cleaning a smoothbore barrel

P

Pezo

New member
What do you use to clean a 12 gauge SMOOTHBORE barrel? I cant see a need myself to use a copper wire brush since their is no rifling, right? or wrong? Can lead accumulate that badly in a smoothbore?
 
Normally I don't use a brush unless I have lead buildup. I usually patch it out with Hoppes and then clean patches to get Hoppes residue and then use Breakfree, Rem-Oil or some type of gun oil. hpg
 
Plastic from the wads accumulates more than lead. I us e a 'tornado' brush for that . There are also solvents made for the job if it's a big problems.
 
Shotgun barrels DO need, or at least do better with brushing to remove build up of plastic and leading near the muzzle.

One overlooked area is the chamber. People are often surprised to see their chamber rusting, but the bore nice and shiny.

Plastic shot shells burn any lube out of the chamber, and deposit plastic in it.
Moisture can infiltrate under the fouling and rust it.

For this reason many shotgunners not only brush the bore, they buy special chamber cleaning tools and brushes to insure getting all fouling out.

Bottom line: Brushing the bore and chamber can't hurt, and may prevent deterioration of an expensive gun.
 
hpg said,
I usually patch it out with Hoppes and then clean patches to get Hoppes residue and then use Breakfree, Rem-Oil or some type of gun oil. hpg
Click to expand...

When you put Rem-oil, do you put it all over the inside of the barrel then wipe it off? sorry to hijack the tread.
 
I'm always open to learning, and the Otis site has been helpful.

Otis how-tos
Open the action as if you are going to insert a shell. Push the
flexible cleaning rod, obstruction remover first, down the barrel
from breech to muzzle. The obstruction remover on the end of
the rod will dislodge any mud or snow from the barrel.

Apply solvent to the first patch down the barrel. This will
lubricate the bore and prevent sand or dirt from scratching the
muzzle end of the barrel. Work the swab in the receiver to
clean the slides. Pull the rod and swab out through the muzzle
in the direction of the shot. The swab gives 360 degree
coverage which allows you to clean the entire surface of the
chamber, forcing cone, barrel and choke with one stiff pull. If
the swab pulls hard, just attach the “T” handle.

The swab has six new cleaning surfaces. Take advantage of
this feature. It will prolong the life of your firearm.. When the
swab is pulled down the barrel the first time it may pick up dirt
or abrasive particles. Never run this swab a second time. The
abrasive material will scratch the forcing cone and bore at the
breech end. This causes lead and plastic buildup. Remove the
swab and flip it over. Use the clean side of the swab.

After the first swab, you can use the brush. Please note that
the brush is oversized to scrub the chamber and forcing cone.
Never use a bore brush down the barrel of any gun before using
a patch. This will damage the firearm. The dirt or sand in the
muzzle end will get into the bristles of the brush. When the
brush is presented at the forcing cone, the dirt will be deposited
in the chamber. This is the exact equivalent of cleaning in the
wrong direction (from muzzle to breech).

It is always a good practice to wipe down all of the components
when you put them back into the dust proof case.
Click to expand...
 
If all you have is plastic fouling from wads a brush is a LOT more work than you need to do. Get a can of CHLORINATED brake cleaner from the auto parts store, it will hose out the plastic like magic. Do be sure to use it outdoors, and do not get it on any painted surfaces or stocks. Then oil with a patch to prevent rust.

If you shoot slugs the barrel can lead and it can do it badly. A brush on a cordless drill with good solvent makes short work of leading.

Work smart, not hard.
 
For this reason many shotgunners not only brush the bore, they buy special chamber cleaning tools and brushes to insure getting all fouling out.
Click to expand...
any links to these tools? Is their a good way to clean the bore and barrel without having to take the barrel off?
 
You can find the shotgun chamber brushes at many gun stores, and from a good many online stores.

Here's what Brownell's offer, take your pick:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1288&title=SHOTGUN+CHAMBER+BRUSH

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9803&title=CHAMBER+CLEANING+KITS

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5624&title=BRASS+CHAMBER+ROD

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1248&title="HANDLED"+CHAMBER+BRUSHES

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=10072&title="RODGE-F"+CHAMBER+BRUSH

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...704&title=12+GA.+SHOTGUN+CHAMBER+BRUSH/HANDLE

One huge advantage of buying from Brownell's: On request, they'll send you a free copy of their catalog.
It's the BEST "gun stuff" catalog in the world, and where pro gunsmith's do their buying.

As for cleaning the barrel without taking it off, you're better taking it off, but you can clean it while it's on the gun.
The bore is simply cleaned from the muzzle, and there are chamber cleaning brush sets designed to work through the ejection port.
 
On a 590 you have to remove the magazine tube to get the barrel off. It is threaded into the reciever. You can get it out without damaging it by using a strap wrench.
 
Plastic from the wads accumulates more than lead. I us e a 'tornado' brush for that . There are also solvents made for the job if it's a big problems.
Click to expand...

I sometimes get this stringy wad plastic in my gun. I used to thing it came from new AA loads. Then I thought it came from when my gun got really hot as when I shot doubles.

I don't think of it as a problem but does anyone know why I get sometimes and not others?
 
"On a 590 you have to remove the magazine tube to get the barrel off. It is threaded into the reciever"

HUH!!!!

The Mossberg barrels are NOT "threaded in". You remove the Mossberg barrel by unscrewing the magazine cap and pulling the barrel forward and off.

Here's a link to a online Mossberg 500 and 590 series Owner's manual:
http://63.149.92.163/manuals/52458_500_835_590.pdf
 
The 500 comes apart differently than the 590. And youre right on the 500. The end cap on the mag tube removes the barrel but not the 590. Maby you misunderstood me. THE MAGAZINE TUBE on the 590 threads into the reciever not the barrel into the reciever. I never stated that the "barrel threads into the reciever". "HUH!!!"
 
I wrap a patch around a brush, apply whatever I'm cleaning with, and push it through.

Hoppe's Bench Rest 9 Copper Solvent makes short work of plastic fouling. Nasty stuff, but it cuts through almost anything.

JT
 
Shotgun cleaning

Get a long 45 jag for your cleaning rod. Wrap it in 000 steel wool and form a plug. When you get done shooting run the "PLUG" followed by a light oiling. Keep the wool on the jag and reuse and reuse until it gets really funky then make your self a new plug. An old smith showed me this method and saved me a pile of money not buying all of that other stuff. :D Now for the nay say'ers do you really think this is a bad idea and then go out and buy a tornado brush made of stainless steel?
 
After I shoot, I always give the chambers a quick shot of spray oil.

Not a lot, just a light, short "burst" which prevents the chamber rust and I don't clean the bbl much. The chambers will rust if you don't spray the oil or clean them often...trust me on that! ;)
 
I tie a rag covered in rem oil to a string, run it thru a few times, run a dry rag thru, then oil it up with a clean rag.
 
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