Choke Questions

C

Clevinger

New member
I have a new Benelli M2, as I've previously posted. This is my first shotgun, and I have some questions regarding choke:

1. I plan on mostly shooting clay pigeons. Is the modified choke suitable for this?

2. Even though three of the chokes are approved for steel shot, is it still best to avoid steel shot to reduce wear-and-tear on the gun? In other words, is shooting steel shot even through approved chokes hard on the gun over time?

3. I'd mostly just like to use the modified choke, which is approved for steel shot. Is there any 12 gauge ammo (besides slugs) that I shouldn't shoot through this?

4. When you are changing chokes, what lubricant due you use? Are Remington oil and Break-Free CLP good for this?

Sorry, if these are dumb questions. I'm learning. :o
 
1. I plan on mostly shooting clay pigeons. Is the modified choke suitable for this?

2. Even though three of the chokes are approved for steel shot, is it still best to avoid steel shot to reduce wear-and-tear on the gun? In other words, is shooting steel shot even through approved chokes hard on the gun over time?

3. I'd mostly just like to use the modified choke, which is approved for steel shot. Is there any 12 gauge ammo (besides slugs) that I shouldn't shoot through this?

4. When you are changing chokes, what lubricant due you use? Are Remington oil and Break-Free CLP good for this?

Sorry, if these are dumb questions. I'm learning.
Click to expand...

1) Depends on what kind of clay pigeon shooting you plan on doing. Modified is a bit tight for skeet, a bit loose for lead shot in trap and probably just right for most sporting clays. (steel shot shoots about one choke size tighter than lead, e.g. a modified choke with steel is similar to a full choke with lead)

2) If the choke is OK for steel, shoot steel whenever it is required. Don't shoot it if it's not.

3) Modified choke is OK to shoot with any load I can think of.

4) Best is anti seize, but it's messy. If you get it on your clothing it's almost impossible to get out. It's best for chokes that are going to be installed and left in for a long time. Grease is a close second and I'd use it instead of anti seize if you plan on handling the chokes a lot. Any oil is a distant third, but better than nothing.

You've posted some good beginner's questions. You should see the dumb ones. :D
 
The ONLY thing you want to use steel shot for is where it is required by law (generally waterfowl hunting). For any other application, lead is far superior.
 
1. A modified will be appropriate for most mid-range clay target presentations. For close range targets, like skeet, a less constrictive choke is appropriate. For longer range targets, like handicap trap, a more constrictive choke works best.

2. Avoid steel shot when not mandated.

3. Shooting sabot-type slugs with a smooth bore (any choke) is typically a waste of money.

4. I use a lube specifically formulated for choke tube threads.
 
For what its worth - I use Break Free to lube my choke tubes / and the threads in the barrel. ( I used it this morning / after I cleaned the 20ga O/U that I shot yesteday - and removed the chokes, etc.. ) ...

The way I think about which Choke to use ...is I want an effective 30" pattern at the kill range...so I adjust roughly as follows....

Cyclinder - under 20 yards
Skeet 20 - 25 yards
Improved Cyclinder 25 - 30 yards

Modified ( 30 - 40 yds ). Ex: In 16 Yard Trap - target moves downrange and you want to kill it as its still rising at 30 - 35 yds before it levels off or starts to drop. You stand 16 yds from house / target is about 20 yds out from house when you kill it.

Improved Modified 40 - 45 yards
Full .... over 45 yards ...

But as you can see - there is some overlap / so if I want to error, I tighten it up a little vs loosen it up a little. I don't want to shoot a Modified at 50 yards and have 12" holes in the pattern where a target can escape or fly thru it. I don't subscribe to the idea that shooting Tighter chokes makes you a better shotgunner either. I think it makes the average shooter worse ....because a tighter choke defeats the purpose of an effective sized shotgun pattern - and by making it artifically tighter ...you lose some of the benefit of feeling the lead / taking a smooth shot / and misses can get into your head. Where if you use the correct choke for the distance of the kill --- you can still smoke a target if you center it ..and it gives you good calm feedback. If I chip a target ...its next to impossible to be certain if I was too far in front ..or behind...or high...or low ... or which side of the pattern hit the bird ...
 
I have used some form of oil, but have switched to a grease - whether you get something "gun specific" (and typically more money) like Shooter's Choice, or you go to the auto parts store and get a can of never seize, the results are the same - you want to easily remove the chokes, but not have it so easy they start to back out on their own - when shooting clays, hand tighten between stations often until you are certain they aren't starting to back out.

If they do start and do not check them, bad Ju-Ju can happen, up to and including injury and blown out barrels.

Depending on your clay game, an open choke, a middle range choke. and a distance choke will cover everything

Open chokes include Cylinder, Skeet, Improved Cylinder
Moderate chokes start with Improved Cylinder, then Light Modified and Modified
Distance chokes include Modified, Improved Modified, and the various types of Full

Skeet is typically shot with a skeet choke (.005)
16 yard trap singles can use anything from IC (.010), LM (.015), to M (.020), although most opt for Modified
27 yard handicap folks seem to like Improved Modified (.025) and Full(.030)

Sporting clays and 5-stand folks tend to utilize a wide variety of constrictions, but many of us tend to stick with those in the IC, LM, M, IM range. Since you get pairs at every station, the ability to utilize two different chokes to help in breaking targets set by folks with malice aforethought in their hearts is generally beneficial.....;)

The constrictions on Full can range from .030 to .040 depending on maker and bore diameter

As to steel - typically MUCH more expensive than lead, so unless where you live mandates it, don't bother.

Before buying any new chokes, try whatever came with gun - if they pattern well and shoot to POI/POA successfully, use them. If there is a constriction you want to add, they are available from a variety of makers
 
"Best is anti seize, but it's messy. If you get it on your clothing it's almost impossible to get out. It's best for chokes that are going to be installed and left in for a long time. Grease is a close second and I'd use it instead of anti seize if you plan on handling the chokes a lot. Any oil is a distant third, but better than nothing."

I googled "anti-seize" and got some options. Can you link the product and brand you would recommend for this?
 
Ordinary spark plug anti-sieze will work just fine and is cheap. Use just a tiny dab and wipe your fingers with a paper towel before touching anything you don't want greased up.
 
Modified is perfect for clays. You may want to try the I.C. if you are having trouble hitting with the modified. Steel is for waterfowl unless you are hunting on some public lands that require steel for all bird hunting (california comes to mind) I use regular grease on the threads of my choke tubes.
 
Steel is for waterfowl unless you are hunting on some public lands that require steel for all bird hunting (california comes to mind) I use regular grease on the threads of my choke tubes.​
This is a common misconception. There hasn't been a steel shot requirement. The regulations prohibited the use of lead shoot, and steel shot is one way of meeting the lead-free requirement. It may be the cheapest lead-free shot, but it is far from being the best performing.
IINM, the CA lead-free requirement is for ammunition used within the Condor Range area.
 
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