Cleaning my Garand

saands

New member
I am pretty good ... ok religious ... about cleaning my guns after I use them. I have had an M1 Garand for a while now and have done my duty with respect to the receiver, barrel, and trigger group. I am wondering, though, how often does the gas cylinder need to be cleaned and for that matter how does one go about cleaning it? Any help ... especially tips to make it easier ... would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill, Just go ahead and strip it down, remove the op rod and unscrew the gas cylinder plug and clean it as you would clean the bore. It is not recomended to over oil it as you reassemble it, bacause the burning powder will cause the oil to gum up. Every few hundred rounds or so should suffice.

------------------
Carlyle Hebert
 
According to the Army field manual, you SHOULD NOT oil the gas cylinder. Just clean with bore cleaner and reassemble. Any oil will supposedly "cook" and become very difficult to clean and could cause malfunctions. Hope this helps.

Ken
 
Ah, just by chance I hauled one of my Garands out of the safe Monday for a Memorial Day excursion to the range. I'd forgotten what a pleasure it is to shoot a Garand over the NM course of fire.

Anyway, I've never once cleaned a gas cylinder on any of my Garands. Well, I did, once, after I found out that some foreign surplus ammo I'd been shooting was corrosive.

The USMC manual discourages cleaning the gas cylinder, their reasoning being that the hot gas burns off the carbon, and since the fit of the piston in the cylinder is not all that tight, any particulate matter either falls out the vent hole or escapes around the piston. If carbon does accumulate from dirty ammo, the piston acts as a scraper as it goes forward. The manual notes that the gas cylinder screw can be taken out if you want to dump out this carbon, but they strongly discourage taking the cylinder off the barrel unless the rifle is in the armorer's shop for general refit. The reason for this is so you don't "wallow out" the splines on the cylinder and barrel, or otherwise mess up the timing of the gas port.

As others have noted, don't put oil or grease in the cylinder, it will just gum it up.

If you think the op rod has become worn, send it to Clint McKee at Fulton Armory - he can either sell you a new one, or have the old one "capped" to correct tolerance.

Regards,
Ken Strayhorn
Hillsborough NC
 
Thanks for the input ...
As for grease and oil ... the book I have says grease on the op rod channels, bolt engagement points, and the parts of the bolt that are sliding (they are worn shiny) ... oil only goes on the inside of the barrel and lightly at that. NO WONDER LUBE on the action!!! The friction of the grease actually keeps the rifle from beating itself to pieces.
Bill
 
Grease lightly the bolt locking recesses in the reciever and where the bolt rides in the op rod, also lightly on the face of the hammer where the bolt rides on it in recoil, when it is cocking the hammer. DO NOT grease the trigger sear engagement point, this could cause the rifle to "double".

------------------
Carlyle Hebert
 
Back
Top