I'm trying to gather some practice or free checkering patterns so I can build up some confidence by practicing some checkering before I checker my stock. Does anyone know of any on the web? I was thinking of making my own as well, like a simple H-diamond for the fore-end. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Checkering Pattern?
- Thread starter skud007
- Start date
Welcome to The FiringLine!
As far as I know, there aren't any checkering patterns online...
There are, from time to time, excellent hi res pictures of outstanding checkering jobs at the various gun auction pages...
Your best bet is to get one of the old beaten Mauser stocks that are being practically given away during sporterizations- someone had some nasty oily ones at the show for 3 for $10!
Due to the variations in dimensions of the forearm and pistol grip, the patterns might not fit anyway. It is better to just draw your pattern on the wood with a white or yellow pencil or a fine black ball point which will engrave the wood slightly (my experiment). Use your flexible ruler, your checkering layout diamond and maybe some masking tape to keep the lines straight...
Checkering is quite a skill and requires extraordinary patience as well as some specialized tooling and a checkering cradle minimum...
As far as I know, there aren't any checkering patterns online...
There are, from time to time, excellent hi res pictures of outstanding checkering jobs at the various gun auction pages...
Your best bet is to get one of the old beaten Mauser stocks that are being practically given away during sporterizations- someone had some nasty oily ones at the show for 3 for $10!
Due to the variations in dimensions of the forearm and pistol grip, the patterns might not fit anyway. It is better to just draw your pattern on the wood with a white or yellow pencil or a fine black ball point which will engrave the wood slightly (my experiment). Use your flexible ruler, your checkering layout diamond and maybe some masking tape to keep the lines straight...
Checkering is quite a skill and requires extraordinary patience as well as some specialized tooling and a checkering cradle minimum...
Thanks for the welcome!
If fact thats what I'm going to be checkering a Mauser that I have sporterized with a nice walnut stock! That will be after alot of practice though. I do have the old stock. Like you said that would be good practice material.
I have the checkering tools and have already started just some freehand practice to "feel the tool". I do need to make or get a cradel though.
I think I'm gonna try to make up my own pattern and use some of the techniques and tips you gave me. The ball point pen sounds good. On my first attempt I tried to use a sharp knife for the outline and it didn't work too well.
Thanks for your input and I'm looking forward to this forum!
If fact thats what I'm going to be checkering a Mauser that I have sporterized with a nice walnut stock! That will be after alot of practice though. I do have the old stock. Like you said that would be good practice material.
I have the checkering tools and have already started just some freehand practice to "feel the tool". I do need to make or get a cradel though.
I think I'm gonna try to make up my own pattern and use some of the techniques and tips you gave me. The ball point pen sounds good. On my first attempt I tried to use a sharp knife for the outline and it didn't work too well.
Thanks for your input and I'm looking forward to this forum!
Skud,
Save yourself some time & trouble, and go to www.brownells.com ( think that's the address for Brownells Inc.) and get a copy of 'Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks' by Monty Kennedy. You will be awed by the work of guys like Dale Goens (my hero) and Leonard Mews and Mark Shellhammer. Loads of tips and tricks on how to get those lines straight, layout, etc. Worth every penny.
Save yourself some time & trouble, and go to www.brownells.com ( think that's the address for Brownells Inc.) and get a copy of 'Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks' by Monty Kennedy. You will be awed by the work of guys like Dale Goens (my hero) and Leonard Mews and Mark Shellhammer. Loads of tips and tricks on how to get those lines straight, layout, etc. Worth every penny.
Checkering Tips
Ditto the above on Monty Kennedy's book. He includes several patterns ranging from simple to complex in the book.
I have found that using a transparency pen (buy a pack of 4-8 at Office Max or the like) is excellent for initial layout of a pattern on a stock. The ink wipes off with a damp Kleenex if you don't like what you have drawn. It is also much more visible than a grease pencil, easier to clean up and change errors, and it won't penetrate the finish to stain the wood.
A piece of a flexible measuring tape makes a good flexible rule for checkering. I keep a couple of pieces about 12 to 18 inches long in my box.
I cut better on the pull stroke than the push stroke. I do layout the lines better pushing, however, so I use my spacer on the push stroke. Just do what feels right to YOU.
You can practice on military stocks, but they tend to be soft and different from the handle that you really want to do "for real." Boyds ( www.boydboys.com ) will sell you a practice stock for less than $10 that you can sand and finish with the same finish that you used on your project. Practice on that finish. It will save you some heartache later.
Use a checkering cradle. You can make one, or the Brownells cradle works fine for very little money. You need a way to hold the cradle. A bench vise works OK but is not always super accessible. I made a rig with pipe to hold mine. If I ever get a chance I'll post a picture.
Good luck!
Clemson
Ditto the above on Monty Kennedy's book. He includes several patterns ranging from simple to complex in the book.
I have found that using a transparency pen (buy a pack of 4-8 at Office Max or the like) is excellent for initial layout of a pattern on a stock. The ink wipes off with a damp Kleenex if you don't like what you have drawn. It is also much more visible than a grease pencil, easier to clean up and change errors, and it won't penetrate the finish to stain the wood.
A piece of a flexible measuring tape makes a good flexible rule for checkering. I keep a couple of pieces about 12 to 18 inches long in my box.
I cut better on the pull stroke than the push stroke. I do layout the lines better pushing, however, so I use my spacer on the push stroke. Just do what feels right to YOU.
You can practice on military stocks, but they tend to be soft and different from the handle that you really want to do "for real." Boyds ( www.boydboys.com ) will sell you a practice stock for less than $10 that you can sand and finish with the same finish that you used on your project. Practice on that finish. It will save you some heartache later.
Use a checkering cradle. You can make one, or the Brownells cradle works fine for very little money. You need a way to hold the cradle. A bench vise works OK but is not always super accessible. I made a rig with pipe to hold mine. If I ever get a chance I'll post a picture.
Good luck!
Clemson