Cleaning powder burns from around the forcing cone

M

Mike H

New member
Ok, so I managed to scratch the paintlike finish on my wife's new S&W 642 around the forcing cone by trying to get every last powder burn removed.

The stubborn "line of grime" in the right angle made by the top strap seems to need a nuclear device to shift it.

So just what solvents can cut right through this crud without damaging the finish.

I never have been able to clean revolvers properly in this area of the frame. Any advice appreciated.



Thanks

Mike H
 
I don't have any "finished" revolvers. On a stainless revolver, a bronze or steel brush with nitro solvent works.

It also doesn't hurt if you don't get every last bit off. As you found out, vigorous cleaning efforts are likely to damage the gun while leaving the stains won't hurt a thing.
 
It's actually not a good idea to remove all of the fouling as it does act as a slight form of protection from the cutting effects of the escaping gasses. I usually do just a cursory cleaning of the area around the forcing cone and just behind it on the top strap. Just enough to remove the big chunks that might fall into the works and bind things up. A small amount of fouling from smokeless residue and non corrsive primers is only cosmetic.

I use Ballistol and a nylon and/or a worn out bronze brush to work that area over on blued guns. On Nickel and stainless guns, I use a small strip of Lead Away cloth and "buff it" ala shoeshine style. I only really scrub that area down every once in a while to check the condition of things, or if the gun is going into extended storage.
 
Ill vouch for that "lead away" cloth, its amazing how well it works. but still difficult trying to clean above the forcing cone , tight space. still it just needs to be clean enough to function. lead away rocks on cleaning the front of the cylinder, it will bring it to a new looking condition.but it is to only be used on ss guns.
 
I would think any of the barrel cleaners would work.I use proshot when I figure it is getting to much I soak it down leave it sit 5 Min then hit it a few times with a BRASS brush.Not sure what a steel brush would do to the blueing :)
 
I use a homemade tool for scraping fouling out of the forcing cone/top strap area. I take a 30-06 case, grind about half of the cartridge neck off of it on a bench grinder and then flatten what remains by squeezing it in a bench vise. That makes a brass scraper that can get into a cranny fairly well.

Over the years I have found that fouling is easiest to remove while the gun is still warm from firing. Difficulty increases with time. If you clean it the next day, it is still easier than next week will be, but the same-day cleaning works best on virtually anything. I can clean the front of the cylinder face with a nylon bristle brush if I clean within an hour of shooting. Wait a day, and it will need to be a brass bristle brush. Wait a week, and I have to trot out the Lead-Away cloth backed by a Popsicle stick.

Clemson
 
I keep several used dental picks and hemostats with my cleaning supplies for getting into tight areas like this. I have some dental picks that are small in diameter, but dull so that they don't scratch the metal. The hemostats work great......I clamp a patch soaked in solvent and can clean all the tight spots. I also have a tube of cleaner (Isso brand I think) that is pink in color and about the consistancy of toothpaste. It removes the powder/lead fouling from stainless steel like magic. Works great to clean revolver cylinders.
 
Forcing cone cleaner

Hi, I like to put a good amount of Break-Free CLP on the gun and let it sit for a week and then clean the gun. The Break-Free will penetrate the crud and it comes off a lot faster and with out the elbow grease. it can not hurt the gun, give it a try. Good Luck
 
Flitz!!!

I was turned onto flitz when I bought my most recent stainless revolver and now use it exclusively.

I put a dab of the paste on a corner of the flitz towel and all that crap (even LEAD) comes out.

I have plastic scrub pads that also work just fine.
 
Try as small piece of plastic screen. Spray the cone with solvent or crud cleaner. Then fold the piece of sreen in 2. It will slide right in between the upper cone and the frame. Pull it back, forth and around a few times and everything should be fine.
 
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