Clamp on Muzzle Brakes ?

I've read about them here and some folks like them. The one problem that sticks out in my mind is to check the bore alignment. If the break is misaligned then bad things happen. I have no experience with the clamp on muzzle breaks so I'm just repeating what I've read.
 
I have a Savage 12fv with the varmint contour barrel. Done a lot of reading on the Witt clamp on and will be purchasing one after my Christmas shopping is complete.

95% seem to happy with them and report significant recoil reduction. The 5% complaints seem to be issues with measuring (poor fit )or failure to properly tighten.
 
I have a custom brake on my 308, helped my friend install a Wittmachine brake on his 308, works just as good as mine for a third of the price. The next brake for me will be from WM. I called them about torque setting on the screws. Great Company to deal with. It won't blow off the muzzel. If your looking to tame recoil or muzzle jump you will be happy with the brake Hope I helped.
 
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rcmark said:
Anyone tried any of these?
http://wittmachine.co/index.php?main...index&cPath=69


I want to reduce the barrel rise / recoil on mt Axis!
Click to expand...

I have a Witt on my .300 win mag , very happy with the brake. Seriously lessens the shoulder pounding recoil to reasonable. Yes ,clamp on brakes need to be loctited and torqued perfect so as to not fly off. Never had a problem with mine as long as you keep in torqued. Scroll down this link to my post.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569424
 
No specific experience with the Witt, but they are a top shelf co.

I have a similar design from Kahntrol that's been on my 7-08 for years, never an issue- never even had to re-torque the set screws. Precision machined to the taper of the barrel, they're not going to end up downrange.

Different animal, but ever tried to break a drill chuck loose from the tapered shaft? If the mating of the tapers is correct, there's a lot of holding power there.

BUT, here's the thing...

They don't say how much overbored they make the opening. Typically, this is from twenty to thirty thou over bullet diameter. With a clamp on, the brake is installed roughly concentric to the barrel, not the bore as it should be.

If the bore is not concentric to the barrel (and they never are, or threading a barrel muzzle would be much simpler), you may need greater clearance to avoid a bullet strike. My guess is, Witt uses a much more generous standard when reaming them to bullet caliber size.
 
I have a kahntrol on my 308. I prefer the Witt. The Witt is custom machined to your specific barrel. The kahntrol is mass produced to handle a certain range of barrel od's. Mine fit a bit too loose and flew off twice until I learned the necessary extra torque needed to keep an adequate clamp force. The kantrol is also made of aluminum which after like 1000 rounds starts to get errosion from carbon . The Witt is made of stainless steel which seems to better resist carbon errosion.
 
I had a pinned brake come off after being installed for two years, made it about 70 yards down range.... not sure how, but makes me wary of a clamped brake.
 
OK I got one!

Ken Witt Muzzle Brake https://wittmachine.co/

Torqued to 18 in/lb

Does it work?
Yes, reduces the muzzle rise a LOT.
I can now shoot at 50x without losing the sight picture.

Is is loud?
Yes it is VERY loud.
I can also feel the 'pressure blast' on my face.

Did the POI change?
Yes.

Did it effect accuracy?
No.

Is it worth it?
Undecided.

Will it come off:
In my opinion it will never come off.
It was a REALLY tight fit and I used LOTS of Locktight.

Picture:
medium.MP4.Still01one3.jpg



Kick and Muzzle rise almost eliminated Video:
https://youtu.be/Lc7aDOzPWTo
 
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