Cleaning/Lubrication Question

9

9x18_Walther

New member
Hey all,

I'm really anal about keeping tools, guns, etc. in good condition.

I'm particularly worried about rusting and what to and not oil (for protection) on handguns.

I know which contact points and metal to metal pieces need to be cleaned and lubricated with a high grade oil (on Glocks, 1911s, etc.), but I'm starting to wonder if every metal portion of a gun should be coated with some degree of oil (e.g. just a thin sheen).

I can't find a good answer for this? If this is a stupid question I apologize.

For example, if I blast out crud on a newly acquired weapon with brake cleaner, gun scrubber, or another strong solvent, should non-contact metal parts inside the gun be coated with oil for rust prevention? I'm talking about parts such as the non-contact portions of the trigger bar on a Glock, the frame under the grip panels of a revolver, the firing pin and firing pin spring of a striker fired pistol (obviously not dripping in oil), etc.

No where in service manuals, etc. do I see manufactures placing emphasis on protecting the interior, non-contact portions of handguns.

Is rust mainly an exterior/contact with skin oils deal, or will humidity in the air rust the inside of a pistol?

Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
 
For the past fifty years, or more, I have used the my home brew of 50/50 mix of automotive motor oil and Three-in-One machine oil. After cleaning, I oil all exposed metal parts rather heavily, then wipe the gun down with a paper shop towel. Many of my guns have been stored in places where there is no climate control and for long periods of time, several years or more.

Just make sure there is nothing to attract moisture nor insects. I heard of a man once who oiled the bore of a rifle but left it near some foods that attracted ants. The ants crawled into the bore and were killed by the oil. Some acid left by the ants rusted the bore severly.

Bob Wright
 
On a Glock you need to use a small amount of lube on the points in the manual and that's it. If you get lube in the striker channel, you are toast. Overlubing guns that like to run dry and underlubing guns that like to run wet are both really bad ideas.
Overcleaning is also a really bad idea. Disassembliy and reassembly causes extra wear. Cleaning improperly can cause issues in the leade and crown. Military guns last less than half their expected lifetimes due to cleaning procedures.
 
Most modern handguns (particularly semi autos) are very resistant to rust...either because of the finish material or because of aluminum or stainless steel components. Keeping them clean and dry, except for the minute amounts of lubrication as called for in the owners manual, should be fine. Admittedly, though, for guns that are in storage and not getting used, I tend to put an additional light sheen on the visible metal surfaces and blot any excess with a clean dry cloth before putting them away. Then I try to just check on them periodically.
 
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+1 on jmhyer's comment but it depends on where the gun is stored. I do the same thing he does because I store my guns in a very dry area. If they were to be in a more humid place I would always store them with a light sheen of oil. I use the aerosol remoil for this or the Hoppe's wipes.
 
My guns live in a 2,300 square foot finished basement that has a dehumidifier or two in it (depends if I empty one of them). I clean my firearms and wipe them down with a lightly oiled cloth. Some have been here for 15 years. Whether they sit for weeks or years without being used, they always look and work exactly like they did when I last used them. I think the secret is moisture control and a clean place for them to sit (long guns in a wormy chestnut cabinet and handguns in a money/document safe).
 
I have torn a small (approximately 5") square of chamois from the auto parts store and moistened it with Breakfree CLP. After cleaning my firearms, I wipe them down with this chamois to leave a fine coating of oil on them. It seems to work well enough. I guess the "P" in "CLP" is doing its job.
 
It's probably a given that any parts that contain iron or steel will be prone to rust to some degree.
I've found the the best way to prevent it is to wrap them in silicone dampened cloths or silicone dampened soft cases, or both.
That's in addition to the usual lightly lubricated routine.
 
Glocks have nickel plated internals to prevent corrosion. You could oil them, but I'm unsure if it is necessary. Eventually the plating will peel exposing a copper plating- especially on the rails and this alarms people but it functions fine and is normal. Ignorance is bliss in that case. If the striker spring peels and then gets rusty you may want to replace.

Yes, exteriors should have a light coat of SOME oil. Then consider what it will be stored in. Cold damp environments encourage condensation and if it's in a case that gets wet or holds this moisture against the gun, no degree of oiling will protect for long. Guns in safes exposed to warm air do just fine.

That being said I've kept some pistols in hard cases with foam egg-crate that was included (usually discouraged by most folks as some solvents or oils can dissolve the foam) as well as gun rugs and as long as they were lightly oiled and kept in my closet they did fine.
 
Ah yes, the age old debate about protecting a guns finish. So far we have 10 responses and 10 different answers, and to one degree or another all 10 are correct.
Ready for number 11? After totally cleaning my revolvers, I give them a wipe down with a silicon treated cloth; then, with the exception of my ready guns, I store them in a silicon treated bag.

Finally, depending on the usage, every six or so months I treat my revolvers with two THIN coats of Johnson's and Johnson's paste wax. Rub it on with my finger, let haze up, then buff off with a soft cotton cloth.
 
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old bear said:
Ah yes, the age old debate about protecting a guns finish. So far we have 10 responses and 10 different answers, and to one degree or another all 10 are correct.
Ready for number 11? After totally cleaning my revolvers, I give them a wipe down with a silicon treat cloth; then, with the exception of my ready guns, I store them in a silicon treated bag.

Finally, depending on the usage, every six or so months I treat my revolvers with two THIN coats of Johnson's and Johnson's paste wax. Rub it on with my finger, let haze up, then buff off with a soft cotton cloth.
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you are correct, let me save you some time. frog lube and be done. if you aren't familiar check it out
 
Cleaning is of course individual preference but i have never read a post where a person complained their firearm stopped working because it was clean and oiled. I personally enjoy the cleaning sessions almost as much as firing. When it is five below itis time to clean everything again to stay inside.
 
where do you live? that will help to some degree. I live in the desert so not much is required to keep things rust free. In the high humidity areas a light coat of oil should keep the rust at bay. but you should still do regular cleanings. every gun I own gets cleaned twice a year minimum.
 
About a year ago I found these zerust protection bags and so far so good. I haven't been able to shoot this past year and check on the guns often and no rust so far. I have been a bit lazy lately in the gun care department, life has gotten in the way. :eek:

I have seen they also have these tubing things that go in the barrel to help prevent rust there. Haven't personally used it, but I do know the bags are great.
 
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