minutes.
Pour out.
Remove nipple and in my CVA the drum screw. Clean with brush and then patches.
If going to brush the patent breech use a much smaller brush or you chance getting it stuck
they make (and I have) breech brushes and scrapers.
Pipe cleaner works good in the flash channel, but so does a small cotton cloth twisted into it.
Back of cylinder. yep an old tooth brush
But because of the way I clean and lube, I don't normally have any caked on gunk, that won't just wipe off with the R.A.
And I don't use any of the exotic stuff on the market, like ballistoil or Remoil or such.
Just a gunoil and a natural lube we all can make.
all I have ever used is plain rubbing alcohol on the entire gun.
In cylinder chamber,I never remove nipples let whole thing soak.
then a q-tip wipes all the gunk clean.
could use a small dowel (wood, inkpen, screwdriver) and a patch too.
In a rifle many use the patent breech design which is much smaller than the bore.
Cover the nipple with something non porous let hammer down. pour couple ounces of rubbing alcohol in the barrel. let soak a few minutes.
Pour out.
Remove nipple and in my CVA the drum screw. Clean with brush and then patches.
If going to brush the patent breech use a much smaller brush or you chance getting it stuck
they make (and I have) breech brushes and scrapers.
Pipe cleaner works good in the flash channel, but so does a small cotton cloth twisted into it.
Back of cylinder. yep an old tooth brush
But because of the way I clean and lube, I don't normally have any caked on gunk, that won't just wipe off with the R.A.
And I don't use any of the exotic stuff on the market, like ballistoil or Remoil or such.
Just a gunoil and a natural lube we all can make.
Keep that thought, it works
Typically, my .50 breach-plug is a small diameter cup. roughly 1/4" diameter. Most of my scrapers are too large to fit into this "pocket". I take a worn brush and put a small patch of 000 steel wool onto that wire loop end you mentioned. I slowly lower it done to the top of the cup and them rotate it, into the cup. Of course I have solvent down there as well. I keep rotating it, around the bottom of the cup and when I think it has don't it's job, I slowly bring it back out. The steel wool is actually captured in the bristles of the brush and it all comes out just fine. When you clear the bore, you will note that the steel wool has actually been formed to the shape of the cup. Follow-up with a swab and patch. .....
Good luck and;
Be Safe !!!
OKAY, Lets work with that thought and it's a good one or at least, one that I use. Since I shoot very little C&B revolvers here is what I use on my rifles. ..
Typically, my .50 breach-plug is a small diameter cup. roughly 1/4" diameter. Most of my scrapers are too large to fit into this "pocket". I take a worn brush and put a small patch of 000 steel wool onto that wire loop end you mentioned. I slowly lower it done to the top of the cup and them rotate it, into the cup. Of course I have solvent down there as well. I keep rotating it, around the bottom of the cup and when I think it has don't it's job, I slowly bring it back out. The steel wool is actually captured in the bristles of the brush and it all comes out just fine. When you clear the bore, you will note that the steel wool has actually been formed to the shape of the cup. Follow-up with a swab and patch. .....
Good luck and;
Be Safe !!!
We are "over thinking" this, but I use a saturated patch on a hemostat to swab out the cylinder and also when in the shop I blow dry the cylinder and nipples.
Shot my pair of Navies today, ran a solvent soaked patch down the barrel and rotated the cylinder to get all 6 chambers, before leaving the range, that leaves most of the smell there not in the house.
Shot my pair of Navies today, ran a solvent soaked patch down the barrel and rotated the cylinder to get all 6 chambers, before leaving the range, that leaves most of the smell there not in the house.
dagger dog
New member
They sell chamber brushes looks like a mini' brass whisk broom threaded for a ram rod , not the whisk broom for flintlocks, a fellow on ebay has a store pilgrimagearts sells them. they work well.
"Ball of Steel Wool"
Rather than using a ball of steel wool in the cylinder, I'd recommend using brass cleaning pad material like "Chore Boy". This cleans everything out of the cylinder, without leaving any scratches behind. Just be sure to use a true brass pad (not brass plated steel, like many are).
Rather than using a ball of steel wool in the cylinder, I'd recommend using brass cleaning pad material like "Chore Boy". This cleans everything out of the cylinder, without leaving any scratches behind. Just be sure to use a true brass pad (not brass plated steel, like many are).
FrontierGander
New member
A while back I had been using these and never took pictures. So here we go! Birchwood Casey Swauber Applicators. They are nice and snug inside my Traditions 1860 Army .44cal and I can FULLY clean the cylinder, inside and out with the swauber. Remove the nipples and you can get all inside of the cut out ( Use Q tip for the nipple threads inside the cylinder) and the cylinder is completely cleaned. When it comes time to dry and oil, Use a fresh swauber to get it done fast and easy.
For getting inside the barrel where rammer is, along with the wedge key, the swauber easily gets inside there snugly and gets it fully clean. I wish had I found these years ago when I had my first .44cal BP Revolver.
They also work excellent in my brothers 1851 Navy .36cal revolver. Nice and snug, they catch all the fouling and swab it away.
If you use products like bore butter or frog lube, heat the metal up, apply a small amount to a fresh clean swauber and lube all the parts properly.
To get your moneys worth, wash the main cleaner swauber with hot soapy water, hang dry it and with a magic marker, use sandwitch bags and label each swauber so you don't waste them on just one cleaning!
I wish they made them long enough to reach completely through my 1860's 8" barrel!
For getting inside the barrel where rammer is, along with the wedge key, the swauber easily gets inside there snugly and gets it fully clean. I wish had I found these years ago when I had my first .44cal BP Revolver.
They also work excellent in my brothers 1851 Navy .36cal revolver. Nice and snug, they catch all the fouling and swab it away.
If you use products like bore butter or frog lube, heat the metal up, apply a small amount to a fresh clean swauber and lube all the parts properly.
To get your moneys worth, wash the main cleaner swauber with hot soapy water, hang dry it and with a magic marker, use sandwitch bags and label each swauber so you don't waste them on just one cleaning!
I wish they made them long enough to reach completely through my 1860's 8" barrel!