Cleaning new type alloy finishes

S

SteelToe

New member
Hey all I have a new S&W 642. It is the airwieght or whatever model that is 15 ounces. The outside is some sort of titanium I beleive. What is the best way to clean this gun? I do not want to use solvents at all if possible to avoid messing up the outside finish. I did see the other cleaning thread but wanted tips on my specific gun.

I have been just using a dry paper towel to get the lead marks off the outside. Can I oil the outside on this gun? Can I oil the wheel inside and out? I read that oil inside wheel can cause misfire?

Also last and most important I carry this in my pocket. I worry alot about possible lead poisoning and also what type of oil to put on that will not irritate my skin if it soaked into my pocket. Thanks everyone for any hints and tips.

Take care!
 
I believe some of the superlite model have a steel liner in the cylinders that is very thin. I believe a lead-free cloth would be approprate for cleaning all non-blue guns. Oil will not be a problem on the surfaces, but you don't need much. Lead issues can be dealt with by a good cleaning. Wear latex gloves if you are concerned with the cleaning process.
 
The 642 has a stainless cylinder and barrel. The frame is aluminum alloy, and the whole gun is "clear coated".

642_2r.jpg


To clean, I use Hoppes #9 and a nylon brush outside, and a bronze bore brush for the barrel and cylinder charge holes. I don't worry about the burn marks on the front of the cylinder. What ever doesn't come off with the Hoppes and nylon bruch, just stays.

Any quality gun oil should be fine inside and out. Just remember to dry fire it a bit, and then wipe off alll the excess.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
There are several threads here on the topic of cleaning alloy or titanium revolvers with the clear coats. Do a search using the terms 'clear coat solvent titanium', and you should find some.

In a nutshell, using BreakFree CLP and a nylon brush is recommended by S&W. Using some solvents, particularly some of the carb cleaner, brake cleaner or gun cleaner sprays, can remove the clear coat.
 
eezox

I am using Eezox on Scandium, on stainless, on blued and parkerised finishes. No problem so far.

Not harsh on finishes but awesome corrosion resistance and non-sticky action.
Do a search for Eezox on this forum, or on eBay. some very interesting corrosion test results.
 
There are the super light weight frames of scandium. Titanium is normaly used for the cylinders and scandium for the frames. This produced an amazing combination wherein the weight of the revolver is about 340-350 gms. A full load 357 magnum round of about 158 grain can safely be fired from this revolver. A little scandium added to aluminium results in an alloy with great strenght(high tensile strenght and fatigue resistance). However to explain to you the mechanics of this combination one has to go into quantum theory which is not the topic of your interest at present.
How please use a light grade oil for lubrication and do not soak the revolver in it. A few drops at the right place such as hammer sides, trigger mechanism, crane portion where the cylinder is fixed(extractor/ejector rod). You are right when you say that oil can cause a misfire. This is because oil on the firing pin can atomise the air between the pin and the cartridge thereby forming an air lock/bubble which reduces the force required to trigger combustion in the charge. Therefore clean the firing pin thoroughly by depressing the same and then with a cloth singlet material) remove any trace of oil on the surface of the pin. Lead poisoning is harmful only when consumed internally. so don't worry. Use recommended handgun lubricants.(very low viscosity).

al pac
 
This is because oil on the firing pin can atomise the air between the pin and the cartridge thereby forming an air lock/bubble which reduces the force required to trigger combustion in the charge.
Click to expand...


Say what? Could you explain this? If the force is reduced or huh, it's harder? Wow you lost me, could you please put that in less erudite language for me? I don't understand what you said. Thanks.
 
I have a grad degree in chemistry from over twenty years ago, and from that perspective, the talk about 'the air atomizing, etc. ' makes no sense. Oil on the firing pin can indeed cause a misfire if the quantity of oil is sufficient to soak the primers, but an air lock/bubble? I don't think so.
 
meddac19/Millcreek,
Sorry if I upset you with the atomising stuff. But as a matter of fact with due respect to your grad degree in chemistry for over 20 years, atomising is normally carried to the fuel medium to optimise cumbustion in a combustion chamber. Pressurised air is mixed with fuel in the gun nozzle to achieve high efficiencies in burning. so i felt this phenomenon could take place in the air gap between the firing pin and the surface of the cartridge when there are traces of oil however I may be wrong . I try to apply my degrees to real life situations too. but hell no I am not pushing my point across. I am open to correction from my more experienced colleagues.
regards al pac
Steeltoe, Sorry pal no further comments.-al

PS: MillCreek: Good to know that we can share knowledge through our areas of specialisation.(Check profile).
redards al
 
Andre, I agree completely with the concept of a liquid fuel combusting better in a closed chamber when introduced into that chamber in a fine spray or mist. My car engines certainly seem to approve of this approach!

However, from a combustion engineering or thermodynamic standpoint, this is very different than what happens when a primer ignites the solid propellant contained within a handgun cartridge. The atmospheric pressure at the time of ignition is at ambient, and indeed is not necessary to enable cartridge ignition, as evidenced by the ability to discharge a firearm underwater or in a vacuum. Using metallic cartridges, ignition takes place entirely within the cartridge, not at the firing pin/cartridge interface, and if there is any sort of visible flame at the point of the firing pin striking the primer, something is very wrong, such as a pierced primer or the like.
 
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