Choosing a powder

cdoc42

New member
I recall a thread or two from new handloaders asking how to choose a powder, so I thought I'd share an approach that I use.

I have a Sako in .270 for which I need to work up a load. I had used RE-19 with a Speer 150gr Deep Curl (not boron nitride coated) and got a 0.7" 3-shot 100yd group. But I want to work up a Hornady 150gr Spire and a Nosler 150gr Bal.Tip as well.

There are "Relative Burning Rate" lists of available powders. The one I have lists 149 powders from fastest to slowest. Now recognize these are "relative" not absolute rates of burning speed- it will just give us a rough guide to use. I have read where a change in lot numbers might also change the relative burning rate, but I'm thinking that might cause IMR4831 to change places with the one above or below it, not a greater jump up or down on the list. But newer, updated lists, might answer that question.

Anyway, RE-19 on my list is 123/149. I'll use that with the Hornady and Nosler bullets. I'll work from start to maximum loads with each one. But on the chance that it won't do as well as I'd like, I'll then pick a slightly slower powder (since we have a relatively heavy bullet for a .270), and H4831 (128/149) or Win780 (130/149) would be my next choices. This, of course, all depends on what you have in your inventory of powders. After 40 years of reloading 18 calibers, I've accumulated 37 powders to experiment with. If you're just getting started maybe you can share powders in some fashion with a reloading friend.

I just recognized that I already had a powder (RE-19) to start with, which may not answer a newbie question about how to start from scratch! My approach there is to look at the Hodgdon reloading website under the caliber and bullet weight that I'm working on, and start with whatever powder gives me the maximum velocity with the lowest pressure (just don't mix CUP and PSI as a guide). I hope this helps someone out!
 
Interesting! I'm still entering into the handloading world.
Anyone want to share their burn rate lists? I'm sure I could google it, but maybe some of you have already researched it and would like to share...
 
The 270 Winchester is the first caliber I reloaded for back in 1973, and remains one of the three I have the most experience with, and currently still load and shoot often. Which leads me to ask this question, cdoc42: How long is the barrel on your Sako? I think it's interesting that you are choosing 150 grain bullets. My rifle prefers 150 grain bullets as well. I shoot a lot of 130, 140, and 150 grain bullets, with a fairly wide selection of powders. I have some favorites.....
 
I try to pick a powder that has a compressed max charge for the heaviest bullet I plan on shooting through a bottleneck rifle cartridge.

I like full or mostly full cases for consistent ignition, and generally you can find pretty good accuracy around there. It isn't a surefire method, but it is a method.

Jimro
 
Pathfinder, the Sako has a 22 inch barrel and out of 20 different bullets in 130-140- and 150 grain it seems to prefer only Remington Core-Lok in 130gr, but I'm not impressed with the group (o.k. for hunting, though). I'm now experimenting with powders and the 150gr bullet because my original Model 700 shoots less than a 1-inch group at 100 yards with a 150gr Hornady spire, and the round nose, believe it or not, hits at 100 yards exactly where the Spire does. They separate at 200 yards. But the Sako has a L-o-n-g throat. The Hornady 150gr measures 2.960" ogive to base when seated 0.015" from the rifling. The Model 700 measures 2.821". That may explain my difficulty in getting a satisfactory group.

My son has a .270 Winchester model 70 that only prefers a Speer 130gr but not the boat-tail- just flat base.

As a nostalgic move (at least that's what I told my wife), I bought the new Rem Model 700 in stainless because my very first rifle in 1967 was a Model 700 BDL and I wanted a "first" and "last" in my possession...although I may be lying since I'm harboring thoughts about the Kimber 84 in 6.5 Creedmore.

Anyway, the new .270 prefers a Hornady SST in 140gr.

I find it hard to figure out why they all have a different preference, but I've read that happens.
 
I have two go to books. Hornady and Sierra.

Both have wide bullet choices and both list a number of powders that worked with those bullets.

I go with those.
 
For easy loading plinking/milk-jug, off-hand practice ammo, I usually use cheaper 130 grain bullets with any leftover powder that comes handy, even ball/spherical propellants, whatever. When I want the best for my current Winchester model 70 rifle, it will get stoked with 150 grain Nosler Partitions using Norma N-205 powder and the muzzle velocity will be right about 3,000 fps. N-205 has been discontinued for decades, but there is a replacement for it from Norma called Norma MRP. I have some but haven't had the time to experiment with it yet. I'm not yet out of the N-205, which has been outstanding in my rifle.
 
Thanks cdoc, I didn't realize it was a published document. I figured it would be some hard to find piece of information. Thank you for the link.
 
I love Reloader powders... my Weatherby VG in 270 likes 150 gr. Sierra Game Kings on top of RL 22. It also shoots my stash of old 150 gr. Nosler Solid Base bullets well with RL 22.
 
So, I was just up at BiMart because they were having a $2-off sale on all powders. I was shocked at the price of the Reloder-series of powders. They are all about $10 more per pound than Hodgdon, Winchester, and IMR powders. Even on sale, they are a bit over $30. I have run Reloder 22 in my 270 with 150 grain bullets and it's just OK but not great. I would rather go with H-4831 at 2/3 the price. But I understand paying that much more if it provides vastly superior results, especially in the accuracy department. Except it didn't for me.
I found that the accuracy of most loads tested went to absolute dismal at 300 yards in my 270. But the load with Norma N-205 produced reliable 5 shot groups well under M.O.A. at that range. That's when it's worth paying a premium price for the powder. Of course, you don't know it until you try it.
 
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