Cleaning dies in SS pin tumbler

I *Usually* clean dies with Kano Kroil or Barricade before I put them up.
Kroil is almost supernatural the places it gets, it will creep into threads of dies, it will creep into threads of decapping rods.

Casey Barricade is about the best rust preventive around for tool steel, what 99% of dies are made of.

Only two things I've found that will get the 'Gunk' out of REALLY dirty dies, for coated bullet gunk, MEK.
For the general lube gunk that hardened, or cases that weren't cleaned correctly, try starting fluid, but do it outside!

MEK & starting fluid will both strip off any rust protection, so I use Barricade immediately.

Don't think I want tool steel dies rattling around with steel pins and water, or rattling around with polishing media that has who knows what in it.
Sounds like a good way to compound problems with lube gunk and plugging up vent holes and such.
 
Thanks for the reply. Not really looking for a preventative... I've already missed that boat.

Looking for hands off way to remove some rust from the inside and outside of a few die sets. Then, once they are clean I'll squirt them with barricade before storing.

I think the ss pin method may work, but I bet I'd need to do one die at a time so they don't peen against each other.
 
I clean my dies in my Sonic Cleaner. It's works great.

I got a large 9 quart unit off Amazon for $110 and I use Lyman solutions for brass and parts cleaning. The parts cleaning solution will clean your dies better than new and is great for cleaning gun barrels and slides and magazines and.....
 
If you want to remove rust and not damage the dies, use electrolysis. Do a U-Tube search for rust removal and electrolysis. Works well.
 
That went through my head, but didn't want to get started on something from left field.

I'm not sure steel pins & threads will get along.

Arm & Hammer makes a 'Washing Soda',
For best results, use DISTILLED water.
A low amp battery charger, NOT the digital kind,
Plastic pan,
Electrode of some kind, steel will work...

Consult 'You Tube' for videos, and consult an electronics forum for how it works.
It's a pain in the butt, slow, but it works good.

I've had REALLY good results with electrolysis on vintage parts no replacements were available.
It's OK for bare metal, but it WILL screw up plating on metal.
 
Mix up some citric acid with water and soak the dies for awhile.
Sulfuric, phosphoric, hydrocloric acids will remove all rust, just don't make it too strong, about 1 tablespoon to a pint with a little dish soap keep an eye on it.

Citric acid I use 2 tablespoons to a pint of hot water, with a little dish soap, like cleaning cases, only stronger.

Degrease the dies before you soak 'em. Most of the time an acid solution soak will leave the dies looking almost new, if the surface isn't pitted.

Electrolysis works very well too. with either method, don't go away for the weekend, check every two hrs or so.
 
Just FYI, I put one die in my ss pin tumbler today and let er rip for 30 minutes. I used the same dawn/lemishine solution that I use to clean brass.

I wish I would have got before and after pics, but rest assured, it worked very well. No damage at all to the threads.

I got tired of doing one die at a time, so I threw in a cheap set of Lee 380 acp dies. I figured if they got peened out I wouldn't be out a lot of cash. This also worked extremely well with no ill effects.

I can't speak for longer run times, but no damage occurred at 30 minutes and the dies were very clean and polished... just like new.
 
I don't think the stainless pins are particularly hard, but critical die surfaces like resizing surfaces are, so I wouldn't expect obvious damage. Carbide dies may be an issue with any acid or alkaline solution because the nickel matrix gets into a galvanic reaction with the steel. Also, avoid electrolytic cleaning of carbide dies. I found that out the hard way. It eats the nickel out from between the carbide particles and spoils the carbide surface finish.
 
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