Clamp-on Muzzle Brake on Remington 700 30-06

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Supp0rtLinux

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I have a Remington 700 SPS (ADL) in 30-06. Its unmodified thus far other than having a Zeiss scope put on it... meaning there is no front site... just a clean, smooth parkerized barrel. I was looking at muzzle brakes and found that NcStar sells two clamp-on style muzzle breaks. There's the AM44 and the AMSKS8. The AM44 is for a Mosin Nagant M44. The AMSKS8 is for an SKS. Both the M44 and the SKS are 30 calibers rifles (well, technically 7.62, but that's still .30 cal by everyone's measurements). I'm wondering if either of these might fit on the barrel of my 700? Problem is I can't find anywhere that lists the outer diameter of the barrel of my 700, nor the Nagant, nor the SKS and NcStar doesn't publish the inside diameter of their clamp-on brake. I can find them both on Amazon for $5 each plus $5 shipping... so for $15 I'm willing to take a little risk, but why spend the money if they won't fit. So I've got three questions for the forum:

1) Does anyone know the outer barrel diameters of an SKS or a Nagant or the Remington 700 SPS 30-06 and the inside diameters of one of the NcStar brakes?

2) Does anyone know if these brakes will fit onto my 700?

3) Perhaps as an alternative, does anyone of another clamp-on style brake that will work with my 700? I'm looking to avoid the gunsmithing, drilling, threading route

AM44: http://www.ncstar.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=234

AMSKSB: http://www.ncstar.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=238
 
Mitutoyos say 0.661 in. That's 16.79mm approximately.

Question: Why do you want a muzzle brake? I have that rifle exactly and it's no problem with a Limbsaver and 165gr Federals (just don't lean into it), and it's plenty loud already.
 
Thanks for the info. To be blunt, the "why" I want it isn't the issue... whether or not the parts would fit is the issue. I told my wife the same thing when I lifted my truck... it wasn't why I wanted to... it was which lift kit to use. :)

I have Remington's SuperCell recoil pad on it and typically shoot 150gr bullets w/o issue. However, at times I prefer to shoot 180gr or 220gr ammo which has a lot more kick. Secondly, my 14 year wants to use it (he's graduating from his .223), but with 180gr or 220gr its a bit too much kick for his frame. We use both in-ear and over the ear protection, so the extra noise of a brake isn't a problem... so I thought I'd install a brake to cut recoil for him, primarily. But I also wanted something removable since I wouldn't need the brake myself. $15 for a removal brake is a lot cheaper than buying him his own rifle or having my smith'ed with a threaded or permanent brake.
 
If you want to brake it spend the money and go the gunsmithing route. I wouldn't waste the money going clamp on unless it was designed for my rifle. If you don't get the bore of the brake to exactly match the bore of the rifle then there could be problems. Besides NC Star isn't exactly known for their "High Quality" products.
 
Near muzzle of barrel

Mosin Nagant (1891/30) .580

SKS (chinese) .549


Most barrels are tapered that's why those slip ons , clamp around front site.

I would not do it.
 
@Noyes - thank you very much. That's the sort of info I was looking for. Call me stupid, but those are in inches, right? ie: .580 or just over 1/2 of an inch?

Considering I have a hollow, synthetic stock, perhaps I should just epoxy in a recoil reducer and fill the rest with expanding foam...
 
Yes , inches.
Your welcome.

Than there's the effect of barrel harmonics and accuracy when adding weight to the muzzle.

If you tighted it too much , you could egg shape the barrel . Trying to get it to stay on a tapered barrel.

I try mounting a scope on a tapered barrel, using some of those shotgun extension mag. clamps.

Scratch the barrel to heck and back......:o:o:o:o:o
 
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I had the stock mine filled with lead shot for a while while I was getting used to it. It about doubled the rifle's weight and cut the recoil significantly. It was totally removable, too.
 
@LukeA - thanks. More and more I'm thinking a muzzle brake is not the way to go. A few extra pounds of weight isn't going to hurt me. I'm learning that muzzle breaks will **** off people near me at the range and realistically why practice with one if I'm going to take it off when hunting anyway (practice should simulate the real thing as much as possible). I'm reading too that some ranges actually prohibit muzzle breaks for the noise reason and removable ones for the risk reason. So perhaps a good recoil pad, combined with a mercury recoil reducer inside the butt of the stock with a few pounds of lead shot and the rest filled with expandable foam to stop it from moving around is the way to go...
 
Muzzle Brake

Two Things come to mind "Do it Right" "Don't Look for a Short-cut";)

You have quality Rifle(Rem. 700) and a Quality Scope (Zeiss).

Why would you want to put "Micky Mouse" Muzzle Brake on that may leave a, lasting reminder on your barrel, of your effort to reduce felt recoil.

I like taylorce1's idea, pay the Bucks to give it a professional look, and try not squeezing the rifle too tight. I let the rifle recoil as it may without fighting the motion.

Just one man's opinion... "O'B"
 
When I researched threads talking about mercury recoil reducers, I found that they're exactly as effective as an equal dead mass in the stock, but more expensive.
 
Is this what you are looking at? :

510UjL29XbL._SL500_AA280_.gif


You have a Zeiss scope and you want to junk up your rifle with that? Just man up and take the recoil.
 
@Abel - interesting... I was aware of this ammo, but was told it cost a bit more so I thought I'd go with the one time cost versus the recurring cost. To my surprise, its only a bit more expensive than the 150, 180, or 220 grain ammo also from Remington.
 
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