Cleaning a nickle 357 mag

C

claypigeon

New member
Hi,

I just bought my first nickle gun (model 27-2 S&W). I have read that you dont clean it with Hoppes #9 cause it would damage the finish.
My question is what do you use to clean the bore of lead and powder fouling and what about the cylinder face?
Sorry my question is so elementary,but it is really a nice piece and I dont want to ruin it!


:rolleyes:
Thanks in advance for all the help!
 
Claypigeon, I have the same gun (1977 manufacture) with 6" barrel, patridge front sight, adjustable rear, target trigger & hammer. None of my K or L frames approach its fit, finish, accuracy, and double-action smoothness. Mmmm, that double-action is so unbelievably smooth!

I use Breakfree CLP or EEZOX on the bore and cylinders for initial cleaning. For the cylinder face and other hard to clean areas, I use Simichrome Polish (available @ Walmarts or Kmarts) or Mother's Mag Polish (auto stores) in small amounts on a nylon brush. The S&W electroless nickel process is top notch and these polishes leave my twenty five year-old M27 looking new.
 
Carefull with the Mother's Mag polish. It is abrasive. Use to demonstrate it by using a tiny dab and polishing the paint off of a Coors can. Make the can look like chrome quickly.

Sam
 
Pigeon, when they say that bore solvent can damage the nickel finish, they mean don't let it soak on the nickel for a long period of time. Clean the bore and cylinder just as you would any other gun, just don't leave any solvent in contact with the finish for longer than necesary. Where people were getting in trouble was letting some of the new copper solvents stay in contact overnignt, or even days.

I'm not sure about the effects, but I have cleaned the cylinder face with a Lead Removal cloth. These work well on hard chrome and stainless, and I saw no ill effects the few times I used on on nickel. I'm not sure about long term.
Because nickel is rather delicate compared to the newer plated finishes, I'd pretty much let the cylinder face alone except for a light brushing.
 
I have not studied up on the new type nickel plating, but the old kind would not stick to steel unless there was a plating of copper put on first. An ammonia based cleaner will not affect nickel itself (except over a long period of time), but if the cleaner can get to the copper (as at the front of the cylinder or muzzle) it will eat the copper and leave the nickel unsupported and peeling. (Remember, it is designed to remove copper fouling from the bore.)

Pending further info, I cannot recommend any ammonia type cleaner (Hoppes #9 is only one - look on the can or bottle) for cleaning nickel plated guns.

Jim
 
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