Cleaning carbon from inside revolver cylinder chambers.

FoghornLeghorn

New member
I bought a used Colt Python that, apparently, had been used for firing 38 specials. There's enough carbon built up in the chambers that it's difficult to eject spent 357 magnum cases.

I just saw a utube vid of a guy who chucks a 45 cal bristle brush into a drill and runs it for 4 or 5 minutes per chamber. I've got a 40 cal bristle brush. Or I could use a 45. Too harsh? Common practice?

Opinions?
 
See this posting for full info on this.........

https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607329

Whatever you choose, running a brush for FIVE MINUTES per chamber is stupid and possibly harmful, especially in an expensive Python.
In the linked post I recommend using the right tool. In this case, Brownell's bronze chamber brushes.

If you look for advice on Youtube be VERY careful what you trust.
I've seen some horror story advice on Youtube.
One video shows disassembly of the Python in which the poster advised using PLIERS to remove the barrel !!!!!

Just remember, anyone no matter how stupid or ill-informed or even malicious can post videos.
Best to get your advice on known-good forums like this one.
 
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Start with a gun cleaner that dissolves carbon. Some of the traditional oil-based cleaners aren't so good at that job. I like Hoppes #9 and Ballistol or Breakfree CLP, but for carbon, they're not ideal. Instead try a water-based type cleaner like MPro 7 or Break Through. They will penetrate the carbon soaking into it and lift it off.

The thing about oily cleaners like #9, Ballistol, Breakfree is they don't need to be cleaned off and dried up and you don't have to wipe the steel with oil afterwards or re-lubricate the action. With the water-based cleaners you will strip the oil off the steel and if there is any lubricant where it is applied it will form an emulsion. They can also damage the finish on wood. That's why people usually avoid them for the worry-free cleaners. But the water-based cleaners are much better at removing carbon. Just remove your cylinder from the revolver and set the revolver aside. Put the cleaner in the chambers with a wet patch and don't soak the ejector rod unless you want to disassemble and re-lubricate it all.

I use a chamber brush as well as a bore brush from Pro-Shot. The Pro-Shot brushes have a brass core and bronze bristles neither of which will scratch steel. I don't use a power tool, but just an all-brass Dewey Rod. This combination works good as long as you're not using a copper solvent like ammonia. For that you'll want aluminum-core nylon brushes, but since your issue is supposed to be carbon, there you go.
 
Myself...
Hoppes #9 on a patch to soak the cylinder and barrel.
Let sit overnight.
In morning bronze brush, then more wet patches. Let sit overnight again.
Next day dry patches till clean & inspect.
Repeat as needed.
 
Give it time to soak in

On a problem like this, I use swab Ballistol and let it soak for at least, a couple of days or so. I have actually seen carbon flake off, in pieces as apposed to washing off the surface. The key point is to let it soak in for a time ….. :rolleyes:

Be Safe !!!
 
Interesting subject.
What about a excessively flaring a 357 case and adding screw w/ couple of nuts as a handle and use as a scraper? With solvent of course.
 
Some people do use flared cases and report good results.

I just find that a brush will remove ALL of the fouling and not just scrape off most of it.
 
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