cleaning magazines ?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
All metal or is there some plastic? If plastic, then disregard what I'm about to tell you. If it is one of the all-metal versions, get a can of cheap non-chorinated brake cleaner spray and a can of any good spray gun lube (I'm partical to Breakfree CLP, but any good lube will work). You'll also need a source of compressed air (you do own a compressor right? If not, canned air works fine).
Go outside and spray the brake cleaner liberally into the mag. Push down the follower while spraying to get it inside good. Let it sit for a few minutes upside down to drain. Then, hit it with the compressed air to get it well dried. Again, push down the follower while blowing to get everything dry. If it is still gummy, then repeat.
Now, give it a LITTLE shot of the lube. It doesn't take a whole lot. Hit it with a blast of compressed air to force the lube down into the magazine and blow off any excess. Your mag is now clean and relubed.
Go outside and spray the brake cleaner liberally into the mag. Push down the follower while spraying to get it inside good. Let it sit for a few minutes upside down to drain. Then, hit it with the compressed air to get it well dried. Again, push down the follower while blowing to get everything dry. If it is still gummy, then repeat.
Now, give it a LITTLE shot of the lube. It doesn't take a whole lot. Hit it with a blast of compressed air to force the lube down into the magazine and blow off any excess. Your mag is now clean and relubed.
Be Safe !!!
Rarely do I clean them and when I do, I'm not shy about taking them down. If you do decide to use brake cleaner, make sure to wear gloves or hold the parts in a rag/towel as it will desolve any oils from your hands and the spray is really cold. As usual, I give a light lube and protective coating, with a product called Strong-Arm. ...
Follow warnings on can and;
Be Safe !!!
Rarely do I clean them and when I do, I'm not shy about taking them down. If you do decide to use brake cleaner, make sure to wear gloves or hold the parts in a rag/towel as it will desolve any oils from your hands and the spray is really cold. As usual, I give a light lube and protective coating, with a product called Strong-Arm. ...
Follow warnings on can and;
Be Safe !!!
You should be okay but test !!
My first choice in solvents for general cleaning, is Mineral Spirits. It will clean and so far, have not seen it harm anything associated with firarms. Your Hoppe's cleaning solvent should be okay on plastice but try it on a small area, to confirm. ....
I have seen Carb. cleaner damage some plastics. Brake cleaner is safer than Carb. but still pretty strong. I save my brake cleaner for the really nasty metal cleaning and the spray is strong and will blow the junk out of hard to reach places. ....
Be Safe !!!
My first choice in solvents for general cleaning, is Mineral Spirits. It will clean and so far, have not seen it harm anything associated with firarms. Your Hoppe's cleaning solvent should be okay on plastice but try it on a small area, to confirm. ....
I have seen Carb. cleaner damage some plastics. Brake cleaner is safer than Carb. but still pretty strong. I save my brake cleaner for the really nasty metal cleaning and the spray is strong and will blow the junk out of hard to reach places. ....
Be Safe !!!
You should be able to press the follower down with a dowel rod or split a paint stirring stick or something that slips between the feed lips. When the button lines up with the wide spot in its channel you can pop it out. You can then release the spring pressure and remove the follower and the spring.
You can clean the disassembled parts as previously described, but I recommend using Gunzilla BC-10. Spray it in the housing and on the spring and knob/pin and let it work overnight for best results. It not only dissolves the carbon really well, but after wiping it all away you are left with a lubricating surface film that doesn't attract dust. It is vegetable-based, so it won't hurt the plastic follower as some petroleum-based hydrocarbons may.
You can clean the disassembled parts as previously described, but I recommend using Gunzilla BC-10. Spray it in the housing and on the spring and knob/pin and let it work overnight for best results. It not only dissolves the carbon really well, but after wiping it all away you are left with a lubricating surface film that doesn't attract dust. It is vegetable-based, so it won't hurt the plastic follower as some petroleum-based hydrocarbons may.
rebs said:
I've had excellent results, over the past 25+ years, by giving them a swim-'n-swirl in a pail of clean kerosene (Hess Gas station) - although mungy mags might need to soak for an hour or two before the swirl.
This is NOT an inside-the-home job....................
I shake the excess kero "off" & wipe down the exterior with an oily cloth before putting away - the kero leaves an oily residue on the inside nooks/crannies, where it's difficult to reach, and helps to preclude rusting.
(BTW - I've also cleaned my handguns the same way, after first removing the grips)
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Zhillsauditor
New member
Ultrasonic cleaner with diluted Krud Kutter, dry with compressed air, followed by light oil and wipe down. Do them all at once.
PetahW and Doyle have reminded me that you can also apply a semi-permanent lube to the steel parts of the magazine, including the spring, by soaking them in Sprinco Plate+ Silver for three days.
Another cleaning method I've used when I'm in no hurry is to soak in Ed's Red. I made up a gallon of this stuff several years ago, and if you drop gun parts in and let it just sit for a couple of weeks, most of the fouling falls to the bottom as sludge.
Another cleaning method I've used when I'm in no hurry is to soak in Ed's Red. I made up a gallon of this stuff several years ago, and if you drop gun parts in and let it just sit for a couple of weeks, most of the fouling falls to the bottom as sludge.
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