cleaning black powders.

G

gytrbyte

New member
Ive recently got into shooting black powder revolvers. i bought a 1851 navy by Pietta. loved it so much i bought a Uberti 1847 walker. i plan on getting some 1860 army uberti's in 44cal. but my quistion is, dose anyone have a trick to cleaning the cylinders. ive been using number 13bore cleaner. Totally soak the cylender, then use Q tips to get in deep.i was curious to any new ideas and pointers. thank you.
 
Hot water with Dawn dish washing soap and a bore mop. Hold the cylinder under water and the mop will draw water through the nipples or the nipple holes if you removed them. If you do remove them put some anti seize on the threads before you put them back in.
 
I'm with Hal on this, then dry thoroughly with a $10.00 Wally-world hair dryer & oil immediately. Here's my 1858 & my Hawken Carbine, after 5 years of cleaning this way, not a spot of rust & shoots like new. One thing you'll discover as you get into the world of B/P is that it's essentially a very simple process in every way.

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A vastly more experienced B/P shooter uses mops instead of patches then washes them out for re-use.
 
Remove wood grip panels, cylinder and other easily removable parts. Put everything in a pan of soapy water. Clean chambers and bore with patches. Rinse everything with hot water and dry. I put everything in oven set at 200 degrees and leave the door propped open a couple inches. When dry lube, put away. Doesn't take long.
 
My favorate cleaning solution is HOT water with Murphy's Oil Soap. Soak everything and clean as previously described. After drying, coat everything, inside and out, with Balistol. Best to run a dry patch through the bore and cylinder bores prior to loading. Never a hint of rust. I use real Goex black powder. Don't know how this works with BP substitutes but would think it would be fine.
 
The hot soapy water/hot clean water/wipe dry/heat with hairdryer works fine for Pyrodex and Jim Shockey's gold as well.

I don't know about others as I haven't used them.
 
Hot soapy water and I used compressed air to blow away the water when finished. This is especially useful when I don't do a complete disassembly. Many times I will simply remove the grips and then dunk the frame and swish it around in hot soapy water and blast the internals with hot water from the faucet.

Then I will blast it dry with compressed air and spray in Rem Oil. I go over the whole gun with Ballistol.

Steve
 
I use water then some rubbing alcohol down the bore and cylinders to displace the water. Then the oven @ 175f till dry.
 
I use pyrodex in my .36 C&B open top, and I clean the frame normally but the barrel and cylinder get a quick clean with hot soapy water and a rinse, then into an old pot of boiling water with some diswashing liquid in it.

My logic is that the boiling water evaporates quickly when the parts are removed, reducing rust chances (use tongs to remove, lol). I let the water evaporate, then clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush, then a little hoppe's. I clean out the cylinders carefully to get any WD-40 and hoppe's out. It's actually fast
 
At the range, cheap window washing fluid works great, many Rev War reenactors use a 3 in 1 solution-rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, Murphy's Oil Soap. Straight peroxide provides a quick and easy cleaning for the bore but is hard on the metal.
 
I find that

Hot soapy water (dish detergent) or other water based methods suggested by others, works about equally for Goex, Pyrodex, or Triple 7.
 
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