Cleaning integral rifle barrel

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Silenced22Shooter

Inactive
I recently bought a 10/22 in which the entire barrel is an integral unit. I'm curious as to how to clean the inside of it. It doesn't dissamble, obviously. The dealer said it didn't need to be cleaned. I don't buy that. I'm meticulous about cleaning my guns, and if there is lead fouling and powder residue building up in any part of a gun that I own, then I want to be able to get it out! I was thinking that I could remove the barrel, seal one end of it, place it in an upright position with the sealed end down and then fill it up with a solution and allow that to soak and free everything up, then drain it and blow it out with an air nozzel hooked to a strong compressor. I know that half mineral spirits and half transmission fluid is a popular suppressor cleaning solvent. Would this be ok to use for my application? Does this solution lubricate also? Is this the right way to clean it? What do you guys do to clean your integral units? Thanx.
 
Seems to me like you are on the right track. I prefer soaking in WD40 over the tranny and spirits method. It is cleaner and easer to work with. You can buy the stuff by the gallon at Lowes or the Depot. You might consider buying a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe and putting thread adapters on one end and a glue-on cap on the other end. Fill that up with your solvent, put the barrel in and twist the cap on. I use this method for my traditional muzzle cans and it works well. Blow out with air if you want or just let drain.
 
Will the WD-40 not damage the outer surface of the barrel if its' allowed to soak in it? It's done in black gun-kote. Also, what cleaning solvents are aluminum safe for the internals of a suppressor? Are Hopp's 9 and the other top solvents ok to expose to aluminum, or can they damage it?
 
I've not used Gunkote, but I wouldn't think that a solvent like WD40 would affect it at all. Hoppes is safe for aluminum, but it is not a common soaking solvent because of the cost factor. A gallon of WD40 is like $12 whereas a gallon of #9 would be closer to $100. A boresnake wouldn't do much for the suppressor baffles, maybe wipe a bit of the fouling off the baffle holes, but that would be minimal.
 
Thanks for the info VUPD. I was looking at the Hopps earlier and did think about how high the cost would be to fill the entire unit up with that everytime I wanted to clean it. Yea, the boresnake wouldn't get into the chambers and baffles and such that are in there. I plan to run a regular bronze brush down the barrel a few times to clean it, and will probably use a little Hopps on that, but I'm more worried about everything that could cake up on those baffles that I can't get to over time. Hey VUPD, I saw you on YouTube shooting your 9mm AR and your walther P22, and saw the cycling problems you had with the subsonics in the walter. I also have a walther and am awaiting the Form 4 to return on my Tac-65 for it. Have you found a round that cycles reliably and is subsonic in it? I know the CCI mini mags run great as far as gun function, but will they be subsonic in that set up?
 
Those rounds in the video were Aguilla Subsonic SE. They will not cycle the P22. I like the Remington Subsonic loads, they are quiet and reliable. I also like the RWS subsonics, they are the quietest loads that will cycle the action reliably, but they are quite expensive. Since shooting that video, I have detail cleaned and lubed the P22 and removed 3 coils from the recoil spring and it still wont cycle the Aguillas. I had to put in a brand new spring:mad:
 
I went and bought some rem subs and the RWS last week along with some minimags and fired all of them. The rem and RWS subsonics seemed to not blow the slide back with enough force to catch a new round sometimes. I'd fire and pull the trigger again and get a dry fire. Then open to slide to realize that a new round hadn't been chambered. It was also obvious that the action wasn't being worked with any umph due to the fact that spent brass was hitting me in the arm and coming at my face the entire time I shot the subs. I actually had one go down the neck of my shirt. They were coming out so slow that I could grab each one out of mid air if I wanted to. I loaded up the mags with the minimags, and although it was alot louder, the action was slapping back full force and the spent shells were leaving with so much velocity that I could barely see them flying out and have no idea how far they went. I'm hoping they are subsonic with the short barrel and can when I get it, because they really work that gun well. Guess I'll know in about 4wks.
 
one tip on the suppressed ruger 10/22, it will reduce your mechanical noise a little bit more if you get one of those polymer buffers, instead of letting the bolt slap the steel factory bolt stop.

this is an example of what im talking about..they are not expensive.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RUGER-10-22-SUP...ryZ31709QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

AWC also suggests emmersion/soaking in WD40 to clean baffles, and do it withen 24 hrs of firing each time so the crud is easier to remove.
 
I'd seen the thread on here on the synthetic bolt stop from buffer technologies and have one sitting beside me right now.;) I should be picking my rifle up today (had to have it gun-kote after papers cleared, can't stand silver finishes!) and I'll be installing that first thing.
 
Good deal :) my AAC phoenix cleans the same way your 10/22 does or will.

and so does my Optima..except I can take the baffles out for a soak and toothbrush.


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im a couple of months away from a suppressed 10/22 myself(but get to play with my neibors Phoenix 10/22 when I go over there) but I allready have the buffer waiting...I got shown the difference by my neibor.
 
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