Cleaning a Browning Citori O/U

J

JasonWilliam

Moderator
Hey guys. I recently acquired a very well cared for Citori (Sporting Hunter). For the 9 years he had it, the former owner kept this thing in amazingly good shape and with the exception of the worn away gold from the trigger, the gun looks new inside and out. I'd like to keep it that way.

I've tried searching and reading and learning, and I'd like to run by you what I think I know about cleaning, after a day of shooting (what I would call regular maintenance). Please correct me at any point and/or suggest alternatives. I've got no ego to bruise...

1) Cleaning the barrels
1a) Soak a patch in Hoppes #9
1b) use a bore snake to run it thru the barrel once, starting from the breech and running thru the muzzle.
1c) let it sit for a minute or two
1d) use a brass brush and run it thru the barrel once or twice, starting from the breech and running thru the muzzle.
1e) soak a new patch in Hoppes #9
1f) use a bore snake to run it thru the barrel once, starting from the breech and running thru the muzzle.
1g) use a bore snake to run clean patches thru the barrels (breech to muzzle) until the patch comes out dry and clean.

2) Cleaning the chokes
2a) remove from barrels after step one is complete
2b) use a patch and Hoppes #9 to clean the choke completely, including its threads.
2c) also make sure the threads in the barrel are clean using #9

3) Cleaning the action
3a) Use Hoppe's #9 and clean patch to wipe down the exposed metal surfaces, and remove any old grease.
3b) Use Brake Free and a clean patch to wipe down the exposed metal surfaces, coating them lightly.
3c) use grease (what kind??) and apply a small mount to the hinge pin recess, the hinge pin, both sides of the locking lug, and the forearm braket.

4) Protecting the metal and reassembly
4a) wet a patch with Brake Free and wipe down the barrels until clean and lightly coated
4b) take that patch wet with Brake Free and run it thru the barrels to lightly coat them
4c) use Brake Free and a patch and wipe down the choke so that its clean and has a light coat over its outside surface, including the threads.
4d) use Brake Free and a patch and wipe down the barrel threads so they have a light coating.
4e) reinstall the chokes in the barrels
4f) reassemble the forearm, barrels and action now (if storing on the wall or safe)

Sounds like a lot of work, but I think it wont take more than 20 minutes once I get the hang of it. And maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think I'll mind the time anyway; I've always taken care of my tools and I've found they usually take care of me.

Any suggestions/alterations? I've heard about a "Tico tool" too. Any thoughts on incorporating that?

Thanks for the time guys.
 
As long as you don't run the bore snake back through and you push it all the way through the barrel and out the muzzle it sounds good. Maybe too good i usually do something like that once every 100/250 rounds. Like a 200 round Check-Up.:D
 
Thanks Ryn. Yup, the snake goes one direction, from what I understand; in thru the breech side and out thru the muzzle side.

As for frequency, I'll typically run 200 or more shells on any given day. So I think cleaning after every 'day' is a good idea, given that.

Anyone have any thoughts on the Tico deal? My method here seems like I'll be going thru a ton of patches (which isn't a bad thing, just sayin :o)
 
While I know Zippy loves the Tico tool, I feel it is in the same league as the bore snake - good for a light cleaning or finishing at the end of a good cleaning. Personally, I would spray the barrels with a good solvent, let them sit, and then use a good bronze bore brush in a battery drill to clean the bores, followed with the same set up with a patch for the second, and if necessary, a third pass. Once clean THEN the Tico tool can do the final polishing.....

Your main focus needs to be on the chokes and the threads, followed by the hinge pin and bearing surfaces to prevent galling, then the ejectors/extractors. Those areas, if even a little dirty can spell more problems than just dirty barrels......
 
As has been mentioned in past postings, dedicate a jar of solvent for soaking the plastic off of your choke tubes. I prefer Shooters Choice. Hoppes #9 will do, but It might take longer.

Anyone who's shot NSSA skeet with an old school tubed gun (without a carrier barrel) knows the importance of being able to quickly swab out the 12-ga barrels so the tubes can be inserted properly. Typically you have plenty of time between events for a leisurely gauge change. However, at the end of the day when it's shoot-off time, you may have only a few brief minutes for gauge changes. That's when the Tico Tool is a real blessing. The secret is not letting the 12-ga barrels accumulate a lot of grime in the first place.
 
Best thing ever

I am with Z13 on the fuzzy sticks. I have a load of 1 3/16 ounce of fours I shoot infront of Winchester 571 powder. The powder is about the dirtiest thing that you can shoot. Run the Tico Tool one time down the barrel give it a half turn, pull out and repeat one more time. Barrels look like they are new.
 
Thanks for the info guys.

oneonce, when you say a "battery drill" do you mean any cordless drill? Something that will spin a bit, at a relatively high rate of speed (when compared to an eletric screwdriver)?

Roger that on the bearing surfaces and ejectors. What tools/cleaners do you suggest for getting in those tight areas and ensuring they're free of debris? Brake Free and a toothbrush?

zip, which Shooters Choice product specifically? Their "Shotgun and Choke Tube Cleaner", or their "MC #7 Bore Cleaner and Conditioner" maybe?
 
I've got a jar of choke deep MC #7 that I've used for some time. I haven't tried their spray Shotgun and Choke Tube Cleaner. Perhaps another member has experience with the spray.
 
By battery drill, you are correct - your basic cordless drill as opposed to an electric high speed one, or those anemic cordless screwdrivers.

To get in tiny places, a toothbrush works pretty decent, but I also have a set of older dental picks - check with your dentist, he might have a set he can no longer use for patients that works great for cleaning - just be gentle since they are stainless. The alternative are some of the newer nylon "dental" tools made for guns and other items; either way, they will let you get to the grime in all those nooks and crannies
 
I use the Shooters choice spray shotgun and choke tube cleaner - inside the barrels and the receiver.

But a couple of notes:

I prefer solid cleaning rods to bore snakes. I will use a bore snake for a quick clean in the field / but on my bench, I use solid cleaning rods with Tornado brushes / wooly pads on them.

I remove barrels from receiver first / and put the forend on the barrels ( so you have some leverage ) and something to hand onto. Note to self: it makes it less likely you'll drop a barrel on the concrete floor ...and cry yourself to sleep ... So I clean the barrels when they're off the receiver. Spray cleaner - let sit for about 30 sec / then scrub. Clean barrel ports if they need it ( I use cotton pipe cleaners on them ).

Using a Q tip - clean under and around the ejectors / I use a "Chamber brush" on chambers too. Chamber brush is bigger than a bore brush - so it does a better job on chambers .

Then remove chokes - clean threads - lube with Break Free / and threads inside - and put chokes back in ( finger tight ) - you don't need a wrench.

Spary a patch with cleaner - clean inside of receiver ( Q tips, whatever you need ). Before I reassemble the gun / I put Rig Grease on the receiver to barrel connection and on barrel lug to forend.

I store my guns assembled in my safe / so I put it back together. I wipe down the outside with a gun cloth ( and sometimes - don't yell at me guys - but I spray a little WD-40 on the outside of the gun /wood, barrels etc and wipe it down with a soft towel )...

Since this is a new gun / I would take off the recoil pad - and remove the stock ( allen wrench or a long screw driver depending on your gun). If its never been off - the stock bolt is locktited in - so be patient / use a little leverage to break it free - but don't get nuts ...

Inspect inside receiver (springs, firing pins, etc ) - spray a little light oil or a little solvent on a Q tip - clean it up, if it needs it. Make sure firing pins are not pitted. Then put it back together.

If I ever shoot a wooden stock gun in the rain / I remove the stock dry it out, clean, lube and reassemble. No matter what - I do this about twice a year on all my shotguns. Makes a great winter rainy day project in the shop - do 4 or 5 guns at a time ...

M Pro 7 is a pretty good solvent too - and it doesn't stink.
 
IMHO, the prime advantage of the bore snake is its ease of stowage in your field kit. I'm with BigJimP with his preference for a solid rod for bench work. The fuzzy sticks work fine to get bores reasonably clean end lubricated. Yet, I do like a really wet wash with a conventional rod-end swab from time to time.

Like many, BigJimP likes the Tornado brushes. They are stainless steel and seem to last forever. Their loop design doesn't flattened out as with cut wire brushes. I've got one that's well over 20 years old. However, I've seen manufacturer's cleaning instructions that caution against using tornado type brushes. I've also seen recommendations against using any metallic brushes. You might want to peruse your factory cleaning instructions, especially if your gun is under warranty.
 
Cleaning a Browning Citori O/U
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Mine is a 1975 model (fixed chokes). I just take it apart, scrub it well with solvent and a brush, run a couple patches down the bore (I never use a BoreSnake), wipe the exterior with a clean rag, wipe it with a gun cloth, and store it. Every now and then (maybe every other year), I take the buttstock off and scrub out the locks. A drop of lube on the hinge pin, a drop of BreakFree on the safety and other sliding parts, and then it goes back together, ready for next time.
 
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