Checking for a proper fitting cylinder?

R

Rich357

New member
I had thought, when buying a revolver, it was a good idea to check the rotational play in the cylinder. With the trigger back in firing position and the hammer down, I though it was a good idea to try and rotate the cylinder back and forth against the "dog" to see if there was much "slop". However, recently I was told by a S&W rep. that I shouldn't worry about the rotational play but should check for forward and backward play in the cylinder. It seems that in either case the rounds could be misaligned with the bore.

Any suggestions on right way to check the cylinder?

Thanks,
Rich
 
Rotational play is not a significant test on most revolvers. The older Colt's, like the Python have a design that does lockup the cylinder without any play. In these guns, the mechanism must be properly adjusted, since no movement is possible during firing. This lockup is one reason the older Colt's are noted for accuracy.

However, most guns, like S&W and Ruger depend on some play to allow the cylinder to align it'self during actual firing.

Therefore, most modern design guns will have rotational play.

In all revolvers, the presence of end shake, or back and forth movement is critical. The less the better.
 
Thanks, Dfariswheel.

Should you check for end shake when the trigger is pulled back and the hammer down in the firing position?

Rich
 
No, you test for end shake with the hammer down and trigger forward. (Action at rest)
Just grip the cylinder and attempt to move it straight back and forth.
Don't mistake some side play for end shake.

On a revolver in good shape you should be able to detect little if any discernable movement.
End shake correction on S&W revolvers is reasonably easy. Colt's require a trip to the factory or a GOOD Colt qualified 'smith.
 
Hi, Dfariswheel,

Those old Colts will lock up tight, but that can sometimes lead to another problem. If there is wear on the cylinder bolt or an enlarged frame window, the second pawl on the hand can actually force the cylinder beyond the proper position and out of alignment in the other direction.

Jim
 
Yah Jim, that's one big reason the old Colt's are gone now. Everything has to be in proper adjustment or it all breaks down.

The other brands of revolvers leave enough tolerance in the method of operation that things can just align themselves.
The Colt's have to be perfect.
Of course, when they are, you have a very accurate revolver.

This level of fitting must be done by hand, and that costs money. Colt just couldn't compete with the other brands. That's the reason Colt developed the worlds first "machine fitted" revolver, the Colt Trooper Mark III "J" frame. Most of the "J" frame parts are, as far as possible, "drop in".

With the exeption of S&W, the rest of the world has copied Colt's idea: "machine fitted" revolvers that have acceptable, but not notable accuracy. The difference is, Colt held high standards even in the "J" frame guns, which were very accurate. Everybody else has a "good enough" approach.
 
"However, recently I was told by a S&W rep. that I shouldn't worry about the rotational play but should check for forward and backward play in the cylinder."

The reason he said that is because SW no longer does a decent job of fitting the actions on many new guns (I just went wheelgun shopping and almost puked). The lockup on the 686 I got back in 1997 was DEAD tight, as it should be on a new gun. BTW: the "rotational play" increases gradually with time as the stop latch wears the frame opening and the hand wears the frame slot, so getting a new gun with "side roll" is like buying one with 10k - 20k of firing wear (IMO).

There should be not more than .001" end shake on a new cylinder (front to rear play).
 
Yep, that thread was so good it is now available in the TFL Library in a format suitable for printing and framing. :)
 
Good reference. I liked one part in particular:

"Taurus considers .007" "still in spec" (sigh)."

Wow, times have changed. I just saw a brand new SW with a .013" b/c gap. I also read a post about a guy who sent his SW back to the factory and they returned the gun saying ".012" is in spec". The old spec was .004" to .010" (worst case), but a new gun should be about .004 to .006".
 
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