Chopped 20 gauge for squirrel?

M

Model12Win

Moderator
Hello all! I've got a 20 gauge H&R Pardner single shot shotgun coming in the mail to my local LGS. It's a NIB gun, and comes with a 26" barrel:

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When I get the gun, I am going to have the barrel cut to 18.5" and a new bead installed. I've got a 12 gauge Pardner single shot I had done up like this, and boy is it ever a sweet package. I always wanted a 20 gauge version in the same length, due to the heavy recoil from the 12 gauge I have.

I'm buying this as an all-purpose shotgun, it will serve as a bedside gun and as a range/woods blaster/plinker for the most part. But, I'm going to take up squirrel hunting this autumn and this shotgun will be my squirrel hunting gun. I am wondering though, will cutting it back to 18.5" make the shot spread to much for squirrel hunting?

I think the 18.5" barrel would be great for maneuvering in the thick brush around my area, but I'm worried it will affect the shot string in a negative way. I'm also worried that the reduced sight radius will reduce accuracy. I'd really like to eat some fried squirrel this year!!

So, what do you guys think? Will I still be able to successfully use this gun to harvest squirrel if I have it cut down? Should I just not do this?

Let me know guys, I'll have the gun in a few days and I need to know what to do. Thanks so much! :)
 
I'd leave it alone since your 12ga is already cut down.

By the way I picked up a 12 gauge H&R single shot not too long ago - OMG does have some recoil to it!
 
I've owned 4 NEF/H&R single shots myself. I'd be inclined to leave it around 20-22" for a longer sighting plane, better balance, better velocity, and less noise (not a huge difference in any of these, though).

Your effective range might be pretty limited when hunting squirrels with zero constriction. The 20 gauge Pardners are typically choked Modified, which I think is about right for squirrels.

This might seem like a lot of expense for a cheap gun, but if you're having a gunsmith chop the barrel and install a new bead, you might look into having the barrel threaded for choke tubes. The tapered barrel should definitely be thick enough once a few inches are cut from the muzzle end. Two or three choke tubes and your gun could be a lot more versatile than it would be with no choke.

Regarding recoil, I took the plastic butt-plate off one of my NEFs, sawed off about 1/2" of wood off the stock and put a SMALL Limbsaver slip-on recoil pad on the gun. didn't change the weight or length much at all, but it's certainly more comfortable, and I don't worry too much about slicing up the cheap, birch stock.
 
By the way I picked up a 12 gauge H&R single shot not too long ago - OMG does have some recoil to it!
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Does it have a synthetic and/or thumbhole stock?

The synthetics are light, which is bad to begin with.
Add bad ergonomics (such as the incorrect drop at the comb), and it gets even worse.
Go to the "tamer" (ironic name) thumbhole stock, and you're just as bad, of not worse off.


I have nasty birch stocks on mine (Remington-built, circa ~2011), and I much prefer them to any of the other options, even with the light weight and horrible finish (which is water-based!! :eek:).
 
I responded to your question on THR so I won't repeat here, but will respond to this.

Does it have a synthetic and/or thumbhole stock?

The synthetics are light, which is bad to begin with.
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This is a common misconception. When aftermarket synthetics from Gale McMillan and Chet Brown first became available to the public in the 1970's one of the advantages of their kevlar construction was lighter weight. Often anywhere from 1/2 to over a full pound lighter than a comparable wood stock from the factory, but with a price tag of $500-$700 currently. I paid $175 for my 1st Brown Precision in 1983, but it still cost as much as the rifle it went on.

Now that rifles and shotguns are coming from the factory with inexpensive injection molded plastic stocks most people just assume they are also lighter than wood. They are not. In fact if you actually weigh identical firearms with wood and an identical synthetic stock the plastic stock is 2-4 oz heavier in most cases. At best they will be exactly the same. In a few instances you'll find the plastic stock to be 2-4 oz lighter, but this is much less common. And nowhere near the 8-18oz weight reduction possible with a Kevlar stock.

H&R is vague with their listed weights and I've never actually weighed one. But they show 5-6 lbs for their wood stocked versions. They claim 6 lbs on the synthetic thumb hole version.
 
I had a 20 gauge single shot cut to minimum length many years ago. What a waste. About 15 yards was as far as it held a killing pattern for rabbit and squirrel. Recoil with anything beyond 7/8 oz field loads was unpleasant.
 
Now that rifles and shotguns are coming from the factory with inexpensive injection molded plastic stocks most people just assume they are also lighter than wood. They are not. In fact if you actually weigh identical firearms with wood and an identical synthetic stock the plastic stock is 2-4 oz heavier in most cases.
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I can't speak for all synthetic stocks, but I have a Choate synthetic stock and forend on one of my single shots, and it's definitely lighter than the birch stock set on another gun.
 
"...shot spread too much for squirrel hunting..." Nope. You will have to pattern it with whatever ammo you plan on using after applying the pipe cutter, but most of the time the wad will hold the shot together just enough.
Cut my 870 to 18 3/8" long ago. No choke was no fuss for tree rats.
"...a full choke..." Blow Rocky into a red mist.
Always thought an 18" or so single shot would make a good deer gun.
 
This is a common misconception. When aftermarket synthetics from Gale McMillan and Chet Brown first became available to the public in the 1970's one of the advantages of their kevlar construction was lighter weight. (...)

Now that rifles and shotguns are coming from the factory with inexpensive injection molded plastic stocks most people just assume they are also lighter than wood. They are not. In fact if you actually weigh identical firearms with wood and an identical synthetic stock the plastic stock is 2-4 oz heavier in most cases. At best they will be exactly the same. In a few instances you'll find the plastic stock to be 2-4 oz lighter, but this is much less common. And nowhere near the 8-18oz weight reduction possible with a Kevlar stock.

H&R is vague with their listed weights and I've never actually weighed one. But they show 5-6 lbs for their wood stocked versions. They claim 6 lbs on the synthetic thumb hole version.
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It may be a common misconception for some firearms.

But, it is not a misconception with the H&Rs.
The Birch stock (just the butt stock) averages 1.4 lbs.
The standard synthetic butt stock weighs 1 lb.
The Survivor butt stock (large storage compartment) weighs 1.3 lbs.
The 'Tamer' butt stock weights 1.2 lbs.
I don't have a weight for the thumbhole laminate stock. It is heavier than birch, but the ergonomics are terrible.

Even with a similar weight, or the same weight as the birch stocks, the thumbhole stocks (laminate, 'Survivor', and 'Tamer') have terrible ergonomics. Most people still complain about more perceived recoil - and cheek slap is a common problem.


(It isn't a misconception with Marlin X7 stocks, either. The difference between wood and synthetic is sometimes THREE pounds.)

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Overall, I find H&R's (previously) advertised weights to be a rough estimate. ...Somewhere in the ballpark of 1/2 pound, or so. :rolleyes:
My .444 Marlin Handi-Rifle, for example, was advertised as 6.2 lb by H&R.
However, mine weights just 6 lb 4 oz with a scope, rings, scope base, sling, and ammunition carrier on the butt.
I know that weight very well, because one of my handloads launches a 437 gr bullet at 1,950 fps. With a 6.3 lb rifle, it's .416 Rigby / .450 Nitro class recoil.
 
I'm getting mixed results on this guys.

Some say to not do it for sure, others say it will be fine. I REALLY love how awesomely compact and handy these guns are when cut down, but want to be sure I'll still have a capable squirreler when it's all said and done.

More input please!!

PS: What's a good 20 gauge squirrel load?
 
Whatever the gun is choked for at the factory, you are going to make it a cyl bore gun once you cut the barrel back. Im not thinking an open choked 20ga will give the pattern density you need for Squirrels at any reasonable distance.

Id pattern it before i cut it and see what kind of range you can make kills on Squirrels as is.
 
Shortened open bore barrels are great on close quail and rabbits . Same would go for close up squirrels . But in tree tops the tuff little critters are hard to kill .
 
It takes a 20 gauge with a full choke to reach up into the tree tops with enough pattern density to do any good.
 
Good 20-ga load for squirrels is 7/8 or 1 ounce of #6 lead with a mod or full choke (maybe #5 1 oz for full choke). I would not cut the barrel down, producing a cylinder choke, if it is to be used for squirrels.
 
Tried using my 20 ga for tree rats as a kid. Found the pellets wouldn't even penetrate their hide on many of the longer shots. Went back to the trusty .22 after one outing. Never used the 20 for those critters again.
 
I've shot a lot of squirrels with 20 gauge and 7/8-1 ounce of #6 even in the tallest trees but using a full choke NOT cylinder bore. Like I said before, 15 yards with the chopped barrel.
 
I'm going to echo everyone else and say don't cut it for squirrels. That said, a second barrel from a gun show, internet, wherever wouldn't cost much. In fact I think in my parts you can still buy a used H&R for $80.
 
You could cut it down and if it doesn't work for and additional $55 you can send it to the guy people recommend on here and get a screw in choke installed.
 
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