Clean Up for BP & Other Substitutes

W

Whisk

New member
Since I have just started the sport of BP Shooting, I have been wondering how I can reduce my cleaning time at the range. I've been using Triple Seven so the clean up is less than it would be with real BP (which I intend to graviatate toward). In any case, it is still a mess and I try and do it at the range as I invariably get sidetracked coming back from the range by my wife (damn cell phones) and it just works better for me to clean everything at the range.

I had a 45 caliber bore snake for my other guns but wanted one for my 50 cal rifle. I couldn't find one but bought a 28 gauge snake and it works OK (I think 28 gauge is about 55 cal).

One of my primary questions is: "If you used a BP substitute like Triple SEven, is it necessary to use soap and hot water" :confused:

It would sure be a lot more convenient if I could use something like the Breakfree Powder Solvent in a pressurized can and the Breakfree libricant as well.

Would appreciate any suggestions........
 
The best way I know of to clean-up after "non-smokeless" powder is hot, soapy water. It's been working just fine for me, whether I use real BP or subs. It's the cheapest, simplest, most effective method I know of.
 
Sundance44s

I do my cleaning at the range too ..the mistery mix i use is ..Windex .. if ya doubt it works try it and look at your bore with a bore light.
 
Thats what I was looking for!

Thx. I'll try the Windex!

I always said: "I'll piss on a spark plug if it'll fire......"

Falls under the general heading of: "If it works, don't knock it!" :D
 
I've tried them all - Windex, Moosemilk,...you name it. Didn't notice any of them doing a better job than plain 'ol soap 'n water.

If you decide to try Windex, be sure you use the Vinegar-flavored version. Don't use the regular Windex with amonia or you risk damage to the finish of wood and metal.;)
 
I'll back up the scaldin' hot soapy water and same with rinse water...nothin' get um cleaner and disapates moisture when wiping dry than heat.
So I second the good old soapy water.
 
I use rubbing alcohol. It cuts fouling but contains no water which can cause rusting if not properly dried. The alcohol evaporates without leaving rust behind. I got started using it before a hunt to ensure I had a clean, dry flash channel and chamber. Then I started using it to rough clean at the range and found that I had little to finish cleaning at home with the traditional pumping of hot soapy water. Now I clean entirely with it and lubricate afterward with straight olive oil.

There are lots of ways to get to the same place. Anything which removes the salt rich fouling and anything which inhibits rust afterward will work just fine. I don't know of any real short cuts, though.

Steve
 
I'm also new to BP shooting and I noticed that once the grips and trigger guard of my Remington are removed there are two large openings in the frame to first: liberally jet spray Gun Scrubber while using small toothbrush/Q-tips where able and nesessary and holding gun so dirty runoff exits frame and secondly, since Gun Scrubber will remove all traces of oil/lube from within the frame, spray in some Brakefree while, again, making sure all inside parts and surfaces are coated with it. Although I'll be the first to admit that I have alot to learn about blackpowder and I certainly realize that it can be much dirtier and hygroscopic than smokeless powder I feel the above described products and procedure should keep my revolver clean and, more inportantly, free of corrosion. The reason for my belief is that when one realizes that the Remington design is modular much like the Ruger revolvers, no matter whether one completely disassembles the gun and washes it with soap and water or follow the above procedure there are still only two ways to get inside the frame. Although complete dissasembly may be slightly more thorough it comes at the expense of much more complexity and time.
 
Hot soapy water (simple green works well) and then LOTS of WD40 to get the water out. I know, must will disagree with the WD 40 but on the rather crude BP action it works fine and I have been doing it without built up. Then, coat of break free to protect. It is not enought ot do the bore, the smoke will enter the action so make sure you clean it as well.
 
I liked Steve's (I think it was) idea about the olive oil as I have an Italian gun ROTFLMAO!

I'll be careful with the Windex!

Been using WalMart bought Gunscrubber and BreakFree but may just try some of the other remedies (like alcohol).

Between the peanut butter (another thread) and olive oil, this black powder shooting tastes better all the time :)
 
I've wondered about WD-40 as I always have plenty around.

It is graphite based and can cause biuld up.

I threw the hammer in college and used it on (in) the swivel. It would cake up after awhile.

Hard to have hot water at my range so I may use the alcohol or gun scrubber anyway...
 
I've wondered about WD-40 as I always have plenty around.

It is graphite based and can cause biuld up.

I threw the hammer in college and used it on (in) the swivel. It would cake up after awhile.

Hard to have hot water at my range so I may use the alcohol or gun scrubber anyway...
 
Don't think HOppe's No. 9 works that well on BP tho.............

So far I like the alcohal or windex (if ya get it off blued parts, etc. quick) for not hot water cleaning at range.

If hot water cleaning at range (use a little tine cup and single burner camp stove) simple green or other dishwashing soap is fine. Hard to beat the teakettle and hot water with anything (even at range).......
 
The use of ANY petroleum products i.e. WD40, Hoppes runs the risk of contaiminating a powder charge if any residue is left. I use some white milky stuff...can't remeber what its called. Works real well.

MMC makes a synthetic Black Powder cleaner and lube that will NOTcontaminate powder and makes cleaning easier everytime you use it. We sell it on our website. Good stuff.
 
About the Hoppe's residue contaminating the powder, since it's a patch lube, it's formulated to come into contact with the powder to some degree, and I've never heard anyone complain about ignition issues. I basically use Hoppe's for cleaning after shooting and I don't advocate an over saturation of it for swabbing, but even alcohol has water in it while Hoppe's may have a hint of kerosene (It's better to use the 91% and not the 70% alcohol). Many products people use contain water which is probably way more of a contamination risk than Hoppe's, of which I think the risk is virtually nonexistant, especially if used sparingly for swabbing just like any other product.

http://www.gunaccessories.com/Hoppes/SolventsLubricating.asp
 
Moose's Milk?
Also water soluable machinist's oil and water make a good patch lube I amd told... I swear by Moose's Milk in patched long guns an lube pills in all my Revs.
 
I always thought Moosemilk was a drink :confused:

But then, since getting on this blog I've heard about peanut butter, olive oil, and other references to food........

Guess if you shoot BP you'll never go hungry (or thirsty.....) :cool:
 
newbie here, just double checking,

it looks like nobody has posted here since 06 so i hope a get a reply. when at the range, if the bp rifle become's fouled up, but i want to shoot more, what do i use to clean it. and i have been told that crisco is a good lubd for shooting, is that true?

kenneth
 
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